Tiger Tales

Viva Bris Vegas

In January last year, a series of floods swept through 70 towns across Queensland, killing 35 people, affecting more than 200,000 residents and causing A$1 billion in damage. A year on, Christine Retschlag returns to the Queensland capital of Brisbane - one of the worst-hit spots - to discover a city that has not only survived, but thrived

The jacaranda trees have scattered their purple confetti over the streets of Brisbane, a sure sign that summer's on its way. Throngs of Aussies spill from bars, their bodies bronzed and their eyes crinkled from the harsh sun and a few too many laughs. Amid the carnival atmosphere for which the Queensland capital is famous, one "Sheila" - as women are sometimes referred to in these parts - remarks to no one in particular: "She's got a Queensland bum." To the commentator, the bum in question is evidence that its rather robust female owner is from convict stock.

Welcome to Brisbane - Brissie or BrisVegas to locals. It's just as well that Brisbane is as brash as she is bold. For this is a tale of a river and a river city.

Of mangroves and mud. Plenty of mud. Over at the Maritime Museum at South Bank - the former home of Expo 88 - the shocking-pink boat belonging to Jessica Watson, the planet's youngest round-the-world sailor, sits in dry dock. Had Ella's Pink Lady been in town last January, it would've been a different story. Residents watched as weeks of torrential rains culminated in vicious floods that claimed lives, homes and businesses. But despite the deluge, Aussie irreverence prevailed. One shop owner, who was forced to abandon her inner-city store amid rising floodwaters, left a note on the front window which simply stated: "Back in 5 metres". A sassy young suburbanite dealt with the loss of her home by donning a sailor's cap and inking a permanent tattoo on her stomach to show where the floodwaters peaked.

It took the best part of last year for Brisbane to find her feet again. And the recovery work continues. One of the most iconic images of the floods was of the ironically named riverside restaurant Drift breaking from its Toowong moorings and being swept downriver. It has yet to reopen. Moving TV footage showed the snapping off of a 300m section of the 850m-long floating walkway at New Farm, and of one brave tugboat owner pushing it into the middle of the river to prevent it from smashing into the Gateway Bridge, a crucial artery. One eerie afternoon saw every CityCat ferry sailing out of the city into the relative safety of Moreton Bay. For hard-hit Brisbanites, it was yet another grey day.

A catastrophe of the order of the infamous 1974 floods - which many believed could never recur - was under way. People filled their bathtubs with fresh water, shops ran out of basics, office workers were evacuated.

The long nights were humid, lonely and quiet. Even the kookaburras stopped laughing. But eventually, the rains ended and the mud was mopped up. It took A$70 million just to rebuild the six CityCat terminals that were destroyed by the floods.

On a stunning summer afternoon in the present day, it's hard to believe the disaster ever took place. Stork-like ibises strut along the Queen Street Mall like supermodels.

At South Bank's Streets Beach, bikini-clad tourists show off their bodies beautiful. Abseilers descend the Kangaroo Point cliffs. Bull sharks patrol the river and peregrine falcons perch on high-rises.

Brisbane is a land of sunshine and smiles, of long lunches and loud laughter. It's the mining boom they're talking about here these days, not mud. But some businesses, like the aptly named Jellyfish Restaurant, wear their flood scars with pride. A design feature of the rebuilt riverside eatery shows how floodwaters almost touched the ceiling. Over at West End, The Gunshop Café - whose 700 sandbags were unable to stop the rising water - it's business as usual, albeit with "new" floorboards older than the 98-year-old building itself.

"We had so many people helping out the next day.Brisbane people just take these things with a grain of salt. S**t happens, you just get over it and open up again," one restaurateur says. "Queenslanders just suck it up."

It's a similar story around the corner at Freestyle Tout, a restaurant best known for its delectable desserts. Life is sweet again in Brisbane.

It's especially so for Kym Carter, general manager of the Stamford Plaza, whose underground passageway was flooded, cutting all electricity and water to the hotel and inviting unwanted squatters in the form of poisonous brown snakes. "There was basically mass panic in the city," Kym recalls. "Every flight that had a spare seat was booked and you could not get a hire car for love or money. We just had to do what we had to do. We were changing our priorities every minute. We were not able to save the wine cellar, which contained $300,000 worth of wine. Our number-one focus was the safety and security of staff and guests. We were totally inundated. We were dead in the water. We had plenty of those 'bloody hell' moments."

It took months before the hotel - the nearest to the river - became fully operational again, but Kym believes it would have taken much longer had it not been for the Brissie backbone. "It's the Queensland spirit - you never say die," he says. "You should have seen the amount of offers of help we received. Some of our major corporate clients turned up in their gumboots to help us shovel s**t. The amount of support was unbelievable. We're now 100% back to normal. Business is booming in Brisbane."

