Tiger Tales

Streets of your town

Photography by Mark Lobo

As Aussie band the Go-Betweens sang in their 80s hit song about their hometown of Brisbane: “Round and round, up and down, every day I make my way through the streets of your town”. Lucky for them, they knew their way around. As for visitors, knowing which streets to explore in this city of hidden pockets all but guarantees an unforgettable stay. Brisbane’s alleyways and enclaves are often missed by visitors who make a beeline for the CBD and the river attractions, unaware that there’s much more to this boomtown than the offerings at its centre.

The heart of Brisbane beats in its suburbs, where the food, fashion, art and entertainment scenes converge but still manage to retain their individuality, says Woolloongabba resident Sally Winter.

“Everyone living here understands it. The suburbs are the true spirit of Brisbane – spaces defined by the colour and the personality of the people who live there: us. “Each suburb is a collection of streets that can be bohemian and eclectic or totally classic – the vibe can be completely different from place to place but it always fits. The best thing is, we always feel at home.”

For years, Brisbane’s potential to supply visitors with hidey-hole discoveries – from eclectic fashion stores to under-the-radar drinking dens – was stymied by a country-town culture and a street scene dependent on what Sydney and Melbourne were doing. Until now.

Entrepreneur Susannah George says: “I came back to Brisbane after several years living abroad to start my business. After a long time away I was in this unique position where I could play tourist and resident. I see the city through old and new eyes and I can tell you this much, it’s never been as exciting as it is now. Brisbane isn’t choked by tradition. There is no right way of doing things and this is so refreshing. It provides much more opportunity for creativity.”

As Brisbane gets back on its feet after January’s flood, it’s time to support the region and add these streets to your must-visit list:

GIVEN & LATROBE TERRACES, PADDINGTON

A mix of boutique fashion stores, quaint cafés, eclectic homewares shops and vintage cool awaits you in the inner-city suburb of Paddington. The streets criss- cross a ridge overlooking a valley packed with workers’ cottages and distinctive Queenslander houses, many of which are now home to chic boutiques and eateries.

Purveyors of all things lovely, Ici et là is a must-visit. This shop housed in a quaint cottage sells French fabrics, boldly striped goods in canvas and toile as well as plenty of quirky little collectables. Prepare to swoon. Gallic influences also hold sway at Du Monde, a homewares store bursting with French- and European-inspired bedding, candles, antiques and even vintage posters.

Francophiles can placate their hunger with a near perfect steak and pomme frites at Montrachet, a quaint little French bistro featuring red leather booths, a superb wine list and that delightful Parisienne je ne sais quoi. Skip dessert and head to Monty’s Chocolates to choose from a range of gourmet goodies from around the globe. When thirst takes hold, enter The Lark. This hidden gem boasts some of the best cocktails and snacks in town, all served up by a switched-on and friendly bar staff.

Fashion mavens will rejoice at the offerings at Boudoir Chic, Meow Meow and Chasing Bow. Together, they carry an eclectic selection of domestic and international labels, from Karen Walker to Arnsdorf and Zimmermann. While the focus at Boudoir Chic is on to-die-for European lingerie, one floor down at The Little Black Dress Shop you’ll find racks of Missoni, Hugo Boss and more. More fashion goods can be found down the road at Miss Henry, Living Silk and Wallflower Suite. For a piece of jewellery worthy of a detailed description on postcards home, head for The French Door Fine Jewels to browse a selection of handcrafted pieces.

If you’re in the market for something a bit less pricey, Thousand Island Dressing is a treasure trove of beaded goodness.

UP THE ROAD…

Nestled at the junction of Petrie Terrace and Given Terrace is the Paddington Barracks precinct. This former military housing facility was given a multi million-dollar overhaul in 2009, becoming a popular spot for dining, shopping, arthouse films and people watching. A former jail is now home to über-trendy restaurants, while heritage-listed buildings now house offices as well as boutiques targeting the well- heeled and lovers of fine food.

