Tiger Tales

Friday, Saturday, Sunday in Perth

FRIDAY

6 PM Catch a cab into the city from the airport – it won’t cost you more than A$15/S$19 – and head to tiger, tiger on Murray Street. It’s a café-bar owned by some former Melburnians and a bit of a hip institution, not to mention a meeting place for lovers of art and design. Order a bottle of Antipodes water to rehydrate then hit the espresso martini. It’s a coffee and booze fix in one – the perfect post-flight pick-me-up!

8 PM Now that you’re wired and hydrated, you need food to keep your energy up for the kick-ass stuff ahead. Walk right through the Hay Street Mall – it’s a good 10-minute walk, but it’s worth it to find Jun, a tiny, warm and serene BYO Japanese restaurant down an alleyway (towards the east end of Hay Street) and below street level. Kick off your shoes and take a seat on the floor around a sunken table. Order a big selection of the small dishes, as they’re all very light. Don’t miss the octopus and quail eggs. If Japanese isn’t your thing, take a cab from tiger, tiger down Beaufort Street and into Inglewood (it’s just past Mt Lawley and should take around 10 minutes). Once there, drop into Rembrandt for some traditional Polish fare at very low prices (go for the Polish dumplings and cabbage rolls). Alternatively, venture across the road and down the street for a fine-dining fix at Da Bruno’s, a charming Italian restaurant in an old house. Bring your own bottle of red and cast your eyes to the blackboard for specials and the usual Italian food suspects, like gnocchi done incredibly well.

10 PM Stroll back down Beaufort towards the city, and pop into the always busy, ever-friendly corner pub The Scotsman for a pint and some music. Keep walking down Beaufort and check in at Clarence’s, a small venue and relative newbie on the Perth bar scene. Enjoy the wooden fit-out and recycled-brick interior while sipping a big glass of red, or head into the back courtyard and wet your whistle with a gin and tonic under the stars. Clarence’s boasts a full fine-dining menu along with great desserts if you’d prefer to eat here.

11 PM If you feel like you can still shuffle off after all that indulging, you’ve got a few options – pull out your phone and check out www.nowbaking.com.au for a rundown of who is playing at The Bakery, an independent live music venue in Northbridge. Thanks to its year-long calendar of cutting-edge, alternative international acts, experimental local bands, and a recently renovated interior, you can’t go wrong. Just down the road, brand-new bar Ya Ya’s in Northbridge hosts a series of themed dance and live music nights that never fail to attract a young, music-loving crowd. Once you’re done on the dance floor, grab a kebab from Alto’s to soak up the night’s boozin’ and chill out on the grass in front of the giant Northbridge Piazza movie screen, just opposite Ya Ya’s. If you’re craving a more substantial late-night feast, head down James Street to Chinatown and crowd around the Lazy Susans at Uncle Billy’s or Billy Lee’s and order a bunch of dishes to share (the black pepper and honey ribs are stellar). They serve beer, too.

MY PERFECT FRIDAY

Time to get up and go! First off, a quick visit to Sherbet for a bit of brekkie. I’d liken these guys to the Magnolias of Perth. They certainly make the best cupcakes around. My pick is a slice of toasted banana-and-chocolate bread. Then I jump on my vintage scooter and ride it down Beaufort Street to vintage store Mo-Mo’s to check out their latest shipment of prime attire. Next it’s over to Subiaco’s Station Street Markets to stock up on Perth’s freshest and cheapest fruit and vegetables, before meeting a friend for coffee at the Greenhouse. Just around the corner I get my weekly record fix at Beat Route Records on Barrack Street, before tucking into some sweets from Ye Olde Lolly Shoppe on London Court while admiring my purchases. Then it’s over to Little Willy’s for some lunch. I also grab a takeaway coffee to keep me going during a few hours of work at the shared studio space where I run my graphic design business, The Village. As work winds down, I’ll head next door to small bar Kitsch for some social drinks. Not much time for dinner, so I stop by The Flying Taco on the way home and grab myself one of the tastiest veggie burritos in town. A quick shower and change at home, then I’m back in the city to check out a friend’s band play at Deville’s Pad, a great venue whose interior design is out of this world! I finish the night up with a dance at new bar Ya Ya’s. Ash Pederick, DJ and graphic designer

