Tiger Tales

A Walk On The Wild Side

Australia’s vast landscape is best seen on foot, say dedicated bushwalkers Tyrone Thomas and Andrew Close

Outback

KALARRANGA-MPAARA, NORTHERN TERRITORY
Grade: Medium
Distance: 8km
Time: 3 hrs

Access to this spectacular walk is from the Finke River’s west bank and then south via a designated four-wheel-drive track. The last section of track leads west up the broad Palm Creek subsidiary valley to a good campground.

Around the campground, you are likely to see birds of the parrot family, such as corellas, cockatoos and brilliant green Port Lincoln ringneck parrots.

South-east of the camp are two adjoining circuits, which we suggest you combine to create a walk that will no doubt linger in your mind for life. The Kalarranga Walk loop is especially good to the west and upstream along Palm Creek and to the south up to the huge Kalarranga rock ampitheatre, as it’s surrounded by massive reddish-brown cliffs and rock stacks. At the second rock stack on the ridge, the views are stunning.

The Mpaara Walk encircles what is essentially a very large rock stack or small plateau. Proceed north-east, downhill past rugged cliff-bases towards the confluence of Palm Creek and the Finke River. Once beside the broad and sandy Finke River, turn right to walk near the banks towards some red cabbage palms at Palm Bend. Here, the palms grow on average three times faster than those in Palm Valley itself. This is due to the soil being deeper and more fertile, with a permanent shallow water table. There are also sandy beaches nearby. The Finke is the largest river in central Australia.

Forest

CAMELS HUMP, VICTORIA
Grade: Medium
Distance: 17km
Time: 6.5 hrs

Central Victoria has a fascinating geological attraction at Mount Macedon on the Great Dividing Range. The mountain is a large, extinct volcano and a significant landmark 65 km north-west of Melbourne. The last eruption about 8.3 million years ago centred on Camels Hump. The lava from that eruption flowed south to form the ridge on which the main Mount Macedon Road now runs.

A volcanic plug, 1,008m Camels Hump is the highest point in the Macedon Ranges, with Mount Macedon reaching 1,001m and Mount Towrong peaking at 805m. These three high points are spaced along a summit ridge which forms a large horseshoe-shaped arc. Many geologists claim this to be the old crater rim. However, some experts disagree, arguing that the arc is the eroded remains of a once much higher mountain. Rich volcanic soils remain to nourish sturdy, tall forests of messmate (Eucalyptus obliqua) and manna gum (Eucalyptus delegatensis) trees.

Tree ferns are common on the southern and eastern flanks. With much of the cool temperate forests of Victoria having been burned in recent years, this heavily forested area now stands virtually alone, after recovering from a fire in 1983. During any bushwalk you will encounter wildlife such as rosellas and wallabies, and perhaps koalas, echidnas, yellow-tailed black cockatoos and sulphur-crested cockatoos.

Parts of the mountain are also renowned for the presence of some of the best private ornamental gardens in Australia. Rhododendrons, azaleas, maples and many other exotic plants thrive on the acidic soil. In the late 1800s, Melbourne’s wealthiest families established large Indian Hill Station-type properties on the mountain and competed with one another to produce the finest garden.

Desert

PINNACLES DESERT, WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Grade: Easy
Distance: 5km
Time: 2 hrs

The Pinnacles are a well-known feature of Nambung National Park, which encompasses both white-sand beaches and desert. They are located 17km south-east of the small town of Cervantes and 245km north of Perth. The park’s main attraction is the thousands of limestone pinnacles, which protrude by as much as 3.5m from the orange-yellow desert sands. The majority of the formations are needle-like, some having sharp edges, occasionally perforated by holes. They stand like silent sentinels, reminiscent of Stonehenge or the monuments of Easter Island. However, the pinnacles are definitely not man-made.

They were formed when rain falling on desert dunes leached down through the sand carrying calcium, causing the lower levels of the dunes to solidify. Then a layer of soil formed on top of the dunes, which encouraged plant growth and further cemented the limestone beneath. Gradually, the lowest layer of soil formed into a hard cap, which left the dunes with three levels – a soil and plant level, a hard cap below and a thick layer of limestone at the bottom. Plant roots found cracks and broke up the hard cap and the limestone, which led to the development of the pinnacles, which were exposed with the advent of drier weather and the disappearance of the top layer of plants and soil.

Despite shifting sands, plants such as acacias have adapted to the arid conditions. The further inland you travel, the larger the plant species become. Banksias, dryandras and casuarinas are common. And animal life includes emus, kangaroos, skinks, pythons, Goulds monitors and many birds, especially birds of prey and parrots. There is a rather short walking track from which visitors can see some of the pinnacles. At the end, congratulate yourself for completing this very unusual walk, which is in one of a select few desert areas that one can safely traverse on foot.

Coastal

CAPE HILLSBOROUGH, QUEENSLAND
Grade: Easy
Distance: 9km
Time: 4 hrs

This beautiful cape, about 46km north of Mackay, is protected within Cape Hillsborough Park. In past ages, it was one of the many hilly islands of the Great Barrier Reef but it is now linked to the mainland. Its walking track offers panoramic views that encompass many islands. At low tide, there are opportunities to explore the coast and to see soft coral and mangroves up close.

Geologically, the cape is very rugged, with plenty of exposed, ancient volcanic rock, especially at headlands and where the hillsides plunge to the sea as cliffs. Wedge Island and Orchid Rock are adjacent to the main bay fronting the Coral Sea. Division Rocks extends out into the water midway along the bay, separating Beachcomber Cove from Casuarina Beach.

Hand-reared kangaroos frequent the beach early each morning to be fed chaff.

There are large numbers of brush turkeys, wallabies, kangaroos, kookaburras, fruit bats, possums, sand bubbler crabs, turtles, lizards, dolphins, 25 butterfly species and 140 species of birds. If you’re lucky, you may even see the brilliant blue Ulysses butterfly.

The vegetation is tropical with some dense rainforest, including piccabeen palms, figs and bird’s nest ferns. Many large hoop pines grow on the higher ground. Coconut palms, broad-leaved tea trees and casuarinas line the beach and both pandani palms and mangroves border some of the coast.

Cliffs

CAPE RAOUL-TUNNEL BAY, TASMANIA
Grade: Medium
Distance: 12.6km
Time: 5 hrs

Tunnel Bay on the Tasman Peninsula has long been a favourite in walking circles. The remote bay is located near rugged Cape Raoul, with road access from the small tourist settlement of Port Arthur. Exposed cliff-rim outlooks are included in this walk so you should exercise great care at these spots, especially if it is windy or wet. Climb Cape Raoul Track to a spectacular outlook on a cliff-rim about 400m above sea level. There are great views to Cape Raoul, with the Raoul Bay cliffs in the foreground. Farther along, just a few metres on a side path to the right along the cliff-rim, your view is to the west to Tunnel Bay and Ship Stern Bluff. There are also views of Bruny Island, the island’s Fluted Cape, the south coast, Mount Wellington and many other distant peaks. The high cliffs here catch the full force of prevailing westerly winds so mists swirl in and keep vegetation damp and thriving. There are also tall eucalyptus trees and great groves of banksia.

Planning essentials

1 Pick the appropriate season and the right weather for your walk. Use sunscreen, especially at high altitudes, and wear a hat.

2 Deviating from tracks and taking “short cuts” can create erosion. Stick to well-defined tracks.

3 Always carry the correct gear, including maps, compass, water and food rations. Use the correct footwear for the conditions.

4 Leave route details, timing, vehicle registration and next of kin in writing with someone you trust and report back upon your return.