EAT Peasant – For authentic Spanish-inspired tapas and earthy modern surrounds. A classic choice and the closest thing to Madrid in Brisbane – fun, romantic and unstuffy

Libertine – For stellar light Asian meals, beautiful surrounds and an über-cool clientele custom-made for people watchers

French Twist – For the ultimate in hand-crafted pastries and other buttery confections

SHOP Bittersweet – A decadent chocolatier that’s worth a visit for those seeking snacks, gifts or the opportunity to admire the beautifully adorned chocolates in the window

Coldrakes Books – A bookstore with an intimate atmosphere and a well-chosen selection of fiction, books about art and cookery and the latest bestsellers

LOGAN ROAD, WOOLLOONGABBA

Logan Road delights with its quaint buildings that have been repurposed as trendy stores filled with quirky collectables, vintage and designer fashion products, retro and antique goods, furnishings and artworks. Just make sure that you visit this inner-east suburb on an empty stomach, as the area is also home to some of Brisbane’s best restaurants.

Once known as a football stomping ground thanks to its proximity to the famous Gabba cricket ground, Logan Road has been transformed. A relatively new hot spot, having come alive only in the past few years, this precinct has individuality stamped all over it. Most businesses here are run by motivated young creative types, helping make it a quirky and colourful place to visit. Prepare to be enchanted by century-old shop façades and nooks featuring graffiti and other street art. For breakfast or to satisfy that sweet tooth, try the Pearl Café, where the peanut butter cheesecake is a must. Canvas is the place to go at cocktail hour for its offbeat takes on classics such as the Mrs Hendricks – a wondrous combination of gin, sherry, elderflower cordial, cucumber and thyme.

To seek hidden treasures for the bedroom and body, rifle through the delights at Lavish Essentials and Miss Mouse, where every fashion persuasion and decorating whimsy is catered for. For that little touch of antique mystery, visit the Gabba Fiveways Antique Emporium, home to more than 40 dealers of Georgian-, Victorian-, Edwardian- and Oriental-inspired antiques. Don’t leave the area without dining at Crosstown Eating House. This restaurant has generated considerable buzz in recent months and is a home away from home for those who love a modern take on the classics. Think sticky pork spare ribs, terrines and sides of crushed minted peas. Also try 1889 Enoteca for superlative Italian food and a stellar and eclectic wine list.

ON THE STREET

WITH MATT HOWLAND, CO-OWNER OF CROSSTOWN EATING HOUSE

Q Why Logan Road?

We fell in love with 23 Logan Road. Originally built as The Woolloongabba Baby Clinic in 1928, it finally closed in the early 70s and became an antique shop for over 20 years. It has a long history and will now be a restaurant and bar for many years to come. In a sense, it has been returned to the people of Brisbane to enjoy.

Q If there were five people living or dead you’d love to see walk through the doors of Crosstown, who would they be?

Jimi Hendrix, whose song Crosstown Traffic inspired our name; Elle McPherson, the original supermodel, Genghis Khan, to call last drinks; Oprah, because she loves Australia; and Mickey Rourke, because I want to see him close up.

Q What makes Logan Road so special?

The village atmosphere and boulevard-style street lined with heritage buildings – rare in Brisbane.

Q How does the Logan Road locale influence the kind of food/vibe that you create?

The Crosstown complements other restaurants and businesses on the street. We all do our own thing to the highest standard.

Q What have you learned here – about food, life or people? Hospitality is a hard business. We have learned to stick to our guns and not try to satisfy everyone. Keep the food simple, fresh and ensure value for money.

UP THE ROAD…

Further along Logan Road, but slightly separated from the main hive of activity, are a trio of mention-worthy delights to visit.

Ilja Grawert violin maker. Why? It’s just so pretty, even if you don’t have a clue how to play one.

Brown Dog Café. Because? Spectacular coffee, friendly service and the odd brown dog sitting at an outside table with its owner and a café-supplied bowl of water.

Stretch your legs and walk 100m up the road from Brown Dog Café to visit the Woolloongabba Antiques Centre. You are highly unlikely to leave without making a purchase. The near-endless range of delights in that store will make sure of it.

JAMES STREET, BRUNSWICK STREET, WINN STREET AND ANN STREET, NEW FARM AND FORTITUDE VALLEY To pick apart this paradise of hedonism would be cruel. It’s a U-shaped cluster of streets full of retail, beauty and culinary goodness. Popular day and night, the clientele shifts from boho to boutique from street to street.