SATURDAY

9 AM No doubt you’re feeling rough after last night’s frivolity. A trip to the pavement outside German butcher Elmar’s will get you a German sausage with sauerkraut at its weekly Saturday sausage sizzle. Just around the corner, you’ll find the best little bakery in the area, The Pearl Of Highgate. Pick up a chocolate croissant and wander down Lincoln Street towards Hyde Park to enjoy your pastries in the sunshine. Or head into the city and visit Zekka on King Street. It’s an awesome café-designer boutique that stocks some really forward-thinking European labels. It’s also the best-dressed shop in Perth. The interior is not unlike an art gallery on some days. For the record, the coffee and food are excellent.

11 AM Now it’s time to jump in a hire car or onto the Fremantle train line to get a taste of Perth’s coastal region. Make like a fish at Cottesloe Beach by jumping into its sapphire surf, then sunbake a while. After your beach sojourn, the Swanbourne’s The Dancing Goat is a great pit stop.

1 PM After lunch, head back down to the seashore and walk along the West Coast Drive foot/bike path. If you’re up for it, you can get all the way to Hillarys Boat Harbour. If not, turn around and head back to the Cottesloe hood, where The John St Café – while always packed – does awesome lunches (it’s a little pricey, so give it a miss if you’re scraping your pockets already).

3 PM Back onto the train you go and into Fremantle, a port town whose residents have good reason to be cocky about their hometown. It really is a beautiful, laidback place, with plenty of great fashion boutiques and places to eat and drink. Stop by the Fremantle Arts Centre and check out whatever exhibitions it has going. There is always something contemporary, interesting and on trend. Round out your time in Freo with a visit to the Little Creatures Brewery. Watch through the glass walls as the beer is made, before knocking back a few pale ales or some Pipsqueak cider while wolfing down one of their delicious pizzas.

7 PM Book ahead for your night at Spanish restaurant Pata Negra, which is fast gaining a reputation for serving awesome tapas. It’s dimly lit inside, but that just adds to the romantic feel, as the dark-wood walls are lined with bottles of vintage Spanish wine. You’ll probably spend a few hours wining and dining here – the sardines and jamon (Spanish cured ham) are a must-try.

9 PM Make your way back through the city and into Northbridge and nab yourself a spot on one of the wooden benches at Ezra Pound. Grab a King Brown (served in a brown paper bag) or a traditional Tom Collins cocktail (served in a jam jar) and kick back with the crowd. If you’re craving a bit of live music, head next door to see some local bands tear it up at The Bird. It’s a wicked little joint with beat-up old lounge chairs outside. If it’s a cocktail you’re after, grab a stool at 399, just up the road, and ask the guys behind the bar to whip you up a made-to-order creation. It’s sure to be great.

11 PM To boogie into the wee hours, make for Capitol in the city for its Death Disco indie dance night. Or for some serious house and techno, underground dance cave Ambar, also in the city, is just the ticket. Gay bar Geisha is very non-gay friendly, and is a great place for an early-morning disco boogie. The rooftop bar offers views of the city skyline and is a near-perfect place to see the sunrise. You could also walk up to Kings Park, provided you’ve got the energy for it after your mammoth day.

MY PERFECT SATURDAY

When I have a Saturday off from the shop, I like to try and pack in as much as possible. An ideal day would start at the Subi Farmers Market, with a breakfast of a delicious, freshly-made bacon-and- egg roll and a bit of shopping for local produce. Then I’d head to West End Deli in West Perth for a coffee. I love the friendly and relaxed atmosphere there and the décor reminds me a bit of Berlin, where my husband and I lived for a little while. After that I’d head out to Guildford to rummage through the antique shops on James Street and maybe pick up a couple of things for Mr Sparrow, but more likely a few things for myself! From there it’s not far to John Forrest National Park, which is a lovely patch of bush for a picnic or just a wander along the creek or up to the Swan View Tunnel. It would be nice to wind up the day with a sunset barbecue at City Beach with friends, maybe followed by a drink at Kitsch, a nice, newish bar just down the road from our place in Leederville. Anna Macoboy, owner of Mr Sparrow, a home, gift and garden store

