Tiger Tales

Friday, Saturday And Sunday In Hong Kong

Take the famous
Peak Tram to see
Victoria Harbour
in all its gloryFrom raucous dim sum eateries to sleek late-night saloons, Hong Kong has it all, and its diminutive size means it’s easy to take in tons over a weekend break. Helen Dalley has the lowdown on Asia’s most eclectic and cosmopolitan city

FRIDAY

6PM In a city that’s celebrated for its skyscrapers, your first stop should be a bar with a view. And the best place to admire the city skyline in all its glory is its highest point, the Peak. Take the Peak Tram from Central and saunter up to Pearl on the Peak. Its outdoor terrace offers show-stopping vistas of Victoria Harbour and mega structures such as the International Finance Centre (IFC) and IM Pei’s gloriously angular Bank of China Tower. Order up a Peakini, a potent mix of vodka, schnapps, grappa and mango juice, to sip while you snap some photos of the magnificent view before you.

8PM After a heady cocktail or two, come back down to earth and get ready to hit SoHo (that’s South of Hollywood Road). One of the city’s hottest dining and entertainment districts, it’s accessible from Central via the Mid-Levels escalators. Coast, which is famed for its market-fresh fish flown in from Australia and New Zealand, certainly knows how to handle its produce. And the steaks – such as the 180g petit fillet (HK$230/S$42), served on a bed of green beans – are cooked to tender perfection by hands-on Executive Chef Aaron Kearney, who has cooked for everyone from the Dalai Lama to Beyoncé. Done up in sandstone, timber and mirrors, the dining room’s interior is fresh and modern with cosy booths. What’s more, the adjoining bar is home to some of SoHo’s cheapest beers (HK$33/S$6 for a bottle of Tsingtao) and is a popular venue for people-watching given its position overlooking the escalators. Jump back on the escalators and head up a little farther to the Peak Café if you’d like more South-East Asian options on the menu (roast duck with red Thai curry, perhaps?). For contemporary Japanese food served up in a glamorous setting, try Zuma, located within walking distance at The Landmark.

11PM The Tibetan prayer flags and stone Buddhas outside Yun Fu stand in stark contrast to the western-style bars on Wyndham Street. This dimly lit bar is decked out like a lush opium den with red lanterns, drapes and plush silk cushions in the back. The front is dominated by a circular stone bar, where classic Chinese martial arts movies are beamed onto the walls. The drinks menu is similarly Sinocentric, running the gamut from lychee wine to cocktails like the firecracker, a tongue-sizzling combo of schnapps, vodka, apple juice, pepper and Chinese red chilli. If you can drag yourself away from Yun Fu’s seductive surrounds, take the short walk to Le Jardin, at the top of Lan Kwai Fong. Here, you can relax above the crowd on the outdoor terrace, or get rowdy singing along with jukebox tunes.

MY PERFECT FRIDAY NIGHT Friday nights are typically dedicated to my beautiful wife Veronica – if I am not travelling, working, in the gym, or walking our three dogs. Occasionally, when I do want a big night out, I like to start the evening at Sushi Kuu for omakase prepared by Chef Satoru. Nothing beats hand-fed fresh sushi, piece by piece. A few sakes, shojus and lethal samurais later, I’ll sometimes go find my twin brother at Volar in Lan Kwai Fong, where I’ll soon be listening to cheesy hip hop and pretending I’m 18 again. For a tamer evening, given that my wife is half Italian, an evening at Gaia or Isola for an authentic meal cooked by super chefs Paolo or Gianni and team always makes me feel at home. Both places have beautiful and unique ambiences for Hong Kong, and a glass of wine over a plate of al denté pasta always does the job. Roger Chan, Director and Founder of Vero chocolates

BIG NIGHT OUT

In a city renowned for its skyscrapers sky bars abound. Reach for the top, but don't forget to leave time for a spot of music and dancing.

