Tiger Tales

Hats off to Homecoming

A frequent winner at international cooking contests, 26-year-old Hong Kong native Vicky Cheng has spent more time abroad than on his home turf. But he recently came back to practise his skills at Liberty Private Works (LPW) and Liberty Exchange Kitchen (LEX).

Cheng trained under some of the world’s best chefs, from Jason Bangerter of Toronto’s Auberge du Pommier, to Anthony Walsh of Canoe, also in Toronto, to Daniel Boulud of New York’s Daniel – owner of three Michelin Stars and last year’s James Beard Best Restaurant of the Year.

And while he has won plenty of accolades of his own, he doesn’t take it all too seriously, but he does keep a running tally of the “best meal of my life” raves that he has received from LPW customers. The count now stands at 17.

The dishes that mum and grandma made will always be the standard to which Cheng aspires. Still, diners with any doubts that such a young chef could have accomplished so much in so little time need only sample his contributions to the menus of two top Hong Kong eateries.

Q: WHAT DEFINES YOUR COOKING STYLE?
I have a classic French restaurant background and my techniques are traditional. But because of my age and my playful mind I like to experiment and use a lot of Asian ingredients.

Q: HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE ONE OF HONG KONG’S YOUNGEST EXECUTIVE CHEFS?
Challenging but exciting. I’ve been the youngest at a lot of things I’ve done – competitions, restaurant cook, apprentice and winning awards. I wanted to do the same as an executive chef.

Q: WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST DAY AS A 16-YEAR- OLD APPRENTICE LIKE?
Frightening because I didn’t know anything about cooking and I knew I was in a kitchen full of very talented cooks. But my mentor Jason Bangerter took me in as his first apprentice and taught me everything I know.

Q: WHAT DID YOU MISS MOST ABOUT ASIA WHILE WORKING IN NEW YORK?
I missed Asian food but I actually missed Toronto the most because my mum and sister were there. Without my mother’s support I would not be where I am today. She decided to support me even though she knew this was a hard industry.

Q: WHICH CUISINES WOULD YOU LIKE TO EXPLORE?
Asian. It’s the main reason I came back to Hong Kong – to be surrounded by the food, the ingredients and the culture.

Q: FOOD-WISE, CAN HONG KONG MATCH NEW YORK?
New York’s fine dining scene is, of course, miles ahead. But when it comes to local food, Hong Kong has the advantage. I love street food and seafood at Lama Island and Dai Pai Dong.

FIND IT:

● The Chef’s Counter at Liberty Private Works, which was the regional Academy Chairman’s Choice for the 2011 S Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, is open to 16 guests each night. 3/F, 12 Wellington St, Central, Hong Kong, tel: +852 5186 3282, www.libertypw.com

● Liberty Exchange Kitchen & Bar is a hybrid bistro, restaurant and bar. It serves up simple, satisfying, honest dishes, with a focus on American-style comfort food like fish and chips, burgers and waffles. 2 Exchange Square, 8 Connaught Place, Central, Hong Kong, tel: +852 2810 8400, www.lex.hk