Signs of optimism have emerged over at South Bank as well, which has not only rebuilt its iconic inner-city beach and pools, but has seen new additions to its dining scene. At the south end of the park, a clutch of swanky new riverside restaurants has emerged, as if in defiance of any future flooding. Adam Barton, who owns Cove Bar and Dining - an oyster, Champagne and cocktail bar - says the time is right to once again enjoy the city's laid-back lifestyle. "We are now trying to embrace the river itself," he says.

Take a 90-minute cruise with River City Cruises aboard the MV Neptune - which resumed service last October - and see how this city has grown. At New Farm Park, mums and their kids picnic beside what is thought to be the world's largest rose garden. Young lovers congregate in the Botanic Gardens, which were home to Queensland's first sugar-cane crop. Riverside apartments occupying sites where the local Turrbal people once fished and held ceremonies now fetch as much as A$8 million.

In the city's heart, development agency Brisbane Marketing cites evidence of the once-stricken metropolitan area's full recovery. It lists Wintergarden's A$100 million redevelopment, more than 1,000 events, the A$13 million Hilton Hotel redevelopment and a raft of new top brands at QueensPlaza, including Queensland's first Chanel store. More than 4,000 businesses - including five major retail centres, 700 domestic and international retailers, and more than 200 restaurants and bars - now ply their trade in the city, which attracts 26 million visitors annually.

Queensland's longest-serving premier, the late Joh Bjelke-Petersen, once claimed that you could measure the wealth of a city by the number of construction cranes in the sky. Using the Bjelke-Petersen barometer as a guide, things are looking very good indeed. Yes, Brisbane is back in business. Bums and all.

WHERE TO STAY: SIX OF BRISSIE'S BEST HOTELS

The Emporium - this multi award-winning hotel on the edge of Fortitude Valley has brought a new art-deco edginess to the Brisbane accommodation scene. www.emporiumhotel.com.au

Sofitel - situated in the heart of the city above Central Station, this French brand brings a touch of class to the Queensland capital. www.sofitel.com

Stamford Plaza - the closest hotel to the river, it boasts terrific views and is adjacent to the Botanic Gardens. www.stamford.com.au

Marriott - also with superb river views, the Marriott is located in the central suburb of Fortitude Valley. www.marriott.com

Treasury Casino & Hotel - as the name suggests, this former Queensland treasury in the CBD boasts a casino and adjacent hotel. www.treasurybrisbane.com.au

Hilton - newly refurbished, the Hilton holds a prime position in the Queen Street Mall, making it a hit with shoppers. www.hilton.com/brisbane

WHERE TO EAT: SIX LEADING RESTAURANTS

Jellyfish Restaurant - serving sensational Queensland seafood and perched by the water at Riverside, Jellyfish ticks all the boxes. www.jellyfishrestaurant.com.au

The Gunshop Café - as the name suggests, this restaurant once sold firearms, but now serves modern Australian cuisine in intimate and eclectic surrounds at West End. www.thegunshopcafe.com

Freestyle Tout - best known for its decadent desserts, this West End restaurant, which has a twin sister in the Emporium precinct, also serves a range of savoury dishes. www.freestyletout.com.au

South Bank Surf Club - overlooking Street's Beach, this man-made, inner-city watering hole is devoid of surf, but there's plenty of seafood on offer at the restaurant. www.southbanksurfclub.com.au

Stokehouse - one of the newest additions to Brisbane's dining scene, the Stokehouse offers stunning riverfront views from its South Bank location and a menu inspired by its big brother in Melbourne. www.stokehouse.com.au

Breakfast Creek Hotel - select your own steak from the cold display and drink a beer "off the wood" - from a wooden keg - at this iconic Brisbane pub. www.breakfastcreekhotel.com.au

WHAT TO DO: SIX WAYS TO ENJOY YOURSELF

1 Climb the Story Bridge - for the best views of Brisbane, take a walk on the wild side and join an organised climb of the city's iconic bridge. www.storybridgeadventureclimb.com.au

2 Cruise the Brisbane River - join the crew at RiverCity Cruises and jump aboard the MV Neptune for a 90-minute journey upstream to learn of the city's past, present and future. www.rivercitycruises.com.au

3 Kayaking, climbing, paddling, prawns and more - for a real taste of the Brisbane River, head to Riverlife where, from a long list of adventures, you can choose to grab a kayak, climb the Kangaroo Point cliffs or finish off a day of paddling with prawns. www.riverlife.com.au

4 Take in a show - visit the Brisbane Powerhouse, home to live comedy, restaurants, bars, and photograph and art exhibitions. There's never a dull moment at this venue, which once supplied electricity for Brisbane's tram system. www.brisbanepowerhouse.org

5 Go Greek - explore the eclectic West End and its Greek heritage by visiting the multitude of restaurants, stores, and churches scattered around this precinct and chatting with the locals.

6 Admire Art - Brisbane's Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) is considered one of the finest in Australia, admired for its eye-catching display spaces and the quality of its exhibitions. www.qag.qld.gov.au