• For beatifully presented cocktails in a sumptuous art deco environment, try Lei Dou (it means "here" in Cantonese), but don't turn up in trainers or flip-flops as smart dress is required. 20-22 D'Aguitar St. Central, tel:+852 2525 6628
• Another great venue with a view is Café Deco on the Peak. The prices are reasonable, the food is deicious and the vistas are to die for. Level 1-2. Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd, The Peak, tel:+852 2849 5111
• The venue may be small and the seating limited but Felix bar at the Peninsula remains a popular choice for its great views. 28F. The Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Rd. Tsim Sha Tsui tel:+852 2315 3188
• If you're dead-set on dancing all night, then only insomnia will do. Here, the skilled house band blasts out classic rock and pop favourites into the wee hours. 38-22 D'Aguilar St. Central, tel:+852 2525 0957
• Catch some Hong Kong hip hop or Beijing punk at The Fringe, a great place to enjoy live music in one of the city's oldest buildings. 2 Lower Albert Rd. Central. tel+852 2581 7251

SATURDAY

9AM Clear your head with a brisk walk through Hong Kong Park, where you may catch local residents doing their daily exercise routines in the Tai Chi Garden. If you’re feeling energetic, march up the 105 steps of 30m Vantage Point Tower, then admire the plants in the conservatory. Culture more your thing? Then check out the Flagstaff Museum of Teaware, which is home to an impressive collection of ceramics dating back to the T’ang Dynasty. Admission is free. Next, explore your spiritual side by heading over to Sheung Wan for a visit to Man Mo Temple, one of the city’s oldest. Photos are not allowed, but you can pick up some free incense and offer it up to one or more of the many deities.

10.30AM Carry on walking up Hollywood Road and you’ll hit The Press Room, which serves brunch from 10am–6pm. Along with classics such as eggs benedict and eggs florentine (both HK$84/S$15), there are offbeat choices like grilled kippers (HK$98/ S$18) and corned beef hash with poached eggs (HK$98/S$18). If you want to make three courses of it, begin with the heavenly wild mushroom soup served with black truffle cream (HK$66/S$12) and top things off with the restaurant’s deliciously light pear tarte tatin for two (HK$138/S$25), which is best appreciated with a generous pour of single cream.

NOON Duck in and out of the many antique shops scattered along Hollywood Road, which sell everything from Tibetan rugs to imperial furniture. Also along Hollywood, you’ll find a host of art galleries like Schoeni – just the place to pick up a contemporary Chinese piece by one of the darlings of China’s modern art scene, such as Chen Li or Shuai Mei. Don’t miss local clothing and homeware store G.O.D., where you can browse everything from super-bright cheongsam and glittery Chinese pumps to funky fans and photo frames.

3PM For something light after that calorific brunch, try the Life Café, where the seasonal menu is mostly organic and vegetarian. Made up of nutty, home-made hummus and flax seed crackers on a bed of leaves, carrots, beetroot and alfalfa sprouts, the life salad (HK$85/S$15) is a definite winner, as are the wide selection of detox teas and fruit smoothies.

5PM Ready for a drink yet? Then it’s time for a pre-dinner aperitif at ToTT’s (it stands for Talk of The Town) at The Excelsior Hotel. It offers views of the luxury boats bobbing up and down in the Causeway Bay Typhoon Shelter below. Try a latino cocktail like the caiprinha d’uva. If it’s too early for alcohol but some pudding would hit the spot, sample a local specialty – mango, pomelo and sago sweet soup – at Honeymoon Dessert. It’s located nearby at the World Trade Center.

8PM From fish balls on a stick from a street vendor to Michelin-starred fare with stunning panoramas, dinner choices in Hong Kong are exhaustive. For classic Chinese fare, try Peking Garden, a trusted chain of restaurants with several locations. The don’t-miss dish is, naturally, the Peking duck, which is carved at your table. Get there by 8pm to watch the chefs stretching the dough to make noodles, and expect to pay around HK$300/S$55 per person not including drinks. For high-end Chinese fare with views back towards the island, book a window table at Hutong, located on the top floor of a Kowloon skyscraper. The deboned ribs should not be missed.

