Tiger Tales

Friday Saturday Sunday in Darwin

Kick back in the tropics and see the best of this easygoing city

FRIDAY

6PM Darwin Harbour faces west, and so just about every night of the year you can catch a sun-kissed horizon – preferably with sundowner in hand. During September and October, the semi-cloudy skies of the monsoon build-up ensure that no two sunsets are the same. Many Darwinites indulge at a seaside location, the Trailer Boat Club being one of the best. If your appetite catches up with you, there’s a sizeable pub menu. As an out-of-state guest you’ll need to sign in at the door, but fear not for the only dress code here is “as relaxed as possible!”

7.30PM In Baz Luhrmann’s epic film Australia, there are scenes showing Darwin’s outdoor movie “hall” as it was during World War II. Today, the Deckchair Cinema keeps the tradition alive by offering nightly movies under the stars. With a programme by the Darwin Film Society, the cinema screens movies to satisfy every taste, from foreign and artistic to downright crowd-pleasing. The full programme is available online, and there’s a small bar plus food service before each movie. Perfect for decompressing after your flight.

10PM Continue exploring with a stroll back up to the CBD. From here, you can relax with a drink in Kitty O’Shea’s courtyard, where there’s usually a band on Friday nights. If you’re especially keen to get into the local music scene, head over to Brown’s Mart at the end of the Smith Street Mall. This small- scale heritage venue hosts a wide range of theatre and live music performances and workshops. Pick up a copy of local arts mag Off the Leash to check what’s on and you might be surprised at what you discover.

MY PERFECT FRIDAY NIGHT

A great Friday night in Darwin brings a number of possibilities but usually evenings start off with a great meal. For something casual, I head out to Parap to get a table at Prickles Mexican Restaurant. It’s an institution in Darwin and has been around as long as I can remember. I recommend the Great Balls of Fire. Once full, your best option is to head into town to the Happy Yess, one of Darwin’s only original music venues. It operates Thursday to Sunday and there is always some great new music to discover. Having just moved into bigger premises, the venue is a highlight of the Darwin music scene. For a midnight snack following a night of original music, the only place to go is Uncle Sam’s. Mark Smith, Manager of Music NT

BIG NIGHT OUT

The amazing dry season weather is ideal for some serious late-night partying in Darwin. Whether you’re a visitor, a local or something in between, here are the hottest spots to dance the night away.

Darwin’s biggest, grittiest and loudest venue is the Discovery nightclub. Multiple floors, VIP rooms and a gigantic dance floor make this the place to go for people who want to shake their booty. 89 Mitchell St, tel: +61 (0)8 8942 3300

Over at the Skycity Darwin casino, Sandbar is the place to enjoy post-dinner cocktails. With a fantastic location overlooking Mindil Beach, it has just about everything you could want, including live acts and the occasional DJ. Skycity Darwin, Gilruth Ave, The Gardens, tel: +61 (0)8 8943 8888

A long-standing Darwin institution, The Vic (short for Victoria Hotel) has survived three cyclones and a war- era bombing with most of its original structure intact. Fittingly, today it is the nightclub that presses on latest into the evening. 27 Smith St, The Mall, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 4011

Although there isn’t a dance floor at Char @ Admiralty, those seeking something a bit more low key, entertainment-wise, should check this place out. It’s one of the city’s most popular steak houses. With a brilliant open-air terrace facing Darwin’s Esplanade area, it’s a fantastic spot to enjoy a celebratory dinner before hitting the clubs. 70 Esplanade, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 4544

SATURDAY

6.30AM If you decided to take it easy last night and not follow the Friday pub-crawl crowd, you should be in good shape to go on a half-day fishing charter early Saturday morning. You may be lucky enough to snag the territory’s famous barramundi, but out in the open water you’re far more likely to catch black jewfish (the biggest of which pull like a road train), golden snapper or threadfin salmon. The skippers of Equinox Charters know the outer harbour extremely well and have a stack of their favourite fishing spots saved in their GPS-enabled sonars. Call them to find out if you can join a previously booked charter.

