Tiger Tales

Friday Saturday Sunday in Jakarta

FRIDAY

6PM Put on something smart and make your way to SHY Rooftop in trendy Kemang for some cocktails before Friday traffic turns for the worse. Situated atop the über-hip glass-and-steel Papilion building, this place is popular with hipsters, models, designers and anyone on the rich list. Sip a lychee martini as you watch the city’s beautiful people pour in, all immaculately turned out even after sitting in the crazy traffic.

8PM Right below is the Anouska Hempel- designed SHY fine dining restaurant. But if paying Rp 680,000 ++ (S$100/A$81) for the degustation menu (Rp 1,426,000++/ S$212/A$170 with wine pairing) is too much for you, walk through Kemang for other dining options. Koi is good for European, Asian and fusion dishes and to-die-for desserts (their dark chocolate tart with homemade mint ice cream is divine), or the perennial favourite Payon for reasonably priced light and tasty Indonesian fare (try their satay and the vegetarian osengan kecipir) in a traditional Javanese setting with a nice outdoor garden. Bring mosquito repellent.

11PM Jakarta has a good underground music scene. Check out the hipster website www.dailywhatnot.com for the night’s events. If nothing interests you, brave the traffic for some after dinner drinks at Kampus, a revolving alfresco lounge on the top floor of Menara Imperium in the embassy-lined Kuningan area for a great 360° view of the city with its bright lights and crawling traffic down below.

SATURDAY

6AM It’s early but it’s worth the trouble. Many businesses and bakeries buy their cakes from what is probably the world’s largest and only cake market. Bursa Kue Subuh (“Dawn cake exchange”) sells literally thousands of traditional and Western cakes at delightfully cheap prices from midnight to 7am right in front of the popular Senen market.

7AM If you’re still not full from gorging yourself on cakes, a nice, piping hot bubur ayam (Indonesian chicken congee) will prepare you for the long day ahead. At Jalan Tanjung, in the old money neighbourhood of Menteng, find the breakfast crowd swarming around the anonymous wooden cart dishing away bowls of congee topped with shredded fried chicken, crackers and broth. Add some sambal (chilli paste) for that extra oomph.

8AM It’s time for some history lessons. Go to the Fatahillah Square in Kota Tua (Old Town). The square itself is surrounded by museums housed in colonial buildings, cheap street food and trinkets. Find the chess guy. If you can defeat him in three steps, you win two packs of kretek (clove cigarettes). If you don’t smoke and chess bores you, approach the rows of vintage bicycles for rent. Take a guided bike tour (Rp 20,000/S$2/$A2) per bike or a two-hour tour with guide (Rp 150,000/ S$22/$A18 with an English-speaking guide) of some iconic landscapes that are part of the city’s history as a bustling port: the Sunda Kelapa harbour has traditional Phinisi boats from Sulawesi, an old spice warehouse that’s now a Maritime Museum, Toko Merah where the Dutch slaughtered thousands of Chinese rebels, and the fish market. A lively fish auction is held at 7pm.

10AM Indonesia is famous for its coffee, so you must buy some java when you’re in Java. Toko Warung Tinggi in Chinatown has been selling quality beans since 1878. They have eight blends, ground on the spot after purchase. The cheapest is Robusta at Rp 60,000/kg and the most expensive is the infamous kopi luwak (civet cat coffee).

11AM A short journey away from Chinatown is the Museum Nasional. It has a permanent collection of old maps, fossils, prehistoric and colonial artefacts, antique textiles and ceramics from all over the country. Look for the oldest inscription found in the country amongst the Hindu and Buddhist statues, jewellery, ceremonial paraphernalia from the Classical period (5-15 AD). The Indonesian Heritage Society has free guided tours in English every last Saturday of the month. Aside from sporadic temporary exhibitions, the museum also has a modern and contemporary art gallery in its grounds.

1PM Now make your way for yet another cultural experience, this time in culinary form. In general, restaurants serving Padang food from West Sumatra are the definitive fast food joints: the minute you sit yourself, waiters will deftly balance numerous plates of food on both arms and hands before laying them down in front of you. A culinary Cirque de Soleil, if you will. You only pay for what you eat, and for the ultimate eating experience, shun the cutlery and use your hands. Sarimande not only has classic Padang fare like gulai ayam (chicken curry) but also dishes with a modern twist like rendang unagi (eel cooked in coconut milk and spices). They have menus in English, and each dish is less than Rp 20,000/S2.97/A$2.38.