11PM It may be Hong Kong’s red-light district, but Wan Chai is a safe and interesting part of town to explore, with plenty of good bars and restaurants mixed in with some admittedly seedy-looking joints. Agave is just the place for an enlivening tequila or two, and the frozen margaritas slide down all too easily as you watch ladies of the night attempt to lure their prey into gaudy, neon-lit bars.

Housed in an elegant colonial-era building that was once the home of a pawn shop, The Pawn is arguably Wanchai’s most eye-catching location. Here, you can lounge on the balcony or chill out on the rooftop terrace. Finish the evening at late-night drinking den Trafalgar, which has a cosy English pub feel and a welcoming staff.

MY PERFECT SATURDAY On Saturday mornings, I usually spend my time getting ready for the week ahead. Then I head out for a traditional dim sum lunch at Island Tang, which is decked out in ebony wood and has plenty of Old-World charm. My favourite dish is the oven-baked bun stuffed with char siu – crispy on the outside with a moist and juicy filling. Then I head to my first art gallery project, Ben Brown Fine Arts, to check out their latest exhibition of works by international artists. Featured artists have included Damien Hirst and Candida Hofer. Dinner on Saturday tends to be a family affair at Chesa, the Swiss restaurant at the Peninsula Hotel, followed by drinks at Azure, a rooftop venue that I crafted in the middle of Lan Kwai Fong, the city’s nightlife hub. Andre Fu, architect

 

5 IDEAS FOR HK$200 OR LESS 1 Take a cruise around Victoria Harbour on the Aqualuna, a traditional teak junk. Afternoon (HK$150/S$27) and evening (HK$180/S$32) cruises depart from Queen’s Pier in Central or the Cultural Centre in Tsim Sha Tsui. tel: +852 2116 8821 2 The Science Museum is home to 16 galleries covering everything from magnetism to home technology. Admission is HK$25/ S$5 for adults and HK$13/S$3 for kids (free for kids under 4). 2 Science Museum Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: +852 2732 3232 3 Browse the souvenir stalls on Li Yuen Streets East and West. Known as “the lanes”, they’re home to bargain prices on everything from cheongsam (less than HK$100/S$18) to Chinese-style cushion covers. Li Yuen Sts East and West, Central 4 Visit The Verandah in Repulse Bay for afternoon tea from   3.30pm–5.30pm. The cost per person is HK$128/S$23. 109 Repulse Bay Rd, Repulse Bay, tel: +852 2292 2822 5 Take the MTR to Diamond Hill to admire the Chi Lin Nunnery, a Buddhist complex that evokes the T’ang Dynasty. The Golden Pagoda at the adjacent Nan Lian Garden makes for a great photo opportunity. Admission is free. 5 Chi Lin Dr, Diamond Hill, tel: +852 2354 1789

SUNDAY

10AM Dim sum with the family is a Sunday tradition for many Hong Kong residents so follow their lead and order up some har gao (prawn dumplings) char siu bau (barbecued pork buns) and siu mai (pork and prawn dumplings) at one of the city’s countless dim sum restaurants. For food and fab views over to Kowloon, head to City Hall Maxim’s Palace. If the dollars are running low after last night’s cocktail-fest, try Cheers Restaurant, which has several locations throughout the city and, like City Hall, an English-language menu. Go after 2pm and it’s half price.

NOON Wander down to the ferry pier in Central and take a trip to Mui Wo on Lantau Island. Once there, catch the bus to Ngong Ping, the site of the Tian Tan Buddha, a 34m bronze seated deity that is reached by climbing 268 steps. Then, take a peek at the adjacent Po Lin Monastery, the century-old home of bronze statues and Buddhist scriptures. Ferries depart every 45 minutes on Sunday. The cost is HK$20/S$4 for ordinary ferry service and HK$37/$7 for fast ferry service. Admission is free to the Buddha and monastery, which are open daily from 10am to 5.45pm.