The streets and surrounding areas evolved at warp speed, drawing in some of the biggest names in fashion, design and food. Like the Meatpacking District in New York, this area of Brisbane has retained its rough edges, offering a taste of what it used to be even as it puts the emphasis on what’s offered now – the crème de la crème.

JAMES STREET

An example of highly successful gentrification, this street is home to internationally renowned designers who offer the very best in fashion labels. There’s dining opportunities to match. What began as a premium farmers’ market quickly morphed into the high-end corner of Brisbane. Quite a feat for what used to be the crime-and-clubbing precinct.

Start the day with breakfast at Harvey’s before joining the parade of style mavens. Fashion knows no bounds and you’ll feel a spring in your step as you enter Sass & Bide, a casually glam temple of cool and the flagship store of a chain founded by a Brisbane design duo. Nearby is Scanlan & Theodore, a haven for those seeking stylish, sleek and phenomenally high-quality clothes. And across the street is Frockshop, a former online store that recently went the brick-and-mortar route. Here you’ll find everything from 80s-inspired tees to designer-label ball gowns. Keep your energy level up with a pit stop at Jocelyn’s Provisions. Given its tucked-away locale, Jocelyn’s is easy to miss but it’s well worth a visit, being that it’s Brisbane’s answer to New York’s famed Magnolia Bakery. Marvel at cupcakes, tarts and pies that are pretty enough to make you squeal. Head up the road to Chelsea de Luca for timeless and seriously sparkly jewellery.

For lovers of beautiful interiors, head to Kova Lifestyle and Magnolia Interiors. These two unique home and decorating ateliers are phenomenal places for those in search of that perfect gift.

BRUNSWICK STREET, FORTITUDE VALLEY The heart of the “The Valley” and home to galleries, eateries, clubs and boutiques, this is a must-visit spot. It’s a long street, extending from the suburb of Spring Hill to the river’s edge at New Farm Park, but there’s a hotbed of action around the Fortitude Valley end. Here you’ll find homewares from just about every era, designer threads and Ortiga, Gourmet Traveller magazine’s hottest new restaurant of 2010, to name just a few.

As mentioned, Brunswick Street extends into the distance so we suggest starting halfway along at the wondrous Black & Spiro. This colourful shop’s eye-catching collection of prints and heavenly furniture is enough to make you go weak at the knees. For the artistically inclined, Brunswick Street is home to galleries including the Philip Bacon Art Gallery, the Judith Wright Centre and the Libby Edwards Gallery. And stop by Artisan for its pure whimsy and occasional glimpses of the unexpected. If it’s time to refuel, enjoy a drink at Gertie’s Bar & Restaurant and then dinner at Ortiga, the beating heart of Brisbane’s Spanish food and tapas scene.

WINN STREET, FORTITUDE VALLEY

Tucked away at the corner of Winn and Ann Streets, The Outpost is a small store with a fabulous selection of independent brands and products by artists and designers from around the world. Browse everything from clothing to books, zines, music and ephemera. Walk 10m farther along to Flamingo Café, which is squirrelled away in its own microscopic back alley behind the Winn Street façade. This café could so easily fall victim to its own coolness but the eclectic crowd and its toasted tomato meatball and fontina sandwich ensure that it is no sass and all substance.

For paper lovers, specialty stationery store Little Jane St is filled with one-off art prints, greeting cards and lovely little paper- made delights.

ANN STREET, FORTITUDE VALLEY

For fashion junkies, this is the street for labels you lust after and those you’ve never heard of but are glad to find. Blonde Venus caters to both sexes with its investment- worthy pieces, which are often a little bit off the wall but are always of the highest quality. Owner Thea is a delight, leaving customers eager to come back for more. Next door is the formidable Akira Isogowa, where the clothing is as much art as it is fashion. Mod.Cons is one of Brisbane’s largest stockists of Dinosaur Designs jewellery and homewares and offers a bounty of fun, modern delights.

Cocktail-wise, it seems the New Farm trend now extends to Ann St, home to suave watering holes like The Bowery, which serves incomparable espresso martinis.

