Tiger Tales

Café Society

Ho Chi Minh City

Fabulous frappés, fantastic French bread and spaces so comfortable you won’t want to leave. Welcome to Saigon’s irrepressibly cool and mouth-watering array of cafés, says Helen Dalley

Given the strong French influence that lingers in Vietnam, it’s understandable that cafés play a big part in everyday life here. In fact, they’re arguably as much a part of the country’s cultural fabric as the persistent roar of mopeds, or the sight of locals slurping steaming bowls of pho on street corners.

The French colonists introduced coffee to Vietnam in the late 19th century and the caffeine habit has proved a hard one to kick as more than 100 years later, coffee pots still percolate in the country’s countless cafés. Like Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City has plenty of authentic French-style cafés, some of which are located in old colonial buildings. A prime example is The Refinery, once an opium plant and now a chic meeting place for Sunday brunch, pre-dinner drinks or a quick coffee and catch-up.

Owner Noelle Carr-Ellison, a laid-back Parisienne who has lived in Saigon for the past 15 years, insists that I try one of The Refinery’s specialties, the Frappé, a creamy iced coffee that cuts through the Vietnamese humidity like a knife. “It’s a Franco-American-Vietnamese creation,” she explains. “Basically, I put Vietnamese coffee and fresh milk through a milkshake machine so the ice is finely crushed, which provides a better taste and texture than ice cubes.” If you prefer your coffee hot (and super sweet), go for a Vietnamese filter coffee with condensed milk. Pair either with another Refinery favourite, the Hot Chocolate Mousse – just sweet enough to ensure that your spoon keeps coming back until the plate is clean.

The enterprising Noelle also owns another staple of the Saigon café scene, Au Parc. It’s one of the best places to order up a salad – perhaps one with poached chicken, peas and watercress, topped with a cashew lemongrass dressing? Try one with fresh juice or a smoothie on the side. “People have approached me about setting up in Hong Kong and Kuala Lumpur but if I do that, it becomes too uniform – then you can’t have the local fruit of the season on the menu.” Located near the Notre Dame Cathedral in a restored shophouse, Au Parc exudes sunshine and comfort, and features brightly tiled tables and silk scatter cushions. It’s a place to take your notebook to and sketch in between sips of pomelo, orange and lime juice.

While the historic surrounds of The Refinery and Au Parc are hard to beat, hardcore coffee drinkers should sniff out cosy and atmospheric Centro, where the pungent perfume of Caffè Vergnano beans provides the aromatic backdrop. And you’re just as likely to find Italian businessmen huddled over cups of espresso lungo here as you are trendy Vietnamese sporting aviator shades and tattoos drinking iced latte. But when I suggest to outlet manager Zarggie C Elloso that people love Centro primarily for the coffee, he says, “Actually, I think many people come here for the pasta – we are the only place in the city that makes it on-site.”

With new Italian chef Thomas Fois on board, Zarggie says Centro plans to offer even more regional dishes from Italy.

Like Au Parc’s Noelle, K Café owner Paul Euvrard has brought a genuine taste of France to Ho Chi Minh City. But while his humble café is more small-town France than antique chic, it’s certainly brimming with atmosphere. For proof, look no further than the row of regulars propping up the bar with their shoes off, one eye on a televised cricket match, the other on their Beef Bourguignon. With his easy laugh and casual manner, Paul is instantly welcoming. And the camembert, bread and frites equally so.

“I wanted to create a down-to-earth place with simple French cooking,” says Paul, who moved from his hometown of Lyon to Vietnam 12 years ago. Lyon’s loss is definitely Saigon’s gain.

FIND IT:

* Au Parc, 23 Han Thuyen, District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 3829 2772
* Centro, 11–13 Lam Son Square, District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 827 5946; 6 Thai Van Lung St, District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 3823 5795
* K Café, 28 Do Quang Dau St, District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 6673 2866, www.kcafevietnam.com
* The Refi nery, 74 Hai Ba Trung, District 1, tel: +84 (0)8 3823 0509