TOP 5 VINTAGE SHOPPING SPOTS

1 Winfred & Bance This store is small but packs a punch – suitcases full of colourful scarves, racks of dresses from the 50s and 60s, a dressing table laden with vintage jewels and cupcakes on the counter. What’s not to love? Reasonable prices for quality vintage items, too. 850 Beaufort St, Inglewood, tel: +61 (0)8 9473 0390

2 Mo-Mo’s The lady who owns the store also runs the store. And she sources vintage goods from around the world, with new items coming through the door on a daily basis. If the boutique part of the shop doesn’t have what you’re looking for, ask to check out the giant warehouse out back, which is brimming with clothes. 849 Beaufort St, Inglewood, tel: +61  
(0)8 9271 8200

3 Pigeonhole Vintage Perth peeps with a good eye for design and great clothing and accessories flock to Pigeonhole’s family of unique shops. A vintage shop is their latest accomplishment. It’s tastefully and simply laid out, with vintage wares hand chosen by the staff. After you’re done buying cute cream dresses, pop in next door for a hazelnut tart and a coffee at Pigeonhole’s brand new café, Cabin Fever. Shop 10, Bon Marche Arcade, 80 Barrack St, tel: +61 (0)8 9221 9837

4 Off The Wall Located in the salty sea port of Fremantle, Off The Wall is a great place for retro homeware and furniture, as well as plenty of time-tested must-haves (like a set of 70s squash racquets). Cast your eyes up to the walls – hanging from them is a great bunch of vintage fixed-gear bikes, made by the store owner. 4 Market St, Fremantle, tel: +61 (0)8 9336 4435

5 Bluebird Vintage This cosy and cluttered nook is crammed with an eclectic mix of vintage fashion goods and accessories, along with retro homeware, collectables and antique curios. Other goodies include Polaroids and pop-culture kitsch. 288 Cambridge St, Wembley, tel: +61 (0)8 9287 2768

SUNDAY

9 AM A Sunday morning in Perth starts for a lot of folks at the Subi Markets, home to an inviting range of offerings – lots of fresh fruit and vegetables, plants, knick-knacks and fresh flowers. There’s also a mini-bakery and wonderful chocolate crêpes and coffee at La Galette France. Once you’ve checked out the market, use the morning to explore Rokeby Road. Highlights include designer boutique Zara Bryson, which stocks some great labels from Perth designers, as well as the divine Subiaco Bookshop. If you need another coffee hit, Café Café uses awesome Illy coffee and boasts a pretty great vibe.

11 AM Take a cab over to Leederville, on the other side of Loftus Street, and have a wander down Oxford Street. Remedy, Urban Records, Oxford Street Books, Hunter, Black Plastic and Harry & Gretel are among the many independent-minded shops to explore. No doubt you’ll work up an appetite, so head to Little Caesars in Leederville for great pizzas. Bring along a bottle of red if you’re so inclined, as they’re BYO. If burgers are more your thing, there’s gourmet goodness to be had across the road at Jus Burgers – the lamb and the chickpea burgers are high on our list.

2 PM If the weather’s fine, now might be the ideal time to explore Perth’s mighty Swan River. Head down to Riverside Drive, near the Point Fraser Reserve carpark, and grab a set of wheels from About Bike Hire. Take off around the river – cycle ‘til you can’t cycle no more! There are plenty of good cafés and restaurants around the Swan – if you’re heading around to the south side, the Boatshed Café offers some picturesque views, and a slice of their passionfruit cheesecake won’t go astray, either.

5 PM Once you’ve returned the bikes and freshened up, nip into gourmet supermarket Herdsmen Fresh in the city and pick up some tasty treats, then head back along the Swan (in a bus or cab this time) to the University Of Western Australia. The university’s Somerville Auditorium is set up as a stunning outdoor cinema during the Perth International Arts Festival, which is ongoing until March. Take in a movie while lounging under the pine trees. There’s always wine, coffee and ice-cream available.