For more bespoke cocktails, try the buzzed- about Laruche Bar and Supperclub, where the conversation is as good as the drinks.

To enjoy one of the largest open roofs in the Southern Hemisphere, and a larger club- style atmosphere, try Cloudland, with its and four levels of eateries, bars and lounges.

ON THE STREET

WITH THEODORA BASSILLIOU, OWNER OF BLONDE VENUS

Q Five words that describe Ann Street?

The gateway to creative Brisbane.

Q Why is Ann Street a home away from home?

Blonde Venus has been here for 15-and-a-half years! It is an extension of me and I really feel at home in the space. It’s also such a community, with our long-time friends at The Zoo and Flamingo Café. I miss them when I’m away.

Q Best thing that happened in the store today?

I had two young high school girls who travelled more than two hours just to come to Blonde Venus. That’s so cool!

Q Which person alive or dead would you most love to see walk into your store?

At the moment it would be the artist, writer, actor and film director Miranda July.

GREY STREET & LITTLE STANLEY STREET, SOUTH BANK Aficionados of all things lovely flock to this eating, design and shopping strip with its serene and glamorous ambience. A river width away from the city centre, Grey Street’s archetypal offering is simple, cool and different.

This part of town has seen its fair share of highs and lows. During the settlement of Brisbane, it was considered the CBD. South Bank gradually lost its lustre, only to enjoy a brief resurgence as the home of Expo 88. The grounds were then left to deteriorate before becoming a blank canvas for savvy business owners and creatives, who transformed them into the city’s leading arts and cultural precinct.

Foodies will go crazy for the selections on Grey Street. At Piaf there is a calm efficiency to the service and a sense of style that is as appealing as the menu, the surrounds and what consistently ranks as the best coffee in town. Dine at least once at Sardine Tin, a rustic industrial haven for those seeking tapas and a relaxed vibe.

Popular favourites include the cheese platter with honeycomb and cornichons and the pork croquettes with saffron aioli. Wine bar 5th Element offers break-the- bank-worthy wines by the glass. You may never have a better chance to try a glass of Chateau de Y’quem on a whim. My Sweetopia offers the daintiest cupcakes you’re likely to find, with the perfect icing- to-sponge ratio and a freshness that’s unbeatable. They’re the perfect portable snack for your Grey Street amble.

Shoppers seeking high-end labels should visit Nancy King, Izabel & Sebastian and Akuti to get their fill of in-season fashions. For those on the lookout for something more delicate, enjoy taste tests and beautiful fragrant aromas at Tlicious, one of Brisbane’s first boutique tea sellers and a purveyor of more than 150 fine teas.

ON THE STREET

WITH MARINA NIKOLIC, CO-OWNER OF MY SWEETOPIA

Q If Grey Street was a cupcake, what flavour would it be?

The delicious jam doughnut cupcake. It’s full of flavour, pretty to look at and its a twist on tradition.

Q Something people might not know about Grey Street is...

The street is full of hidden treasures that most people don’t notice or enjoy until they take a closer look.

Q Grey Street is the best place for My Sweetopia because...

We are close to South Bank and city events but still get to be in our own little world.

Q If you could sell a cupcake to any person alive or dead, who would it be?

Richard Branson.

FIND IT

- 1889 Enoteca, 10/12 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba, tel: (0)7 3392 4315

- 5th Element, Cnr of Tribune and Little Stanley Sts, South Bank, tel: (0)7 3846 5584, www.5thelement.com.au

- Akira Isagowa, 705 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3252 4919, www.akira.com.au

- Akuti, 199 Grey St, South Bank, tel: (0) 7 3844 4451

- Artisan, 381 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3215 0800

- Black & Spiro, 768 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3254 3000, www.blackandspiro.com.au

- Blonde Venus, 707 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3216 1735, www.blondevenus.com.au

- Boudoir Chic, 199 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3367 8858, www.boudoirchic.com.au

- The Bowery, 676 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3252 0202, www.thebowery.com.au

- Canvas, 16B Logan Rd, Woolloongabba, tel: (0)7 3891 2111

- Chasing Bow, 33B Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3161 1989, www.chasingbow.com