NOON For lunch, head over to the Parap Markets. Start with a Vietnamese rice paper roll with prawn and barbecued pork, chase it with a Cambodian rice pancake and top it all off with Thai banana fritters. Many Darwinites also swear by Mary’s laksa – an Indonesian coconut concoction featuring two varieties of noodle and your choice of barbecued pork, chicken, seafood or tofu. Look for the busiest noodle stall in the heart of the food market. After lunch, check out unique craft goods and Indigenous art.

1PM Judging by the cover of the local newspaper, you’d swear that the Northern Territory’s saltwater crocodiles (aka “‘salties”) cause the biggest stir in town. At Crocosaurus Cove, you can see these stars of the Northern Territory up close. If you’re the type who thinks bungee jumping is good fun, the ominously named “Cage of Death” may be right up your alley. Once in the water, you can go nose-to-snout with Burt, the 5.1m, 700kg co-star of Crocodile Dundee from the safety of an unbreakable acrylic glass cage. Those less inclined to jumping in the water with deadly reptiles can check him out from outside the enclosures.

3PM Once you’re heart rate drops, head over to the Darwin Waterfront Precinct for a quick history lesson. Darwin was devastated by Japanese bombers on 19 February 1942, an event depicted in the movie Australia. After the attack, the city’s World War II Oil Storage Tunnels were used to protect its military oil reserves. After that, a two- minute walk takes you to the waterfront. The wave lagoon is a fun family destination, with body-boards provided onsite. For tranquillity and more space to splash around, try the saltwater lagoon. Despite the blue water surrounding Darwin, it is not safe to swim in the ocean. Warnings about saltwater crocodiles and box jellyfish should be taken seriously!

6PM Cocktails? Along with a fine ocean view, Sandbar has the art of mixology down pat. It’s the main bar at Skycity, Darwin’s only casino. There are regular live performances and the occasional DJ set. Late October means it’s mango season in Darwin, so mango daiquiris are a good bet.

8PM You’re in for a tough dinner choice now. Three options stand out depending on your budget and taste in Asian food. Thailicious has a scrumptious and nutritious Massaman beef curry, served with crispy onions on top. This open-air restaurant also has an authentic shoes-off seating area furnished with triangle pillows. For the Turkish touch, the recently opened Alaturka has made a splash on the Darwin dining scene. Or if you’re after upscale and atmospheric, try Jimmy Shu’s award-winning Hanuman restaurant. A delectable wine list combined with a menu of Indian, Nonya and Thai cuisine makes this eatery a sure-fire hit.

10PM Time to mix it up with the crowds! The Mitchell Street bars are the place for a power pub crawl. Wisdom serves up loud doses of rock music by local acts and there’s a gorgeous courtyard and a well-stocked bar. If it’s bumping bodies you’re after, Shenannigans is the spot for you. Nightly live music at Mitchell Street’s busiest

Irish pub means that this place is often rocking right up until closing time. For some alternative entertainment, Throb nightclub sees clubbers of all orientations mixing it up on the dance floor, and there are even twice-nightly shows (10.30pm and 1.30am) ruled by flamboyant entertainers.

INDIGENOUS CULTURE SATURDAY

Indigenous culture is wonderfully accessible in Darwin, and adds to the character of the city. For a perfect Saturday exploring the Indigenous side of Darwin, I’d first consult with Indigenous guide Robbie Mills. He runs two-hour walking tours of Darwin under the name Batji Tours. Next, I’d spend a few hours contemplating the art in the Telstra National Aboriginal & Torres Strait Islander Art Award competition at the museum, which will remain on display through September and October. Having brushed up my knowledge of Indigenous art, I’d check out the galleries and see if anything takes my fancy. Three good galleries in the Parap Shopping Village come to mind, including Outstation, Tiwi Art and Nomad Art. Purchasing from a reputable gallery ensures that your money supports artists who earn their livelihoods from their work. Ali Copley, Indigenous Arts Marketing Officer, Top End Arts

