Tiger Tales

Sassy Singapore

Not so long ago, Singapore's creative class dwelled in the shadows of the city-state's towering high-rises. But an artistic boom is under way and the innovative flair in Asia's Little Red Dot has grown from a spark to a bonfire, says Sabrina Lee Mei

If Singapore were a woman she'd be cosmopolitan, cultured, complicated and warm, prone to the odd outburst but with long, blindingly sunny periods of grace. She'd be Ms Clean in the living room, a super-chef in the kitchen and a tiger in the boardroom. If Singapore were a woman she'd be a young and attractive package from head to toe. She'd slip easily into a short, snug A-line dress, accessorised with a designer bag, and her immaculately pedicured feet would fit perfectly into a pair of stilettos. While she'd dazzle with her looks alone, as you dug deeper you'd discover a raging shopaholic with a passion for exotic eats, a penchant for dancing, and a restless habit of looking for ways to reinvent herself. In essence, if Singapore were a woman, she'd be one sassy lass.

WONDERLAND FOR SHOPPERS

If there's one person who's synonymous with whatever's of the moment on this island, it's entrepreneur and style doyenne Tracy Phillips. Until recently, Phillips could be found during the week, busy typing away on her laptop at A Curious Teepee. This former part-café, part-concept store, displayed the latest well-designed accessories, apparel and oddities imported from around the world. Now, in a bid to take this creative concept even further, Phillips has taken A Curious Tepee online. After leaving a successful career at legendary club Zouk, Phillips has been busy pushing the boundaries of the local fashion retail industry by opening spaces like A Curious Teepee and organising events like Blueprint - Asia's first international fashion trade platform. And she's not alone.

Hot on her heels is Blackmarket. Founded by Jasmine Tuan and five friends, this store is dedicated to local indie labels as well as those from Thailand, Indonesia and Japan. Designs are eccentric and surprising. Expect beautifully crafted leather wallets, cube bags, asymmetrical dresses, nylon necklaces and scarves with attached gloves. Singaporeans love to stand out from the crowd and, as nothing in this store is mass-produced, shoppers typically revel in the one-of-a-kind quality of its offerings.

That said, there is a boutique in the heart of town that excites even the most well-travelled shopper. What started out as a nondescript boutique in Far East Plaza now calls the Mandarin Gallery home. Ambush caters to both male and female hipsters. On offer are Dita eyewear and creations from Japanese streetwear label Original Fake, quirky Eley Kishimoto and menswear brand Henrik Vibskov. Prices here are out of this world so be sure to bring the plastic.

Just a stone's throw away is Cathay Cineleisure Orchard, a cinema-equipped mall that's a must-visit for "sneakerheads". Once inside, take the escalator to the second floor and follow the signs to Leftfoot. This store, opened in 2002 by Singaporean Anthony Ho, was one of the first in town to bring in the freshest kicks from the around the world. Anthony has even collaborated with sneaker brand New Balance to come up with Asian-inspired designs and colours.

Another homegrown creative type who has captured the hearts of local and international buyers is Tara Thadani. Her unusual jewellery collection, Tsura, was inspired by the globetrotting designer's experiences living in Hong Kong, Singapore, the United States and the United Kingdom. They're available at Asiatique Collections, a boutique set amid the lush surroundings of Dempsey Hill.

ON THE CITY FRINGE

For a change of scenery, take the MRT to Lavender Station. Loysel's Toy Café is just ten minutes away. Situated in a refurbished warehouse on the idyllic Kallang riverside, this brunch hangout serves superb coffee, sandwiches and desserts. If you're keen to soak up some sun, step into the café's courtyard. At night, this space occasionally hosts rocking block parties.

If you like a bit of culture with your caffeine, The Pigeonhole in Chinatown regularly hosts gigs by homegrown DJs, along with live music performances and art shows. Local hip-hop outfit SIXX and melancholic crooner Nick Chim have played gigs here and if the promise of ear-pleasing tunes isn't enough of a lure, there's the coffee. Order a cup of the signature concoction: espresso mixed with steamed chocolate milk. A big plus is the free Wi-Fi and ample power outlets here. Also worth mentioning is the café's second-hand book collection. Brush up on your psychology with Carl Jung while sipping a beverage.

Yet another hole-in-the-wall for lovers of afternoon tea and cakes is Forty Hands. Hidden away on a quiet stretch of Tiong Bahru, this cool café exudes charm reminiscent of a Melbourne's quirky coffee shops and it serves a fantastic latte, to boot.

Across the street in this idyllic cul-de-sac is locally owned boutique BooksActually. Co-founded by bookmaker Kenny Leck, this haven for bibliophiles first opened its doors six years ago on Club Street before shifting to its current location. When he's not behind the counter, Kenny can typically be found at the back playing with his cat or at the front of the store ensuring that the shop's eclectic selection of titles is properly shelved.

For a hearty meal, head to Food For Thought, right next to the Singapore Art Museum on Bras Basah. Offerings include an amazing pumpkin risotto, pancakes with fresh cream and gula melaka (palm sugar) syrup, and homemade ice lemon tea.

