Tiger Tales

Friday, Saturday, Sunday in Kuala Lumpur

Pack your appetite and head to this food-obsessed Malaysian city

PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID HAGERMAN, PHOTOLIBRARY

FRIDAY

6PM Kick off your weekend with a killer cocktail to go with the killer views of the sunset over KL’s beloved Petronas Twin Towers at Sky Bar, on the 33rd floor of the Traders Hotel. Getting close to the world’s tallest twin towers is dazzling, but don’t accidentally stagger backwards into the bar’s full-size swimming pool. Try the espresso martini (RM30/S$13/ A$11) if you need an energy boost before dinner.

8PM Malaysia’s ethnic blend of Chinese, Malays and Indians has made KL Asia’s capital city of gastronomy, and your first stop should be the night market Jalan Alor where you can feast for a few ringgit on char siew barbecued pork or steaming plates of chilli fried squid. Try the Jalan Alor Nasi Lemak stall for its meltingly rich beef rendang, or the fabulous Wong Ah Wah Chicken stall – just look for the queue of fans waiting for their wings.

11PM After the raucousness of Jalan Alor, finish your evening at the low-key and laidback No Black Tie, just a five-minute walk away. This atmospheric little Japanese restaurant and bar doubles as one of the best places to hear live music in KL, from smooth and serious jazz to show tunes belted out by drag queens.

SATURDAY

9AM Get a healthy start to the day by heading to KL’s lungs, the Lake Gardens, which are walking distance from KL Sentral. Crowded from dawn to dusk with runners, tai qi enthusiasts, couples in white gowns and tuxes looking for a photogenic backdrop for their wedding photos, and city dwellers seeking a brush with nature, the Lake Gardens are the city’s most popular park. Built around an artificial lake and spread over 920,000sqm, the park is home to botanical gardens, a herb garden, two children’s playgrounds and rowboats for hire. Keep an eye out for the park’s resident monkeys and monitor lizards.

10.30AM A 20-minute walk (or a short taxi ride) away is Brickfields, home to KL’s vibrant Indian community. Among the sari stalls and sweet shops is Annalakshmi, a southern Indian vegetarian restaurant where even the most ardent carnivore won’t feel hard done by. Flavoursome chick-pea curries sprinkled with coriander and vegetable fritters accompanied by tangy thin dal are served buffet-style. Best of all, diners can leave feeling both satisfied and virtuous as the restaurant is run by volunteers, with all money going to charity – you simply pay what you like.

NOON Jump in a taxi and head to KL’s atmospheric Chinatown. Make your first stop at Sze Ya Temple,the city’s oldest Chinese temple, which dates back to 1882. This ornate and compact temple is surprisingly untouristy. Most visitors are local devotees who come to have their fortunes told or to leave offerings. After exiting onto Jalan Tun HS Lee, discover clear evidence of KL’s multiculturalism by visiting the Sri Mahamariamman Temple, back in the middle of Chinatown. This Hindu temple was built in 1873, and after you've left your shoes at the door and passed under its towering five-tiered gopuram (tower), wander around the compound and marvel at the temple's most precious relic, a large silver chariot.

3PM Need a tea break? If so, combine some rest with a look around one of KL's most beloved homegrown stores, Peter Hoe Beyond. Along with colourful batik bags, cheerful snatches of material and locally made carvings and jewellery, there is an excellent café that serves homemade cakes and freshly squeezed lime juice, which you can sip while reclining on huge silk pillows. This vast warehouse space is on the second floor of a nondescript office building – look for a sign that reads Lee Rubber Building.

5PM Head to Changkat Bukit Bintang for the city's widest selection of watering holes. Oenophiles will love Pinchos, a small and friendly Spanish tapas bar, where you can sip a glass of bone-dry fino sherry while nibbling from a plate of freshly carved jamon Iberico. Or for something livelier, The Social @ Changkat plays old-school rock and has a pool table to pose by.

8PM From the moment you ascend the lantern-lit pathway to the vast wooden door of Tamarind Hill, it's as if you're a world away from the city. This gorgeous space is filled with antiques from Myanmar and Thailand, the same countries that inspire the food. Try the deep-fried cod served with tender cabbage and carrots (RM40/S$17/A$15).