TOP SHOPS

1 Dozens of vendors trot out their handcrafted wares for the Mindil Beach Markets. After catching a spectacular sunset on Mindil Beach, explore dozens of market stalls. If you can’t find something to take home here, Darwin probably doesn’t have it. Mindil Beach, The Gardens, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 3454, www.mindil.com.au, Thursdays and Sundays (dry season only) 5pm-10pm

2 Held every Saturday during both the wet and dry seasons, Parap Markets are smaller but delightfully intimate. Also, there’s more of Darwin’s local flavour at Parap. Shoppers tend to rave about the dresses available from Black Bambu, with materials sourced from Indonesia. They’re perfect for Darwin’s tropical climate. Parap Village Market, Parap, tel: +61 (0)8 8942 0805, Saturdays 8am-2pm

3 Centrally located, the Smith Street Mall sells products of just about every description, from Aboriginal art to books to luxury goods. A few gems stand out: The Me and My Llama shoe store has some original designs targeting the upmarket shopper. A truly Territorian souvenir or accessory can be had at di Croco, where all the luxury goods are made from farmed crocodile skins. Me and My Llama, Star Village, 32 Smith St, The Mall, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 9778; di Croco Boutique, Shop 2, Paspaley Pearls Building, 19 The Mall, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 4470

4 Cavenagh Street plays host to a range of established shops that operate year-round, wet or dry. Elevated is a souvenir and craft jewellery shop with an excellent selection of souvenirs and gifts, sourced from around Asia. Humidity has some priceless gear for children and infants that’s sure to bring out the cluckiness in just about everyone. Viva La Body, which also has a store at the airport, stocks a unique range of handbags made from recycled tyres along with a host of other gifts and accessories. Elevated, Cnr of Knuckey & Cavenagh Sts, tel: +61 (0)8 8942 2858; Humidity, 34 Cavenagh St, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 8100, Viva La Body, 49 Cavenagh St, tel: +61 (0)8 8947 0432

SUNDAY

8AM It’s time to get out of town for a day trip to fully experience the natural beauty of the Northern Territory. It will require some planning but you’ll be glad you did it. A rental car is definitely needed today so you can go where you please and at your own pace. Don’t forget to prepare a cold bag with biscuits and dips, and some cool refreshments. Many of the territory’s bottle shops are closed on Sundays.

9AM Before you leave town, hit the Sunday Rapid Creek Markets. Here you’ll discover Darwin’s diversity, with Indian, Chinese, Thai and Indonesian food stalls and vegetable vendors all hawking their wares. Paw paw salad makes for a yummy light lunch, while a banana sticky-rice wrapped in a leaf is the perfect takeaway treat. Jay’s Coffee Bar and Christo’s Coffee are the best places to grab a Sunday cuppa as most city cafés are closed today.

10AM Follow the Stuart Highway straight out of town. In just 90 minutes you’ll reach the fantastic swimming holes of Litchfield National Park. Turn off the highway at Batchelor, then make for the park. Hopefully you brought your swimmers and sunscreen, as Litchfield has several places where you can take a dip in crocodile-free water holes. The water is the perfect temperature, as soothing as a spa in any five-star venue.

NOON Your first stop should be Florence Falls, home to walking trails around a plunge pool and a few picnic spots, too.

If it’s already quite busy, walk along the marked track towards the Buley Rockholes and stop at the one of the many creeks along the way. Buley itself sees slightly less tourist traffic. If you prefer to get closer to nature and see even fewer tourists, try the relatively unknown and much smaller Green Ant Creek or Tolmer Falls instead of Florence Falls.

2PM For your second stop, drive over to the much larger Wangi Falls. Because of the plunge pool’s size, this place doesn’t seem as crowded as Florence Falls, despite the fact it is even more accessible. There are some electric barbecue facilities here so you can grill some of the food you bought earlier. Finish up your visit with a final dip in the falls before heading back to Darwin.

