Tiger Tales

Friday, Saturday & Sunday In Brisbane

Often overshadowed by its neighbours to the south, the Sunshine State capital is an exciting city — big enough to have everything you want but small enough to have it all close by. Matt Kirkegaard devises the perfect short-break itinerary

FRIDAY

6PM Drop your bags because it’s “beer o’clock” in Brisbane. You’ll find most inner-city pubs crowded with offi ce workers stopping off for a coldie on their way home, and partygoers having a drink to kick-start their night. Simply follow the crowds to the nearest watering hole. Alternatively, Cru Bar and Cellar at James Street Market in the inner-city suburb of New Farm is a great place to begin getting acquainted with the city. It consistently has Brisbane’s best wine list, not to mention being the best place for those with social aspirations to see and be seen.  

8PM The party is just getting started a little farther down the road in Brisbane’s nightclub district, “The Valley” – Fortitude Valley on the map. Stop by for a bite before heading out to dance the night away. There seems to be a new über-trendy restaurant or club opening here every week so come prepared to explore.

The Buffalo Club is one of the area’s newest and hippest eateries. The man with the knives here is locally bred, internationally trained chef Ryan Squires. Ryan, who has worked at legendary international restaurants such as Spain’s El Bulli, has put together a gastronomic odyssey in his nine- or 16-course degustation menus (A$95/S$121 or A$155/ S$198). If you’d rather not spend the whole night here, opt for the shorter option with matching drinks (A$45/ S$57).

After dinner, you don’t have far to go to your next hip destination as the Sky Room is just upstairs. The sister venue to reigning Australian Bar of the Year, The Bowery – which is just up the road – the Sky Room is distinctive for its lime-green couches, palm trees and general retro vibe… not to mention great cocktails starting at A$16/S$20 such as the Pisco sour. Sip one while watching the passing parade below.

11PM Join the late-night set clubbing their way around the Valley. Try the X&Y Bar, located in a building made famous when it was the “colourful” Bellino family’s famous Pinocchio’s Restaurant during the district’s seedier days. These days it is a bar showcasing live music seven nights a week. Unlike many local temples to style, this bar boasts that it is a zone of no judgments on labels, shoe brands or hairstyles.

To keep the groove going, see what’s playing at The Zoo, an iconic live music venue where in any given week you could enjoy hip hop, jazz, rock, acoustic, folk and reggae performances. For some late-Friday night beats, head up to The Family. It can be a challenge to find (keep an eye out for the queue) and looks small from the outside, but inside it’s four floors of the best DJs in Brisbane.

MY PERFECT FRIDAY NIGHT

Fridays are a great time to catch up on what has been happening during the week, so my husband Bill and I love heading out to one of Brisbane’s great restaurants with a couple of friends. My favourite haunt is Bistro Three in Fortitude Valley – you just can’t go past their steaks and the service is fantastic. After dinner we usually head home to relax and unwind for an early night as we’re always up at the crack of dawn on Saturday to leave for the Sunshine Coast. Being so close to its amazing beaches is quite possibly my favourite thing about living in Queensland. Lorna Jane Clarkson, Creative Director, Lorna Jane Active Living

BIG NIGHT OUT

Great pubs serving cold beer have always been a feature of Brisbane, but as the city grows and matures it is embracing some very classy cocktail bars as well. Here’s our guide to the places to wet a parched throat:  

The Breakfast Creek Hotel, near-universally referred to as the “Brekky Creek”, is possibly Brisbane’s best-known pub, rightly famous for its steaks served “off the wood”. 2 Kingsford Smith Dr, Albion, tel: +61 (0)7 3262 5988  

Dating back to 1872, the Normanby Hotel may be one of the last horse-and-buggy era inns near the city, but it is also one of the biggest party venues in town. It’s almost never quiet, but Friday nights and Sunday afternoons are a specialty. 1 Musgrave Rd, Red Hill, tel: +61 (0)7 3831 3353  