11PM Run by the same people who own Tamarind Hill, late-night spot Luxe Lounge is just steps away but a world apart in terms of ambience – think urban chic with a touch of Scandinavian. Along with at least 50 wines by the glass, there is a mean array of cocktails including the legendary – and downright dangerous – orange brûlée.

SUNDAY

10AM Dark and moody thanks to drapes that remain drawn regardless of conditions outside, chic Chinese eatery Reunion in Bangsar Village II serves up steamer after steamer of delicious dim sum from 10am to 3.30pm daily. Plump har kow, or prawn dumplings (RM9/S$4/ A$3), vie with the fluffy char siu pau, or barbecued pork buns (RM7/S$3/A$3) for the title of dim sum champ, while the combo platters of siew yoke (roast pork), char siu and roast duck are a feast for the eyes and the taste buds. The staff are professional but don't expect much in the way of smiles.

NOON You're already in one of KL's most exclusive shopping centres, so it's worth browsing the shops in Bangsar Village as well as the small streets that surround it. In the mall you'll find mainstream brands like Ted Baker, Zara and Aldo, as well as quirky fashion boutiques like Envee and Kitsch. Outside the mall, visit Luxury Vintage where price-conscious fashionistas can rummage through a wide selection of pre-loved designer bags, sold at great prices.

4PM KL's best museum by far, the delightful Islamic Arts Museum is a must-see, not only for its collection of 7,000 artefacts – which offer fascinating insights into the world of Islamic art – but also for the serenity of the building itself. Make it a point to visit the excellent gift shop for some last-minute souvenirs before jumping in a taxi for the fiveminute ride to KL Sentral, from which you can make your way to the airport.

MY PERFECT FRIDAY

On those rare occasions when I have the weekend off work, Tamarind Hill is my favourite destination for its softly lit, tropical garden – right in the city centre. There’s also Sage for its outstanding French- and Japanese-inspired tasting menu. If I’m feeling energetic, I might head up to Changkat Bukit Bintang for some shots and dancing at Twentyone kitchen + bar. And on the very rare occasions when I pull an all-nighter, I often stop at any one of the 24-hour outdoor mamak stalls just around the corner on Tengkat Tong Shin for some fried noodles and teh tarik. Bagus (good), lah! Laura Kyle, Presenter, Al Jazeera English TV News Network

MY PERFECT SATURDAY

Nowadays it starts with a 6.30am hill walk behind Taman Tun Dr Ismail. After that, it’s a fortifying breakfast – perhaps a spicy nasi lemak at Cengkih. After a mid-morning snooze it’s time for a perfect lunch – a gorgeous sour-fishy assam laksa at O & S in Paramount Garden. In the afternoon it’s time for a spot of writing, and as dusk falls, I’ll go for dinner with my friends. Lately, we’ve been frequenting Canton Fare to indulge in Peking duck and their fantastic pumpkin coated in salted duck’s eggs.

Honey Ahmad, Founder of food website, www.friedchillies.com

BIG NIGHT OUT

You needn’t look too far to find a lively watering hole in KL. Whether you’re looking for slick and swanky or loud and lively, Malaysia’s capital has shaken off its backwater reputation for good.

To live out your Arabian prince or princess fantasies, head to Sultan Lounge in the ritzy confines of the Mandarin Oriental. Book a booth, dress up and strike a pose. Mandarin Oriental Hotel, KLCC, tel: +60 (0)3 2179 8966

Much beloved by KL’s hardcore clubbers, Zouk KL can accommodate 2,000 people in its four themed rooms, and on a hot-and-sweaty weekend night – especially if there’s a world-class DJ behind the decks – you’ll swear you’ve danced up against all of them. 113 Jln Ampang, KLCC, tel: +60 (0)3 2171 1997

Above one of KL’s best French restaurants you’ll find bar lounge and balcony Frangipani, an upmarket venue where chic partygoers pose at the sleek bar and admire themselves in the lounge’s blood-red mirrors. 25 Changkat Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 (0)3 2144 3001

5 TOP SHOPPING MALLS

1 The mall of the moment is the ritzy Pavilion in Bukit Bintang with its 450 outlets, ranging from Burberry to Billabong. A fashionista must-visit. 168 Jln Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 (0)3 2118 8833

