Tiger Tales

Wizards of Oz

Australia's food talent has arrived in a big way. The prestigious San Pellegrino food guide claims that Australia now boasts more chefs in its world top 50 than any other place in the Southern Hemisphere. Then there's its long list of food festivals - Melbourne holds two world-class food gatherings each year. Its Wine and Food Festival, which attracts topnotch gourmets, marks its 20th anniversary in March. René Redzepi of Denmark's noma - touted as the world's best restaurant - is among those set to visit. Sydney recently hosted the Crave Food Festival, while Perth and Brisbane offer dishes worthy of the gourmet greats.

But why is this food revolution happening now? Rising star Regan Porteous, executive chef at Sydney's Toko, has this to say: "People are much better educated when it comes to food now. Along with increased international travel and with Australasian chefs gaining experience abroad before returning home, the media has had an enormous influence on developing the food movement over the past ten years. This is an extremely exciting time where you see a lot of young chefs challenging their more established peers."

There's a twist though. Unlike culinary capitals France and Italy, Australia is moving away from fine dining. Epicurean techniques remain, but they've been married with more basic food. "Australians are seeing a lot more creativity in their dining scene," says chef Paul Wilson, winner of the 2010 Epicure Professional Excellence Award. "More diverse menus are being implemented and architecture and design are playing a big role in the fit-out of restaurants."

What's more, never before has so-called street food approached the level of gourmet fare, thanks in no small part to the fact that more chefs are drawing inspiration from all over the world. "The future of dining in Australia has never been brighter, as we have so much talent and great produce," Paul says. "We have so many young chefs... full of ambition and inspiration, who aren't afraid to go for it and take risks."

SIX OF THE BEST

ATTICA, MELBOURNE
Ben Shewry is undoubtedly a member of Australia's culinary A-list, having been featured in many food guides. He heads up this remarkable combination of fine dining and relaxed surrounds. www.attica.com.au

THE LITTLE TRUFFLE, GOLD COAST
This eatery capitalises on the coast's wealth of seafood, and combines it with some interesting innovations from its avant-garde chef, who creates delights such as zucchini flowers stuffed with a salmon mousse and scallops with black pudding. www.littletruffle.com.au

JAMIE'S ITALIAN, SYDNEY
Australia is such hot property that even celebrated British chef Jamie Oliver is cashing in on the craze. His new restaurant attracts round-the-block queues most days. www.jamiesitalian.com.au

MARQUE, SYDNEY
Considered one of Australia's finest chefs, Mark Best heads this eating establishment that specialises in blazing new trails for Aussie cuisine. One of only two Sydney restaurants with three AGFG Chef Hats. www.marquerestaurant.com.au

ROCKPOOL BAR & GRILL, PERTH
A master of gastronomic engineering, Rockpool consistently features in lists of Australia's best restaurants, due in no small part to its fine cuts of meat, including Wagyu beef dishes. www.rockpool.com

THE LAZY LOBSTER, GOLD COAST
The year-round fresh seafood menu here includes swordfish steak with roast garlic olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a truffle mash - a dish that is, quite simply, without peer. www.lazylobsterqld.com.au