The Sling Lounge looks like a hole-in-the-wall and it is, but it is also the place for beverage connoisseurs. With a prodigious 49-page drinks list, you’re sure to find something to wet your whistle. 153 Boundary St, West End, tel: +61 (0)7 3255 3522

The Portside Wharf is one of the newer night-time destinations in Brisbane. It’s out of the city centre but Mediterranean-themed Byblos Bar & Restaurant makes it well worth the journey. Shop 7/13, Portside Wharf, 39 Hercules St, Hamilton, tel: +61 (0)7 3268 2223  

The Jade Buddha at Eagle Street Pier overlooks Kangaroo Point on the Brisbane River, serves up panoramic views and features a compelling cocktail list. 1 Eagle St, tel: +61 (0)7 3221 2888

SATURDAY

9AM Since rediscovering its river in the ’80s, Brisbane has embraced the waterway. Shake off the cobwebs from the night before and stretch your legs with a scenic stroll along the Brisbane River Floating Walkway, which runs from just past the northern end of the city’s distinctive Story Bridge around to New Farm Park.

10AM Satisfy your well-earned appetite after the morning’s exercise with brunch at Watt Modern Dining in the Brisbane Powerhouse arts complex. Named for the converted power station where it is located, Watt is a contemporary Australian eatery with sweeping views down the river. The ricotta hotcakes, seasonal fruit and palm sugar butter (A$16/S$20) are sure to get you through until lunch.

11AM Take a look upstairs in the Brisbane Powerhouse arts space to see what’s on over the weekend. The Powerhouse is home to the city’s arts community and hosts an ever-changing line-up of both free and paid shows. Afterwards, head back to New Farm Park and catch a CityCat ferry back to the city and discover why Brisbane is now known as Australia’s River City. Hop off at North Quay.

NOON Decisions, decisions. If you fancy an afternoon spent encountering wildlife followed by coffee and a great view, now’s the time for an organised half-day bus tour (A$69/S$88). The tour takes in Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, one of Australia’s most respected wildlife preserves, where visitors can get up close and personal with Australia’s unique wildlife and even cuddle a koala. Then head up Mt Coot-tha for eye-popping views over the city, the river and across Moreton Bay to the bay islands. If you’re not the touring type, take a stroll along Roma Street up to Petrie Terrace to the newly renovated Barracks Complex. Set on the site of Brisbane’s first gaol and historic police depot, the area has become an entertainment and dining hub in the western fringes of the city centre.

1PM Take in a new-release or arthouse movie while enjoying a glass of wine or a beer at the Palace Cinema, or have a coffee downstairs at the cinema’s Espresso Café & Bar. Another option is to buy a book and read it over coffee at Coaldrake’s Bookshop & Espresso Bar while basking in Brisbane’s warm winter sunshine.

Also, check out the international eats at French-Vietnamese restaurant Libertine or Spanish tapas and wine bar Peasant.  

3PM If you’re still feeling energetic, take the 20-minute walk past the pub strip of Caxton Street along Given and Latrobe Terraces.

In these semi-suburban streets you’ll pass funky bars such as The Lark, voted Australia’s New Bar of the Year in 2007, on your way to the Paddington Antique Centre, located in a heritage-listed theatre building. Here you’ll find an eclectic selection of goods ranging in price from a few dollars for old vinyl records to thousands for antique grandfather clocks. Browse and discover.  

5PM Head back into the city to the Story Bridge. You’ve been beneath it today on a ferry, now is the time to scale it as part of a twilight Story Bridge Adventure Climb (A$130/S$166). One of only three such climbs in the world, this two-and-half-hour adventure takes you over the bridge’s highest span. It is nothing less than magical to watch the sun set over the city skyline.  

8PM A well-earned meal is next and you need go no farther than the base of the bridge to the Story Bridge Hotel. With a choice of three places to eat in the hotel – plus three bars – you’ve got plenty of options to suit your tastes and budget, and keep you occupied for the rest of the night.  