2 The Suria KLCC mall beneath the Petronas Twin Towers is perhaps the busiest place in the whole city, with its six floors home to hundreds of stores, a huge cinema, gigantic food court, art gallery and amusement centre. Jln Ampang, tel: +60 (0)3 2382 8448

3 It’s luxury all the way at Starhill Gallery – from international labels such as Bottega Veneta and Louis Vuitton to an exclusive line-up of fine dining restaurants such as Fisherman’s Cove. 181 Jln Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 (0)3 2782 3855

4 South of the city centre is the aptly named Mid Valley Megamall and its more upmarket sister shopping emporium, The Gardens, next door. While the Mega has high-street brands galore and is always jam-packed, The Gardens is a more leisurely experience, complete with helpful concierges and plenty of cafés. Mid Valley City, tel: +60 (0)3 2938 3333

5 Smaller than the mammoth malls listed above, Bangsar Shopping Centre (not to be confused with Bangsar Village) nonetheless boasts nearly 200 outlets, including fashion brand shops and great eateries like Alexis, The Press Room and Japanese favourite Kuriya. 283 Jln Maarof, tel: +60 (0)3 2094 7700

3 IDEAS FOR RM100 OR LESS

1 Fish spas have taken KL by storm, and if your feet have taken a beating, a short session in which doctor fish nibble at your toes might be the answer. The little biters feed off dead skin cells, leaving your skin clean and smooth. There are plenty of spas to choose from, but Kenko has the best reputation. Costs RM38/S$16/A$14 for 30 minutes. Lot 5.01.09, Level 5, Pavilion, Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 (0)3 2141 6651

2 You can’t ignore the Petronas Twin Towers, either literally or metaphorically as they are visible just about everywhere you go. For a change of perspective, grab a set of the free tickets that allow you to stroll on the 41st-floor sky bridge that connects the two towers. A limited number of tickets are issued each day on a first-come, first-served basis – so arrive early. Tel: +60 (0)3 2051 1320

3 Decadence is on the menu if you decide to have afternoon tea at Carcosa Seri Negara, a luxury hotel and the former residence of the British Consul. Pull up a chair in the original drawing room, where white-gloved butlers serve up authentic English afternoon tea, complete with scones and cucumber sandwiches (RM60/ S$26/A$22). Or try the Malaysian version (RM65/S$28/A$24), with dainty sticks of satay and traditional kuah cakes. Available from 3pm–6pm. Taman Tasik Perdana, tel: +60 (0)3 2295 0888

WHERE TO STAY

BUDGET
Sekeping Tenggiri Guesthouse
Located on a quiet, leafy street in Bangsar, this cute and fashionable B&B – which opened this year – instantly filled the gaping hole in the market for an accommodation that is both interesting and affordable.

With just seven industrial-chic guestrooms encircling a small pool, this is a relaxing and unusual place to lay your head. Room rates start at RM200/ S$85/A$72 per night.

48 Jln Tenggiri, Taman Weng Lock, Bangsar, tel: +60 (0)17 207 5977, www.tenggiri.com

MID RANGE
Hotel Maya
Situated in the heart of the KLCC and offering views of the Petronas Twin Towers, this sleek hotel markets itself as a boutique property (albeit with 207 rooms) and its modern design, luxuriously deep baths and rainfall showers inspire plenty of repeat visits. Rates include airport transfers and breakfast. Room rates start at RM700/S$299/A$253 per night.

138 Jln Ampang, KLCC, tel: +60 (0)3 2711 8866, www.hotelmaya.com.my  

BLOW OUT
Mandarin Oriental
The grand dame of KL hotels is also the most luxurious, boasting elegant Old-World interiors that include Nyonya gold-leaf screens, over-stuffed cushions, chaise lounges and custom-carved door handles in every room. Splash out on a premium city-view room to enjoy the awe-inspiring sight of the Petronas Twin Towers. Room rates start at RM900/S$385/ A$326 per night. Kuala Lumpur City Centre, tel: +60 (0)3 2380 8888, www.mandarinoriental.com/kualalumpur

KL FOR KIDS

More than 2,000 exotic and colourfully plumed birds rule the skies at KL Bird Park, the world’s largest free-flight, walk-in aviary. Time your visit with one of the many feeding times and you’ll have parrots and peacocks literally eating out of your hands. The cost is RM42/S$18/A$15 for adults and RM32/S$14/A$12 for kids aged 3–12 (free for kids under 3). 920 Jln Cenderawasih, tel: +60 (0)3 2272 1010