- Chelsea de Luca, 76 James St, New Farm, tel: (0)7 3358 6880, www.chelseadeluca.com.au

- Cloudland, 641 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3872 6600, www.cloudland.tv

- Crosstown Eating House, 23 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba, tel: (0)7 3162 3839, www.thecrosstown.com.au

- Du Monde, 171 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3368 1223

- Flamingo Café, 5B Winn St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3252 7557, www.flamingocafe.com.au

- French Door Fine Jewels, 2/2 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3367 8353, www.thefrenchdoor.com.au

- Frockshop, 8/65 James St, Fortitude Valley, tel: 1300 723884

- Gabba Fiveways Antiques Emporium, 11 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba, tel: (0)7 3891 5572, www.gabba5waysantiquesemporium.com

- Gertie’s Bar & Restaurant, 699 Brunswick St, New Farm, tel: (0)7 3358 5088, www.gerties.com.au

- Harveys, 4/31 James St, Fortitude Valley, tel:  (0)7 3852 3700, www.harveys.net.au

- Ici et Là, 32 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3368 4005, www.icietla.com.au

- Izabel and Sebastian, 167 Grey St, South Bank, tel: (0)7 3255 0558

- Jocelyn’s Provisions, Shop 8, Centro, James St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3852 3799, www.jocelynsprovisions.com.au

- Judith Wright Centre, 420 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3872 9000

- Kova Lifestyle, Shop 9A, 23 James St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3257 7055, www.kovalifestyle.com.au

- The Lark, 1/267 Given Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3369 1299, www.thelark.com.au

- Laruche Bar and Supperclub, 680 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3666 0880 www.laruche.com.au

- Lavish Essentials, 37 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba, tel: (0)7 3391 0108, www.lavishessentials.com

- Libby Edwards Gallery, 482 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3358 3944

- Little Black Dress Shop, 199 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3367 8808, www.thelittleblackdressshop.com.au

- Little Jane St, 5C Winn St, Fortitude Valley, tel:  (0)7 3122 1306, www.littlejanestreet.com.au

- Living Silk, 44 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3367 3777, www.livingsilk.com.au

- Magnolia Interiors, Shop 10A, Centro, James St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3252 0805, www.magnoliainteriors.com.au

- Meow Meow, Shop 5, 2 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3217 6322, www.meowmeow.com.au

- Miss Henry, 220 Given Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3369 2555

- Miss Mouse, 2/28 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba, tel: (0)7 3891 1906

- Mod.Cons, 702 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3257 2996, www.mod-cons.com.au

- Montrachet, 224 Given Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3367 0030, www.montrachet.com.au

- Monty’s Chocolates, 155 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3369 3135, www.montyschocolates.com

- My Sweetopia, Shop 8, 180 Grey St, South Bank, tel: (0)7 3844 3732, www.mysweetopia.com.au

- Nancy King, 161 Grey St, South Bank, tel:  (0)7 3844 4968, www.nancyking.com.au

- Ortiga, 446 Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley, tel : (0)7 3852 1155

- The Outpost, 5A Winn St, tel: (0)7 3666 0306, www.theoutpoststore.com.au

- Pearl Café, 28 Logan Rd, Woolloongabba, tel: (0)7 3392 3300

- Philip Bacon Gallery, 2 Arthur St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3358 3555

- Piaf, 5/182 Grey St, South Bank, tel: (0)7 3846 5026, www.piafbistro.com.au

- Sardine Tin, Shop 3A, Arbour on Grey, Little Stanley St, South Bank, tel: (0)7 3846 1146, www.sardinetin.com.au

- Sass & Bide, 46 James St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3252 2511, www.sassandbide.com

- Scanlan & Theodore, 46 James St, Fortitude Valley, tel: (0)7 3257 0111, www.scanlantheodore.com.au

- Thousand Island Dressing, 137 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3367 8288, www.thousandislanddressing.com

- Tlicious, 176-178 Grey St, South Bank, tel:  (0)7 3844 3305, www.tlicious.com.au

- Wallflower Suite, Shop 3, 209-211 Given Terrace, Paddington, tel: (0)7 3137 1317 www.wallflowersuite.com