4PM Take the bus to Tung Chung and grab some last-minute bargains at Citygate Outlets, which has low prices on over 70 brands, from Ralph Lauren and Diane Von Furstenburg to Asian mainstays like Vivienne Tam and Kinji. From here, it’s an easy 10-to-15 minute taxi ride to the airport.

WHERE TO STAY BUDGET Hotel Jen Located in the city’s Western District, just a ten-minute tram ride from the bright lights of Central, this hotel is all minimalist chic. While the rooms may be a bit on the small side, the views from the rooftop pool help make up for it. Room rates start at HK$650/ S$118 per night. 508 Queen’s Rd W, Western District, tel: +852 2974 1234, www.hoteljen.com MID RANGE Harbour Grand Decked out in Oriental-style earthy tones, the rooms at the Harbour Grand are warm and welcoming. Head up to the 41st floor to Le 188, whose floor-to-ceiling windows offer eye-popping views of Victoria Harbour and Kowloon. Room rates start at HK$1,180/S$214 per night. 23 Oil St, North Point, tel: +852 2121 2688, www.harbour-grand.com BLOW OUT Hullett House Formerly the marine police headquarters, this grand structure built in 1881 is a rare example of colonial elegance. Each of the 13 sumptuous suites represents a different historical period, from the Imperial China feel of Tsing Lung to Casam, which reflects the city’s burgeoning pop art scene. Room rates start at HK$4,700/S$842 per night. 2A Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: +852 3988 0000, www.hulletthouse.com

 

MY PERFECT SUNDAY I love sleeping late and going for a dim sum brunch in Happy Valley. The har gao is fantastic and there’s a great ambience. One of my favourite ways to spend a Sunday is on a junk. However, in the winter, it’s always nice to walk up to the Peak and do the Peak Circle Walk, followed by a relaxing foot massage at Fun Feet in Happy Valley. If it feels like a lazy Sunday afternoon, I also love pampering myself with a Signature Blending Facial treatment at the Menthoderm Skin Nursery. If we’re having dinner out, we love going to Enoteca on Elgin Street for the crispy thin pizzas and tapas or to Bistro Manchu for Chinese food. Or if we’re feeling athletic, it’s always great to do part of the Dragon’s Back hike to Shek O and end the evening with simple but delicious Thai food at Shek O Chinese & Thai Seafood Restaurant, followed by a relaxing stroll on the beach. Kazumi Lomri, Founder of Chako Tokyo

 

5 BEST SHOPPING MALLS Located above Kowloon station, Elements is the place to splurge on luxury goods from the likes of Bulgari, Cartier and Hermes. The Grand Cinema, meanwhile, boasts “vibrating” chairs to allow audiences to see, hear and feel their movie. 1 Austin Rd W, Kowloon, tel: +852 2735 5234 Situated in Mong Kok, one of Hong Kong’s busiest districts, Langham Place consists of 15 floors that can take an entire afternoon to explore. Be there from 9pm-9.45pm, Wednesday to Saturday, to catch live music shows. l 8 Argyle St, Mong Kok, tel: +852 3520 2800 If size matters to you, then head straight to Harbour City in Tsim Sha Tsui, a mega-structure housing 700 shops. You’ll find the usual array of designer brands (Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Vivienne Westwood) along with a great food hall in the basement. 3-27 Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: +852 2118 8666 Located mere steps from one of the world’s busiest pelican crossings in Causeway Bay, Times Square is one of the city’s best-stocked malls, selling everything from electrical goods (Fortress, Broadway) to high fashion and beauty products at Lane Crawford, Hong Kong’s local department store. 1 Matheson St, Causeway Bay, tel: +852 2118 8900 Part of the International Finance Centre complex, IFC Mall is just the place to indulge in a retail therapy session or enjoy a coffee before heading out to the islands, as it’s located next to the ferry pier in Central. The Upper Levels boast an upscale selection of restaurants, many with impressive views. 8 Finance St, Central, tel: +852 2295 3308