9 PM Your film should finish up at around this time, and maybe a nice quiet drink is in order. Northbridge’s The Moon Café stays open quite late and there are plenty of big, comfy, old lounge chairs to sink into. Grab a carafe of the house red – this place has a casual, homely vibe, so it’s only appropriate that you drink something warming and cheap. They do a mean Afghan cookie special, too – think hot chocolate sauce, cold ice-cream and warm cookie.

MY PERFECT SUNDAY

Ahhhh Sunday… international day of rest. But not for me. It’s 9am and my phone rings. It’s a friend inviting me to a movie. I don’t ask the title because he said it’s at Luna and everything there is good – usually independent, Australian or both. We grab breakfast at Sayers first and I dig into a vegetarian full breakfast. We check out the film The Tree, made by West Australian production company Taylor Media. Afterwards, we to head to Clarence’s to discuss the film over a bottle of wine. We settle on Pierro LTC and head into the courtyard. The sun is out and the atmosphere is perfect. The food here is great, but I feel like being somewhere more cosy. We head up the road to The Pony Club and enjoy some of their killer tapas to round out the night. Ben Young, writer and filmmaker

WHERE TO STAY

BUDGET
If you don’t have a lot of cash to throw around but are determined to find someplace memorable and charming to stay, the Witch’s Hat is your answer. Nestled right in the heart of Northbridge, it’s a stone’s throw from the beautiful Hyde Park, not to mention a bunch of rad cafés. The building itself has a turret and is perhaps best described as a cottage crossed with a castle. 148 Palmerston St, Northbridge, tel: +61 (0)8 9228 4228

MID RANGE
Durack House has an upmarket feel but staying here won’t break the bank. It is located in a beautiful Edwardian building that has been fitted out to historical perfection (think clawfoot tubs, wooden floorboards, ceiling roses and fireplaces). Staying here is like coming home – well, assuming you lived in high style at the turn of the 20th century. The opportunity to enjoy a cup of tea in a beautiful rose garden definitely seals the deal. 7 Almondbury Rd, Mt Lawley, tel: +61  (0)8 9370 4305

BLOW OUT
The Loose Box is a little bit out of town (about 40 minutes from the CBD) but it’s definitely worth your while if you’ve got a bit of time to play with. Set amid Perth bushland, The Loose Box is actually a stellar French restaurant with an exciting degustation menu prepared by Master Chef Alain Fabrègues. Of course, there are also several cottages you can stay in after your mind-blowing meal. You even get breakfast delivered to your cottage door in the morning. 6825 Great Eastern Hwy, Mundaring, tel: +61 (0)8 9295 1787

TOP TIP

Looking for more ways to wile away the time during your Perth stay? We’d recommend high-tailing it over to the online guide to Perth at www.sixthousand.com.au. SixThousand is a weekly snapshot of Perth’s subculture, compiled by an amorphous gaggle of young and trendy writers, designers and photographers. The editors say it’s for “people who realise that the best things in life can be hard to find…” and these things include music, bars, shops, publications, art and design. We like this one because the content is concise, to the point and always written in an amusing, down-to-earth style. Do yourself a favour and check this baby out.

CONTACT BOOK

FRIDAY

- tiger, tiger, Shop 4, 329 Murray St, tel: +61 (0)8 9322 8055
- Jun, 568 Hay St, tel: +61 (0)8 9221 3339
- Rembrandt, 840 Beaufort St, Inglewood, tel: +61 (0)8 9371 9157
- Da Bruno’s, 965A Beaufort St, Inglewood, tel: +61 (0)8 9272 3755
- The Scotsman, 639 Beaufort St, Mt Lawley, tel: +61 (0)8 9328 6200
- Clarence’s, 566 Beaufort St, Mt Lawley, tel: +61 (0)8 9228 9474
- The Bakery, 233 James St, Northbridge, tel: +61 (0)8 9227 6288
- Ya Ya’s, 147 James St, Northbridge, tel: +61 (0)8 9328 7974
- Uncle Billy’s, Shop 9, 66 Roe St, Northbridge, tel: +61 (0)8 9228 9388
- Billy Lee’s, Shop 15, 66 Roe St, Northbridge, tel: +61 (0)8 9328 4003
- Sherbet, 206B Whatley Cr, Maylands, tel: +61 (0)8 9731 8004
- Mo Mo’s, 849 Beaufort St, Inglewood, tel: +61 (0)8 9271 8200
- Beat Route Records, 37 Barrack St, tel: +61 (0)8 9221 8014
- Ye Olde Lolly Shoppe, Shop 6, Carillon Centre, Murray St, tel: +61 (0)8 9485 0233
- Little Willy’s, 267 William St, Northbridge, tel: +61 (0)8 9385 5000
- The Village, 7/225 Oxford St, Leederville, tel: +61 (0)8 9443 2855
- Kitsch, 229 Oxford St, Leederville, tel: +61 (0)8 9242 1229
- The Flying Taco, 40 Angove St, North Perth, tel: +61 (0)8 9227 6393
- Deville’s Pad, 3 Aberdeen St, tel: +61  (0)8 9225 6669