MY PERFECT SATURDAY

I generally try and sleep in before heading down to South Bank for a stroll or skateboard. There’s always a bit of activity down by the South Bank beach, even during winter when temperatures in Brisbane are still above 20 degrees. Usually I’ll stop off at one of the restaurants or cafés in the area for breakfast. I eat at The Point pretty regularly and order my usual cappuccino and scrambled eggs – particularly on the day of a game. Some of the boys might meet up at The Chalk Hotel on Stanley Street for lunch and watch some other sports on the big screen. But Saturday nights in Brisbane – particularly from March to September – generally means footy at the Gabba. We average home crowds of around 30,000 people at home games, which gets the whole Woolloongabba precinct buzzing. It’s a great environment for us players – especially when we win! James Hawksley, member of the AFL’s Brisbane Lions

5 TOP SHOPPING PRECINCTS  

1 FORTITUDE VALLEY Hip and funky, “The Valley” should be the first stop for fashion lovers. The boutiques lining Ann and Brunswick Streets stock everything from streetwear labels to vintage finds.  

2 THE CITY Queens Plaza houses most of the exclusive-name fashion houses. The heritage-listed Brisbane Arcade and department stores Myer and David Jones can be found in the Queen Street Mall.  

3 NEW FARM James Street is a shopping precinct dedicated to fashion and pampering, with a trendy cinema and plenty of bars, coffee shops and restaurants thrown in for good measure.  

4 PADDINGTON Wander along Given and Latrobe Terraces to browse in smaller boutiques selling everything from designer kidswear to Jimmy Choo shoes.  

5 WEST END For a more bohemian vibe, head across the river to this indie enclave.

5 IDEAS FOR LESS THAN A$20

You needn’t have a specific destination in mind to catch a high-speed CityCat, as they’re simply a great way to see Brisbane from the river. Of course, the ferries do stop at most of Brisbane’s key precincts so they’re a great way to get around. A trip from Brett’s Wharf to the University of Queensland at the opposite end of the route costs A$4/S$5.  

If markets are more your thing and you’re here on the second or fourth Saturday of the month, stop by Jan Power’s Farmers Markets to browse a selection of fresh fruit, cheese, bread and maybe grab a bottle of organic wine. Then walk a bit farther to enjoy a picnic under the magnificent Moreton Bay fig trees that line the river.  

Fortitude Valley is Brisbane’s grungy urban heart and the Valley Markets showcase the area’s diversity. Every weekend, independent designers, jewellers, artists and musicians set up shop in the pedestrian malls and the crowds pour in. Brunswick St Mall and China Town Mall, Brunswick St, Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (0)7 3854 0860

If you don’t think lawn bowls is a hip sport, you haven’t been to barefoot bowls at Merthyr Bowls Club. Enjoy superb views of the river while having a great time with other lawn bowls enthusiasts for just A$5/S$6, including bowls hire and coaching. If you’re travelling solo, don’t worry, pull up a chair at the bar or sit down at a table by the river and enjoy bargain-priced drinks. 60 Oxlade Dr, New Farm, tel: +61 (0)7 3358 1291, www.merthyrbowlsclub. com.au  

Built on rehabilitated train yards, Roma Street Parkland is a serene, green oasis in the heart of the city. The Parklands feature a wide variety of free guided walks led by experienced and knowledgeable volunteer guides. 1 Parkland Blvd, tel: +61 (0)7 3006 4545, www.romastreetparkland. com  

Jump on a train at Central Station and take the 30-minute journey (A$5/S$6) to Sandgate, right on Moreton Bay. Then, it’s just a five-minute walk to the foreshore where you can enjoy fish and chips from Doug’s Seafood Café as you feed the seagulls and gaze out towards the bay islands. Doug’s Seafood Café, 60 Flinders Parade, Sandgate, tel: +61 (0)7 3269 4713

SUNDAY

8AM The forecourts and waterfront walkways around the Riverside Centre are taken over every Sunday morning by the Riverside Craft Markets. These are Brisbane’s biggest markets and bring a carnival atmosphere to what, during the week, is a serious and be-suited part of town. As with all markets there is plenty of tat, but keep a sharp eye out and you’ll find plenty of treasures, too. If you’re content to graze, the food stalls here will fill the gap. Don’t sweat it if you’re not an early riser or you pulled a big one the previous night as the markets run until 4pm.