MY PERFECT SUNDAY

Sundays begin at the delightfully chilled-out Nightcliff Markets, for delicious food like Ken’s Crêpes and a fresh mango smoothie devoured while enjoying the live local music. It’s easy to pass a couple of hours in the surprisingly good Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, followed by coffee at the adjacent Cornucopia Café overlooking the pandanus palms and vibrant blue water. After a leisurely cycle along the foreshore from East Point to Nightcliff, plus a quick cool off at the waterfront Nightcliff Pool, it’s time for a laidback sunset drink at Darwin Ski Club, highlighted by one of the most amazing sunsets you’ll find anywhere in the world. Dinner at the impeccable Pee Wee’s at the Point, including one of their absolutely wicked chocolate desserts, completes my perfect day. Dr Emma Ellis, Royal Darwin Hospital

5PM There’s time for one last hurrah on the water. Try the Duck About Tour, a city tour with a twist – it’s all done in an amphibious vehicle. After a bit of city exploration, the highlight comes when this floating bus plunges directly into the waters of Fannie Bay and cruises out for the sunset. Alternatively, try an eco-sailing tour with City of Darwin Cruises, which feature luxury sailing catamarans and unlimited soft/hard drinks (wine and mid-strength beer). The tours are ecologically certified, with sails being used for part of the cruise to minimise engine use, and the itinerary features a visit to a mangrove forest and a gigantic crocodile trap.

8PM Back on land, your last must-see stop has to be the legendary Mindil Beach Markets, Darwin’s largest and busiest. Held every Thursday and Sunday during the dry season, they offer just about everything you could want. This includes a stunning range of takeaway meals, ranging from mouth-watering Sri Lankan curries to authentic, wood-fired thin-crust pizzas from Pizza a la Cart. You can top it all off with a freshly squeezed juice, and then follow up with any last-minute souvenir shopping. Snag a CD from didgeridoo musician eMDee, whose “high-tech didgeridoo meets drum and bass” sound has taken him Australia-wide.

WHERE TO STAY

BUDGET
Having won the NT’s Brolga Award for Best Backpacker Accommodation several times, Melaleuca on Mitchell sets the bar for budget accommodation in Darwin. With a swimming pool, underground nightclub and a location smack in the middle of Mitchell Street, expect to meet heaps of other travellers and enjoy some serious nights on the town. 52 Mitchell St, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 7800, www.momdarwin.com

MID RANGE
For those willing to spend a bit more on accommodation, the Alkira Darwin is home to resort-style motel rooms that offer a more local experience than the mainstream CBD offerings. The best feature is the Alkira’s proximity to Darwin’s famous Parap Markets – which are literally around the corner. A stay here represents a choice to stay out of the hustle and bustle of the CBD. 52 Gregory St, Parap, tel: +61 (0)8 8919 3100, www.alkiradarwin.com

BLOW OUT
Just over a year old, the Vibe Hotel and the Medina Grand Darwin Waterfront are two of Darwin’s newest luxury offerings (both are owned by the Toga Group and have other branches in Australia). Their exclusive locations within the Waterfront Precinct make these hotels stand out. They feel secluded, yet are still within five minutes’ walking distance of the city centre. While the Vibe offers a hotel experience, the Medina provides serviced apartments and studios with kitchenettes and laundry facilities. 7 Kitchener Dr, tel: +61 (0)8 8982 9998~9, www.vibehotel.com.au, www.. medina.com.au

BICYCLE TOUR OF DARWIN FOR ONLY A$20/S$25

1 Darwin is small enough to explore by bicycle. First, head to The Scooter Shop in the CBD to rent a mountain bike, which will cost you just A$20/S$25 for the day or A$30/S$37 for 24 hours. A map is included with your rental. 9 Daly St, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 2434

2 Start by riding towards the George Brown Botanical Gardens. Once there you’ll find a shady rainforest area with well- marked concrete paths, plus a bit of easy trail riding. Stop and learn about the tropical environment of the territory and contemplate the incredible greenery.