3PM Tummies full, head to Taman Mini Indonesia Indah (TMII) on the outskirts of Jakarta. If you’re new to Indonesia, this park is a fine place to get a good grasp of the country as it showcases the diverse culture of the land. Highlights include a bird park with a walk-in aviary, numerous museums, a small-scale model of the Borobudur heritage site and 33 pavilions depicting 33 provinces with full-scale traditional house replicas complete with displays of the lifestyle, traditional dresses, tools and tourist destinations of the area.

8PM Although it might not feel like it, Jakarta is a coastal city. Which is evidenced by the fact that the city is crammed with good seafood restaurants. An old stalwart is Pondok Aroma Laut. Fresh seafood is grilled to order, and price is per ounce although still very reasonable. If you prefer noodles instead, try Bakmi GM. The original shop still exists and is as popular as ever. Don’t miss their fried rice and fried wonton.

10PM Get ready for some hard partying by heading back to Fatahillah Square to knock back cocktails at the Churchill Bar on the second floor of the elegant Café Batavia, a lovingly restored colonial building. But if you want that extra shot of energy from a wholesome traditional brew, try a glass of “STMJ” (warm milk mixed vigorously with ginger, honey and fresh free-range egg yolk) from the 24-hour street stalls in the area. It tastes like thickened milk with ginger syrup.

11PM “Once inside, you can never tell whether it’s day or night outside,” promises a regular. That’s Stadium for you: four floors of clubbing heaven (the top floor is the most outrageous), open nonstop from Thursday night until Monday morning. It’s crazy, unapologetic, and its clientele – gay, straight or undecided, celebrities, shady characters, locals and expats alike – cut loose like it’s 1999. If you’re feeling peckish after dancing all-night, Kwang Tung serves huge bowls of Hong Kong-style congee (turtle, abalone, vegetarian and seafood).

SUNDAY

10AM If you've managed to drag yourself out of bed after last night's partying, have brunch at Social House, located inside Harvey Nichols at Grand Indonesia. Pick a seat near the windows, where you can watch the iconic sight of the Thamrin thoroughfare with its welcome statue and fountain while pecking at your eggs benedict. Every second and last Sunday of the month is a car-free day in this area until noon, so you also get the rare sight of bicycles roaming the otherwise empty streets.

11AM Fully sated, it's now shopping time. Check out oh-so-hip young designers at Level One, a showcase of Indonesian talent, not far from Harvey Nichols. Look for Abacus for accessories and shoes, Silla & Harrington for interesting homeware from Solo and Bali, and Damn! I Love Indonesia for trendy shirts with an Indonesian theme. Still in the same mall, cross to the west side for some handicraft shopping at AlunAlun Indonesia. You'll find anything and everything here: fashion, furniture, jewellery, batik (Javanese cloth), homewares, music, books, jamu (herbal tonic), bath products. It's pricier than the other craft centres, but offers a fabulous mix of modern and traditional designs.

2 PM All that shopping, biking, dancing, eating and walking takes a toll on the body. It's time to relax. Taman Sari Spa has an amazing range of traditional treatments for men and women of all ages (inside tip for the ladies: ask the staff to explain the Ratus treatment and try not to blush!). Try not to fall asleep during the three-and-a-half-hourlong Total Relaxation Getaway package (Rp 580,000/S$86.23/A$69.16) as they knead and pummel your sore muscles. Before heading out to the airport, have an early dinner at Lara Jonggrang for Indonesian food in an old house filled with original antiques. The waiters can either hail or call a taxi for you, and the average travel time from here to the airport is 45 minutes.

MY PERFECT FRIDAY NIGHT

“My friends and I check out Twitter or local magazines for the lowdown on the latest restaurant in town. From one of these food hunts, we really liked Holycow Steak in Radio Dalam. It’s a humble establishment yet it tastes as good as any upscale steakhouse. After dinner we catch a movie at Blitz Megaplex. Their caramel popcorn is the perfect movie snack! Late-night coffee runs to the 24-hour Starbucks or Anomali Coffee end the night.” Adelia Ogantini, diplomat