CONTACT BOOK

FRIDAY

Pearl on the Peak, The Peak, 128 Peak Rd, tel: +852 2849 5123
Coast, 1F, Kinwick Centre, Hollywood Rd, tel: +852 2544 5888
Peak Café, 9-13 Shelley St, SoHo, tel: +852 2140 6877
Zuma, 13 Queen’s Rd, Central, tel: +852 3657 6388
Yun Fu, 43-55 Wyndham St, Central, tel: +852 2116 8855
Le Jardin, 1F, 10 Wing Wah Ln, Lan Kwai Fong, tel: +852 2526 2717
Roger Chan’s Friday Night
Sushi Kuu, 1F, Wellington Place, 2-8 Wellington St, Central, tel: +852 2971 0180
Volar, Basement, 38-44 D’Aguilar St, Central, tel: +852 2810 1510
Gaia, Ground Floor, The Piazza, Grand Millennium Plaza, 181 Queen’s Rd, Central, tel: +852 2167 8200
Isola, 3F, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St, Central, tel: +852 2383 8765

SATURDAY

Hong Kong Park, 19 Cotton Tree Dr
Man Mo Temple, 124-126 Hollywood Rd, Central, tel: +852 2803 2916
The Press Room, 108 Hollywood Rd, Central, tel: +852 2525 3444
Schoeni Art Gallery, 27 Hollywood Rd, Central, tel: +852 2542 3143
G.O.D., 48 Hollywood Rd, Central, tel: +852 2805 1876
Life Café, 10 Shelley St, SoHo, tel: +852 2810 9777
ToTT’s, 281 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay, tel: +852 2837 6786
Peking Garden, Cityplaza II, 18 Taikoo Shing Rd, Taikoo, tel: +852 2884 4131
Honeymoon Dessert, World Trade Center, 280 Gloucester Rd, Causeway Bay, tel: +852 2577 6558
Hutong, 1 Peking Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, tel: +852 3428 8342
Agave, 93-107 Lockhart Rd, Wanchai, tel: +852 2866 3228
The Pawn, 62 Johnston Rd, Wanchai tel: +852 2866 3444
Trafalgar, 5F, 54-62 Lockhart Rd, Wanchai, tel: +852 2110 1535
Andre Fu’s Saturday
Island Tang, Shop 222, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd, Central, tel: +852 2526 8798
Ben Brown Fine Arts, 301 Pedder Bldg, 12 Pedder St, tel: +852 2522 9600
Chesa, 1F, Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: +852 2315 3169
Azure, 29F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St, tel: +852 3518 9330

SUNDAY

City Hall Maxim’s Palace, 2F, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Pl, Central, tel: +852 2521 1303
Cheers Restaurant, Shop 203, Paradise Mall, 100 Shing Tai Rd, Heng Fa Chuen, tel: +852 3520 1268
Tian Tan Buddha, Ngong Ping, Lantau Island, tel: +852 2109 9898
Citygate Outlets, 51 Tat Tung Rd, Tung Chung, tel: +852 2109 2933
Kazumi Lomri’s Sunday
Dim Sum, 63 Sing Woo Rd, Happy Valley, tel: +852 2834 8893
Fun Feet, 39E Sing Woo Rd, Happy Valley, tel: +852 2838 3234
Menthoderm Skin Nursery, 10 Queen’s Rd, tel: +852 2147 3803
Enoteca, 47 Elgin St, Soho, Central, tel: +852 2525 9944
Bistro Manchu, 33 Elgin St, SoHo, Central, tel: +852 2536 9218
Shek O Chinese & Thai Seafood Restaurant, 303 Shek O Village, Shek O, tel: +852 2809 4426