3 Continue down Gardens Road and you’ll reach Mindil Beach. On non-market days, this is a pleasant place for a picnic. On market days, come at sunset to find plenty of bargain-priced meals. Ride to the northern end of the beach to a marked path leading up a short but steep hill to a lookout. Then head back down the other side to Fannie Bay. On the right, you’ll see the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. 19 Conacher St, Fannie Bay, tel: +61
(0)8 8999 8264

4 Keep going until you reach the Trailer Boat Club, where you’ll rejoin the main road. Ride up the hill until you see the Fannie Bay Gaol on your right. Entry is free. The facility does not function as a gaol any longer, but instead plays host to several displays on local history. East Point Rd, Fannie Bay, tel: +61
(0)8 8999 8201

5 Wrap up your bicycle tour with a ride around East Point Reserve. It’s a brilliant place to catch a sunset. If it’s hot you can take a dip in man-made Lake Alexander, where many local families gather to spend a weekend relaxing.

CONTACT BOOK

Darwin Trailer Boat Club, Fannie Bay, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 6749, www.. dtbc.com.au

Deckchair Cinema, Off Kitchener Dr, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 0700, www.. deckchaircinema.com

Kitty O’Shea’s, 39 Mitchell St, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 7947

Brown’s Mart, 1 Smith St, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 5522

Off the Leash, www.theleash.com. au

SATURDAY

Equinox Charters, Shop 2, 64 Marina Blvd, Cullen Bay, tel: +61 (0)8 8942 2199

Parap Markets, Parap Village Shops, Parap, Saturday 7am-2pm, tel: +61 (0)8 8942 0805

Crocosaurus Cove, 58 Mitchell St, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 7522

World War II Oil Storage Tunnels, Kitchener Dr, tel: +61 (0)8 8985 6333

Wave Lagoon, Darwin Waterfront Precinct, tel: +61 (0)8 8999 5155

Sandbar, Skycity Darwin, Gilruth Ave, Mindil Beach, tel: +61 (0)8 8943 8888

Thailicious, 69 Mitchell St, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 9966

Alaturka, 11 Knuckey St, tel: +61 0403 271 270

Hanuman, 93 Mitchell St, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 3500

Wisdom, 48 Mitchell St, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 4866

Shenannigans, 69 Mitchell St, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 2100

Throb, 64 Smith St, tel: +61 (0)8 8942 3435

SUNDAY

Rapid Creek Markets, Rapid Creek Shopping Village, Trower Rd

Litchfield National Park, www.. nt.gov.au/nreta/parks/

Duck About Tours, pickup at Cnr of Smith and Bennett Sts, tel: +61 04303 542 230

City of Darwin Cruises, Restaurant Blvd, Cullen Bay Marina, tel: +61 0417 855 829

Mindil Markets, Mindil Beach, Thursdays and Sundays, 5pm-10pm, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 3454, www.mindil. com.au

eMDee, www.rawdidge.com

Darwin Airport Shuttle, 8/69 Mitchell St, tel: +61 (0)8981 5066

MARK SMITH’S PERFECT FRIDAY NIGHT

● Prickles Mexican Restaurant, 9 Parap Pl, Parap, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 2641

● Happy Yess, 1 Smith St, www.. happyyess.com

● Uncle Sam’s, 109 Smith St, tel: +61
(0)8 8981 3797

ALI COPLEY’S INDIGENOUS ARTS SATURDAY

Batji Tours, www.batjitours.com

Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, 19 Conacher St, Fannie Bay, tel: +61 (0)8 8999 8264

Outstation, 2 Parap Pl, Parap, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 4822

Tiwi Art, 3/3 Vickers St, Parap, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 3593

Nomad Art, 4/1 Vickers St, Parap, tel: +61 (0)8 8941 1018

EMMA ELLIS’S PERFECT SUNDAY

Nightcliff Markets, Nightcliff Shopping Village, Sundays 8am-2pm

Cornucopia Café, Museum and Art Gallery of the NT, 19 Conacher St, Fannie Bay, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 1002

Nightcliff Pool, 259 Casuarina Dr, Nightcliff, tel: +61 (0)8 8985 1682

Darwin Ski Club, 20 Conacher St, Fannie Bay, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 6630

Pee Wee’s at the Point, East Point Reserve, tel: +61 (0)8 8981 6868