MY PERFECT SATURDAY

"After a busy work week, I spend my Saturday indulging in some gluttony by exploring Jakarta's great culinary scene. The day should start with a few plates of dim sum at Lotus Court, where known public figures are often seen enjoying the hugely popular chicken feet. Sate Pak Bustaman, located under the elevated railtracks, is perfect for lunch, but instead of satay I would order their goat marrow soup. Sucking the marrow dry from the bones while trains rumble overhead makes for a surreal lunch. Dinner is at Sop Kaki Sapi H. Agus, for a hearty and hardcore meal of rice and beef offal soup (with more marrow!). To cap it off, my friends and I often belt out some tunes at T-Rex Karaoke at Grand Indonesia." Aryanto Nugroho, advertising executive

MY PERFECT SUNDAY

I start the day early at 6am, and I take advantage of Car Free Day by jogging through the empty Sudirman Street. I have my post-workout gelato at Ragusa, an ice-cream place that has been around since 1932, followed by a picnic brunch in Suropati Park, while listening to the Taman Suropati Chamber Community play their Sunday morning recital to get my creative juices going. Then it’s off to Kamar workshop to work on new ideas and designs with my partner. Later during the day I make my way to Mal Ambasador for DVDs or random knick-knacks. Arie Triono, owner of Kamar online

5 IDEAS FOR S$50 OR LESS

1 Get a creambath, an hour-long head massage with fortified cream which will leave your hair silky smooth for days. Every salon offers this unisex treatment, even humble neighbourhood salons. Pay Rp 14,000/S$2.80/$A2) at Johnny Andrean, a popular chain found at most malls across the city.

2 Dunia Fantasi amusement park is massive fun with some daredevil rides. A weekday admission ticket is Rp 133,000 per person ($S20/A$16), weekend Rp 163,000/ S$24/$A19. Jln Pantai Indah, Ancol, tel: +62 (0)21 64712000

3 Stuff yourself silly with quality international food at the lunch buffet at Syailendra Restaurant at JW Mariott for Rp 288,000 per person (S$43/A$34). Jln Lingkar Mega Kuningan Kav E1.2, tel: +62  
(0)21 5798 8888

4 Have a go-kart race in the city at Speedy Karting. Pay Rp 40,000/S$6/$A5 for five minutes on weekdays, add an extra Rp 5,000/ S$0.74/$A0.60 during weekends and holidays. Bring your own balaclava and gloves so you don’t have to pay extra. Hanggar Teras, Jln Gatot Subroto Kav.72, tel: +62 (0)21 7918 4674

5 Grab some supplies from the many supermarkets at Sabang, walk to the National Monument park in Merdeka Square, and have a picnic in Indonesia’s very own Hyde Park, an oasis smack dab in the city centre. Jln Pelataran Merdeka.

TOP 5 SHOPPING SPOTS

1 JLN SURABAYA
Spot the real antique amid reproductions at this small strip famous for being an “antique market”. Vintage vinyl albums are the real treasure. Bargain hard.

2 MAL AMBASADOR
Seek and ye shall find: cheap electronics, software, work and play fashion amidst the crowd and myriads of merchandise. Again, bargain hard. Jln Prof Dr Satrio.

3 GRAND INDONESIA
If you only have time for one mall, this should do. A massive complex divided into East and West malls, it has luxury fashion (Harvey Nichols, Chanel, and the like) and high street, souvenir shopping (AlunAlun Indonesia). Gramedia bookstore stocks English books and publications, Blitz Megaplex shows the latest Hollywood blockbusters and independent world cinema. Jln MH Thamrin 1.

4 TAMAN PURING
You’ll find secondhand and new bargains in a traditional market setting, from watches, shoes, bags, specs. Practice the art of good-natured haggling. Jln Kiai Maja, Kebayoran Baru.

5 KEMANG
The trendiest precinct in town, the streets are lined with cool shops, cafes, restaurants and hair salons. JPC is good for cameras, the Bali-based Biasa has divine fashion and the coffee at Tornado kicks Starbucks to the curb.

WHERE TO STAY

* BUDGET
Formule 1 is part of the reliable Accor group, and although their rooms are slightly on the small side, they can take up to three people per room and have all the mod cons.