SATURDAY

- Elmar’s, 493 Beaufort St, tel: +61 (0)8 9328 4050
- The Pearl Of Highgate, 189 Lincoln St, Highgate, tel: +61 (0)8 9228 9011
- Zekka, 74-76 King St, tel: +61 (0)8 9481 1772
- Cottesloe Beach, along West Coast Hwy
- The Dancing Goat, Unit 3/142 Railway St, Cottesloe, tel: +61 (0)8 9385 0000
- The John St Café, 37 John St, Cottesloe, tel: +61 (0)8 9384 3390
- Fremantle Arts Centre, 1 Finnerty St, Fremantle, tel: +61 (0)8 9432 9555
- Little Creatures Brewery, 40 Mews Rd, Fremantle, tel: +61 (0)8 9430 5555
- Pata Negra, 26 Stirling Hwy, Nedlands, tel: +61 (0)8 9389 5517
- Ezra Pound, 189 William St, Northbridge, tel: +61 041 575 7666
- The Bird, 181 William St, Northbridge, tel: +61 (0)8 6412 3513
- 399 Bar, 399 William St, Northbridge - Capitol, 385 Murray St, tel: +61 (0)8 9321 7606
- Ambar, 104 Murray St, tel: +61 (0)8 9325 6677
- Subiaco Farmers Market, 271 Bagot Rd, Subiaco
- West End Deli, 95 Carr St, West Perth, tel: +61 (0)8 9328 3605
- John Forrest National Park, Great Eastern Hwy (off Park Rd), tel: +61 (0)8 9298 8344
- City Beach, off West Coast Hwy, Floreat
- Kitsch, 229 Oxford St, Leederville, tel: +61 (0)8 9242 1229

SUNDAY

- Station Street Markets, 52 Station St, Subiaco
- Zara Bryson, 2/502 Hay St, Subiaco, tel: +61 (0)8 9381 8669
- Subiaco Bookshop, 113 Rokeby Rd, Subiaco, tel: +61 (0)8 9382 1945
- Café Café, Shop 20, 29 Station St, Subiaco, tel: +61 (0)8 9388 9800
- Little Caesars, 127 Oxford St, Leederville, tel: +61 (0)8 9444 0499
- Jus Burgers, 743 Newcastle St, Leederville, tel: +61 (0)8 9228 2230
- About Bike Hire, Point Fraser Reserve, (Causeway Carpark), 1-7 Riverside Dr, tel: +61 (0)8 9221 2665
- Boatshed Café, Coode St Jetty, South Perth, tel: +61 (0)8 9474 1314
- Herdsman Fresh, 140 William St, tel: +61 (0)8 9215 0200
- Somerville Auditorium, 35 Stirling Hwy, Nedlands, tel: +61 (0)8 6488 2000 (Perth Festival)
- The Moon Café, 2/323 William St, Northbridge, tel: +61 (0)8 9328 7474
- Luna Cinemas, 155 Oxford St, Leederville, tel +61 (0)8 9444 4056
- Sayers, 224 Carr Pl, Leederville, tel: +61 (0)8 9227 0429
- Clarence’s, 566 Beaufort St, Mt Lawley, tel: +61 (0)8 9228 9474
- The Pony Club, 620 Beaufort St, Mt Lawley, tel: +61 (0)8 9228 8801