Fulfill your Indiana Jones fantasies at the Forest Research Institute of Malaysia, a nature reserve 20 minutes out of town. It has well-marked nature trails through some spectacular jungle, but don’t miss the chance to get above it all on the thrilling Canopy Walk, set 30m above the ground. It’s RM10/ S$4/A$4 for adults and RM1/S$1/A$1 for children aged 7–12. Park entry is RM1/ S$1/A$1. The canopy walk operates from 9.30am–2.30pm daily except Mon and Fri, tel: +60 (0)3 6279 7677

Cool the kids down at Sunway Lagoon, where the Water Park has relaxing tube rides. Or enjoy a surfing lesson at Sunway Surf Beach. There’s also a Scream Park with shiver-inducing attractions. For something gentler, check out the Animal Park. It’s RM100/S$43/A$36 for adults and RM80/S$34/A$29 for kids. 3 Jln PJS 11/11, Bandar Sunway, Petaling Jaya, tel: +60 (0)3 5639 0000

CONTACT BOOK

FRIDAY

Sky Bar, Level 33, Traders Hotel, KL City Centre, Jln Alor, Off Jln Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 (0)3 2332 9888
No Black Tie, 7 Jln Mesui, Off Jln Nagasari, tel: +60 (0)3 2142 3737  

LAURA KYLE’S FRIDAY NIGHT

Tamarind Hill, 19 Jln Sultan Ismail, tel: +60 (0)3 2148 3200
Sage, 6/F, The Gardens, Mid Valley City, tel: +60 (0)3 2268 1328
Twentyone kitchen + bar, 20-1 Changkat Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 (0)3 2142 0021  

SATURDAY

Lake Gardens, Jln Perdana (also accessible on foot from KL Sentral and the National Museum), tel: +60 (0)3 2691 6011
Annalakshmi, Temple of Fine Arts, 114-116 Jln Berhala, Brickfields, tel: +60 (0)3 2272 3799
Sze Ya Temple, 4A Lebuh Pudu, tel: +60 (0)3 2072 9593
Sri Mahamariamman Temple, 163 Jln Tun HS Lee, tel: +60 (0)3 2078 3467
Peter Hoe Beyond, 2/F, Lee Rubber Building, 145 Jln Tun HS Lee, tel: +60 (0)3 2026 9788
Pinchos, 18 Changkat Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 (0)3 2145 8482
The Social @ Changkat, 22 Changkat Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 (0)3 2142 8260
Tamarind Hill, 19 Jln Sultan Ismail, tel: +60 (0)3 2148 3200
Luxe Lounge, 19 Jln Sultan Ismail, tel: +60 (0)3 2148 3700

HONEY AHMAD’S SATURDAY

Cengkih, 6 Jln Tun Mohd Fuad, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, tel: +60 (0)3 7725 0975
O & S Restoran, 55 Jln 21/14, Paramount Garden, Petaling Jaya, tel: +60 (0)3 7873 5703
Canton Fare, 71G Jln Medan Setia 1, Plaza Damansara, Bukit Damansara, tel: +60 (0)3 2093 5279

SUNDAY

Reunion, 2/F, Bangsar Village II, Jln Telawi Satu, Bangsar, tel: +60 (0)3 2287 3770
Bangsar Village II, Jln Telawi Satu, Bangsar, tel: +60 (0)3 2288 1200
Luxury Vintage, 152 Jln Maarof, Bangsar, tel: +60 (0)3 2095 6266
Museum of Islamic Arts, Jln Lembah Perdana, tel: +60 (0)3 2274 2020  

LIM WEI-LING’S SUNDAY

Rocky, 15 Jln Telawi 5, Bangsar Baru, tel: +60 (0)3 2284 4203
Nasi Kandar Pelita, Tingkat G, 2 Jln Telawi 5, Bangsar Baru, tel: +60 (0)3 2282 5532
Frangipani, 29 Jln Changkat Bukit Bintang, tel: +60 (0)3 2144 3001
Restoran Green View, 6 & 8, Jalan 19/3, Petaling Jaya, tel: +60 (0)3 7958 1076