It's tempting to think that everything worth doing in this air-conditioned nation is found indoors. But there's plenty of fun to be had in the great wide open. Recently relocated to Pasir Ris and operated by the husband-and-wife team of Shawn and Jacinta Sonja - graphic designers with a love for two-wheelers - Vanguard rents bikes to intrepid travellers. If you're looking for a challenging cycling adventure, Singapore has heritage trails, nature reserves, parks and gardens to explore.

WORD-OF-MOUTH MARKETING

In Singapore, the passion for talking about eating is nearly as strong as the passion for eating itself. Accounts of dining experiences roll off the tongues of just about every Singaporean (and appear on Facebook pages, and in blogs and food columns). One of the most talked-about dining destinations at the moment is Kilo Restaurant/Café. This open-air, second-storey food den is not your typical Singaporean hangout. The minimalist furnishings and East-meets-West menu is custom-made to leave a lasting impression. Offerings run the gamut from braised duck, pork belly and seared scallops to tuna carpaccio and sushi.

Another establishment drawing food-savvy crowds is The White Rabbit, an artsy and daring eatery housed in a converted chapel. With beautiful stained-glass windows and soft lighting, it's a decidedly languid setting for a fine meal. Try the chicken and duck liver parfait, duck confit or Maine lobster thermidor. For an even loftier experience, book a table at Graze, where the ambience is quiet and cosy. Modern Australian cuisine is the speciality, along with award-winning Chef Chris Donnellan's signature pina colada coconut parfait.

If you're looking for a more down-to-earth experience, venture into Singapore's heartlands and sample the island's best hawker food. A must-try is the famous Wang Wang Crispy Curry Puff at the Old Airport Road Food Centre. Other local favourites include kway chap (a Teochew dish featuring flat, broad rice sheets soaked in a soup-based soy sauce with pig offal) and lor mee (thick egg noodles covered with a thick starchy gravy). For dessert, visit Udders, a homegrown brand established by artisan ice-cream makers. As it has locations across the island, there's no reason for adventurous visitors to miss out on Asian-inspired flavours like the Mao Shan Wang Durian, Gila Melaka and Kopi-C Ecstasy.

BRIGHT LIGHTS, BIG CITY

Singapore never sleeps. By Wednesday night, there's already a weekend-worthy buzz in many parts of the island. As office workers embark on their daily pilgrimage out of the downtown high-rises, a hush takes hold in the Central Business District - but only briefly. In the centre of the city-state's towering skyline is clubby rooftop bar Kinki. Try its spicy Hachimitsu, a cocktail made with vodka, honey Umeshu, wasabi and fresh lemon. Or find your groove at locally organised music parties like Mugic Soundsystem, Darker Than Wax and Mixtape Confessions. Each party boasts its own one-of-a-kind sound and vibe. From indie electronica to Miami bass mayhem, just about every modern music genre imaginable is on offer to help you dance the night away under the stars. Because the organisers like to keep their parties intimate, gig details are typically found only on Facebook.

If you're looking for something more chic and laid-back, get yourself to Fabrika, a proper alfresco bar on the rooftop of boutique hotel The Klapsons. With plush seating and jaw-dropping views, this is among the best places in the city to catch a sunset. Another place that comes alive at dusk is Blujaz Café. Its eye-catching murals aren't the only reason that this place rocks. On the first floor is a stage that regularly plays host to performers like Aya Sekine, a Japan-bred, Singapore-based jazz pianist whose high-energy performances have earned her a loyal following. To pump up the volume, follow the bass-thumping music up the stairs to the second level, where there's a DJ booth and plenty of room to move.

If you're looking for a little more conversation, stroll down the alley towards the sound of voices and clinking glasses. Situated on the second storey of a narrow shophouse is Bar Stories & Café Fables. Choose from a list of unique concoctions like the honeydew sake martini or leave it to the experts here to whip up a bespoke beverage. If you're more a lover of the classics, journey back in time at Rewind. The décor is decidedly minimalist: exposed brick walls with bare bulbs overhead. Prepare to dance up close and personal with strangers here, as space is rather limited.

WHERE TO STAY

The InnCrowd
The vibe at this award-winning hostel is friendly and welcoming. There are pool tables, outdoor seating and plenty of cheap Indian eateries within easy reach. And it's just a few minutes away from Singapore's 24-hour shopping paradise, the Mustafa Centre. Rates start at S$59/A$45 per night.

73 Dunlop St, tel: +65 6296 9169, www.the-inncrowd.com

Naumi Hotel
Eye-catching and strategically located in the city's business and shopping district, Naumi is a stone's throw away from the Raffles Hotel and the Esplanade, and is a ten-minute taxi ride from the casino at the Marina Bay Sands. History buff? Singapore's War Memorial Park is just around the corner. Rates start at S$417/A$322 per night.

41 Seah St, tel: +65 6403 6000, www.naumihotel.com

Wanderlust Hotel
Located in the back streets of Little India, this whimsical hotel is hard to find even for veteran cabbies, which makes it all the more appealing. Each of its 29 rooms features art works by local design houses such as internationally renowned Asylum, phunk Studio and fFurious. From space age-themed creations to minimalist black-and-white patterns, the art makes it the ideal place for those seeking a one-of-a-kind stay. Rates start at S$229/A$176 per night.

2 Dickson Rd, tel: +65 6396 3322, www.wanderlusthotel.com