Its central location is conveniently close to ATMs, supermarkets, pharmacy, cheap eats and a small park. Rp 360,000/S$54/$A43 per room without breakfast. Jln HOS Cokroaminoto No. 79, tel 021 3918007, www.accorhotels.com

* MID-RANGE
Its Chinatown location means this boutique hotel, part of Design Hotels, is within walking distance to a dizzying array of great food: there’s a whole gamut of cuisines, from assorted Chinese food cultures to familiar international to fiery South-East Asian. Rooms with breakfast start from US$85++/ S$114/$A91 weekdays and US$ 70++/S$94/$A75 on weekends. Jln Pecenongan Kav 7-17, tel: +62 021 2316008, www.alilahotel.com/jakarta

* BLOW-OUT
Staying at The Dharmawangsa is is like staying at a relative’s home. Albeit a rich one, of course. Located in the leafy, posh residential area in South Jakarta, the hotel combines Dutch colonial architecture and Majapahit culture in their interior design. Service is discreet and their spa is top notch. The presidential suite occupies the entire top floor and has two private terraces and a plunge pool. Rooms start from US$340++/S$454/$A364, including breakfast and 24-hour butler service. Jln Brawijaya Raya No. 26, tel: +62 021 725 8181, www.the-dharmawangsa.com

CONTACT BOOK

FRIDAY
SHY Rooftop, 5th flThe Papilion, Jln Kemang Raya 45AA, tel: +62 (0)21 719 9921
SHY, 4th flThe Papilion, Jln Kemang Raya 45AA, tel:+62 (0)21 719 9921
Koi, Jln Kemang Raya 72
Payon, Jln Kemang Raya 17, tel: +62 (0)21 719 4826
Kampus, 35th-37th Menara Imperium, Jln HR Rasuna Said Kav.1, tel: +62 (0)21 8378 6001

ADELIA OGANTINI’S FRIDAY
Holycow Steak, Jln Radio Dalam Raya 15
Blitz Megaplex, 8th fl Grand Indonesia West Mall, Jln MH Thamrin 1, tel: +62 (0)21 2358 0200
24-hour Starbucks, Menara Cakrawala, Jln MH Thamrin 9, tel: +62 (0)21 3983 3377
Anomali Coffee, 1st fl Setiabudhi One, Jln HR Rasuna Said Kav 62, tel: 62 (0)21 522 9228

SATURDAY
Bursa Kue Subuh Senen, Jln Pasar Senen
Bubur ayam, Jln Tanjung, Menteng
Toko Warung Tinggi, Jln Tangki Sekolah 26, tel : +62 (0)21 625 6843
Museum & Galeri Nasional, Jln Medan Merdeka Barat 12, tel: +62 (0)21 386 8172
Indonesian Heritage Society, 17th flSentral Senayan 1, Jln Asia-Afrika 8, tel: +62 (0)21 572 5870, www.heritagejkt.org
Sarimande, SBPU Pertamina, Jln HR Rasuna Said Kav X2/2, tel: 62 (0)21 5292 2177
Taman Mini Indonesia Indah, Jln Raya TMII, tel: +62 (0)21 840 9214
Pondok Aroma Laut, Jln Cideng Timur 51, tel: +62 (0)21 344 0322
Bakmi GM, Jln Gajah Mada 92, tel: +62 (0)21 633 4689
Cafe Batavia, Jln Pintu Besar Utara 14, tel: +62 (0)21 691 3351
Stadium, Jln Hayam Wuruk 111 Blok FF - JJ, tel: +62 (0)21 626 3323
Kwang Tung, Jln Pecenongan 67 I, tel: +62 (0)21 386 5688

ARYANTO NUGROHO’S SATURDAY
Lotus Court, Pondok Indah Plaza 2, Blok A Unit 21-22, Jln Metro Pondok Indah, tel: +62 (0)21 750 0602
Sate Pak Bustaman, under the railtracks in Jln Proklamasi
Sop Kaki Sapi & Sumsum H.Agus, Jln Barito I, near the fruit stalls
T-Rex, Level 3A Entertainment District, Grand Indonesia West Mall, Jln MH Thamrin 1, tel: +62 (0)21 2358 0855

SUNDAY
Social House, 1st flHarvey Nichols, Grand Indonesia East Mall, Jln MH Thamrin 1, tel: +62 (0)21 2358 1818
Level One, 1st flGrand Indonesia East Mall, Jln MH Thamrin 1
AlunAlun Indonesia, 3rd fl Grand Indonesia West Mall, Jln MH Thamrin 1
Taman Sari Royal Heritage Spa, Jln KH Wahid Hasyim 133, tel:+62 (0)21 314 3585
Lara Jonggrang, Jln Teuku Cik Di Tiro 4, tel: +62 (0)21 315 3252

ARIE TRIONO’S SUNDAY
Ragusa, Jln Veteran I/10, tel: +62 (0)21 384 9123
Taman Suropati, Jln Imam Bonjol
Mal Ambasador, Jln Prof Dr Satrio