10AM Leaving the markets behind, walk along the riverbank and admire the Kangaroo Point Cliffs on the other side of the water. Keep an eye out for adventurers, abseiling or rock climbing. Walk through the Brisbane City Botanic Gardens to the QUT Gardens Point Ferry Wharf and catch a CityCat or walk across the Goodwill Bridge to South Bank Parklands. You’ll find 170,000sqm of riverside subtropical parklands and lush gardens. Don’t miss the Arbour, a walkway made up of 443 curling, tendril-like columns of steel, each covered with a train of vibrant magenta bougainvillea. The Arbour winds its way for a kilometre past many of the parkland’s attractions. If you brought your swimmers (Queenslanders call them “togs”) you’ll find people testing the water year-round at Australia’s only city-centre beach.

NOON Stop off for a beer at the Plough Inn, whose 125-year history makes it one of Brisbane’s oldest pubs. Most Brisbane pubs do a good range of bar grub favourites and modern Australian bistro meals and the Plough Inn is no exception.

2PM Just time for an afternoon of culture – taking in the arts precinct at the western end of South Bank. With the Gallery of Modern Art, Queensland Art Gallery, State Library of Queensland, Queensland Museum and interactive Sciencentre all located here, you may find it hard to drag yourself away when it’s time to head for the airport.

6PM Considering that Brisbane is fairly small, traffic can get surprisingly heavy. Save yourself the hassle by catching the Airtrain, which serves both the domestic and international terminals (from A$15/ S$19). As you fly out of the airport, based on the edge of Moreton Bay, gaze down at the unspoiled islands on Brisbane’s doorstep and pledge to visit them on your next trip.

MY PERFECT SUNDAY

Sunday is definitely my favourite day of the week. Everyone in our family is busy all week, so when Sunday rolls around, it’s usually all hands on deck for a big barbecue breakfast. It gives us the energy we need to tackle some of our preferred Sunday adventures. If we are being treated to perfect Queensland weather then we might head to a national park for a hike. Mt Nebo and Mt Glorious have wonderful family-friendly trails within 30 minutes of the CBD. Closer to home, we often enjoy a Sunday afternoon strolling South Bank or cycling along one of the “new” bike paths springing up all over the city. We begin at the Gallery of Modern Art then make our way past the State Library to the Queensland Art Gallery and the Queensland Museum. My kids never tire of trips to the Sciencentre. In fact, its familiarity is probably the source of its appeal. We usually finish our time with ice cream no matter where we find ourselves – it’s the quintessential Sunday afternoon treat on a hot Brisbane day. Sofie Formica, Host, Great South East, Channel 7, 5.30pm on Sundays

WHERE TO STAY

BUDGET
Palace Backpackers It doesn’t get much more central to everything in Brisbane than the Palace, located across the road from Central Station. This converted and heritage-listed building with plenty of character offers single and dormitory accommodation, and boasts a rooftop barbecue area, café, bistro and bar. Single rooms start at A$40/S$51 per night. 308 Edward St, tel: +61 (0)7 3211 2433, www.stayatbase.com  

MID RANGE
Mercure Brisbane Close to the new pedestrian footbridge over the river, thus offering easy access to South Bank, the Mercure Brisbane offers great views of the waterway. Also close to ferry terminals and the city’s main shopping precinct. 85–87 North Quay, tel: +61 (0)7 3237 2300, www.accorhotels.com  

BLOW OUT
Emporium Brisbane Winner of the prize for Best Small Luxury Hotel at last year’s Australian Gourmet Traveller awards, the Emporium is Brisbane’s first luxury boutique hotel. Set in its own little gourmet shopping and dining precinct, it’s a tempting place to spend an entire weekend. 1000 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (0)7 3253 6999, www.emporiumhotel.com.au.

CONTACT BOOK

FRIDAY

● Jade Buddha, 1 Eagle St, tel: +61 (0)7 3221 2888
● The Buffalo Club, 1F, 1/234 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley (entrance on Brunswick St), Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (0)7 3216 1323
● SkyRoom Bar, Level 2, 234 Wickham St, Fortitude Valley tel: +61 (0)7 3852 4718
● The Bowery, 676 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (0)7 3252 0202
● X&Y Bar, 648 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (0)7 3257 1259
● The Zoo, 711 Ann St, Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (0)7 3854 1381
● The Family Nightclub, 8 McLachlan St, Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (0)7 3852 5000

SATURDAY

● Watt Modern Dining, Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St, New Farm, tel: +61 (0)7 3358 5464
● Brisbane Powerhouse, 119 Lamington St, New Farm, tel: +61 (0)7 3358 8600
● Jan Power’s Farmers Markets, 119 Lamington St, New Farm, tel: +61 (0)7 3358 8600
● CityCat Information, tel: +61 (0)7 3215 5000
● Australian Day Tour (half-day Lone Pine & Mt Coot-tha), www.brisbane. visitorsbureau.com.au
● Lone Pine, 708 Jesmond Rd, Fig Tree Pocket, tel: +61 (0)7 3378 1366
● Palace Cinema, Petrie Terrace, tel: +61 1300 627 385
● Palace Cinemas Espresso Café & Bar, Petrie Terrace, tel: +61 (0)7 3367 0263
● Coaldrake’s Bookshop and Espresso Bar, Petrie Terrace, tel: +61 (0)7 3367 8526
● Libertine, Petrie Terrace, tel: +61 (0)7 3367 3353
● Peasant, Petrie Terrace, tel: +61 (0)7 3367 8066
● The Lark, Shop 1, 267 Given Terrace, Paddington, tel: +61 (0)7 3369 1299
● Paddington Antique Centre, 167 Latrobe Terrace, Paddington, tel: +61 (0)7 3369 8088
● Story Bridge Adventure Climb, 170 Main St, Kangaroo Point, tel: +61 (0)7 3177 1633
● Story Bridge Hotel, 200 Main St, Kangaroo Point, tel: +61 (0)7 3391 2266
● Deery’s Restaurant, 200 Main St, Kangaroo Point, tel: +61 (0)7 3391 2266

SUNDAY

● Riverside Crafts Market, 123 Eagle St, tel: +61 (0)7 3870 2807
● Brisbane City Botanic Gardens, Gardens Point, George St, tel: +61 (0)7 3403 8888
● South Bank Parklands, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3867 2051
● The Plough Inn Tavern, Stanley St Plaza, South Bank Parklands, tel: +61 (0)7 3844 7777
● Queensland Museum, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3840 7555
● Queensland Sciencentre, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3220 0166
● Queensland Art Gallery & Gallery of Modern Art, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3840 7303
● State Library of Queensland, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3840 7666

LORNA JANE CLARKSON’S FRIDAY

● Bistro Three, Emporium, Wickham St, Fortitude Valley, tel: +61 (0)7 3852 3133

JAMES HAWKSLEY’S SATURDAY

● South Bank Parklands, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3867 2051
● The Point Restaurant & Bar, 176–178 Grey St, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3846 5555
● Chalk Hotel, 735 Stanley St, Woolloongabba, tel: +61 (0)7 3896 6565
● The Gabba, 411 Vulture St, Woolloongabba, tel: +61 (0)7 3008 6166

SOFIE FORMICA’S SUNDAY

● Queensland Museum, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3840 7555
● Queensland Sciencentre, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3220 0166
● Queensland Art Gallery & Gallery of Modern Art, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3840 7303
● State Library of Queensland, South Bank, tel: +61 (0)7 3840 7666