Tiger Tales

All Aboard

The best way to explore the wonders of the Andaman Sea is by boat, says GREG LOWE, where sailors can get acquainted with the thousands of islets and beaches dotting the waters around Krabi and Phuket

CHART YOUR OWN COURSE

Freedom seekers are best suited to private charters and experienced sailors can captain yachts. But fully crewed charters remain a popular choice and can be reasonably priced, particularly if you have your own group of mates willing to split costs. Many charters start off at Phang Nga Bay before sailing on to Krabi and the broad expanses of the Andaman Sea to explore fluorescent coral reefs and deserted islands, says Kevin Quilty, managing director of Sunsail (Thailand).

“The beauty of sailing is that everything is extremely relaxed and informal – you go wherever you feel like and where the wind is favourable,” he says. “You’ll see all sorts of wildlife including monkeys feeding on the coral, eagles soaring over the islands, lots of beautifully coloured fish and, if you’re lucky, dolphins will swim along with the yacht.”

Amazing Lanta is a good port of call if you’re keen to explore the quieter waters further south. It runs charters and diving livaboards out of Lanta Island – part of an 85-island archipelago near Krabi – and specialises in lesser-known destinations, such as Koh Haa, Koh Rok, Koh Muk and Tarutao National Park.

“We offer a unique sailing experience to areas of the Andaman that other yacht charters from Phuket or Krabi are unlikely to reach, enabling us to get away from the crowds to experience true tranquillity,” says tour coordinator Rob Lee. “We visit destinations for the stunning beauty, unspoiled, picture-postcard beaches and crystal-clear waters. We visit the more popular places at different times of the day than other tours so it always feels like you have the beach to yourself.”

PRICES AT SUNSAIL THAILAND (www.SUNSAILTHAILAND.COM) RANGE FROM THB10,000 (S$419/AU$335) PER DAY FOR A 35FT BAREBOAT TO THB60,000 (S$2,515/ AU$2,013) FOR A FULLY CREWED 46FT SAILING CATAMARAN. PRICES AT AMAZING LANTA (SALADAN, KOH LANTA, TEL: +66 (0)85 117 4621, HTTP://AMAZINGLANTA.COM) RANGE FROM ABOUT THB6,000 (S$252/AU$201) FOR A HALF-DAY CHARTER TO THB13,000 (S$545/ AU$436) FOR A FULL DAY.

ANDAMAN ADRENALIN

If you have a passion for power, nothing beats the pace of a speedboat tour. These revved-up excursions offer the best that luxury and high-octane have to offer, with the added perk of being able to go further and faster than is possible for any yacht.

Twinpalms Phuket, a resort on Phuket’s Surin Beach, runs private speedboat tours aboard the Catch One, a Beneteau 750 Flyer that can reach speeds in excess of 30 knots.

Guests can tour either Phang Nga Bay or the more secluded getaway of the Racha Islands. “Racha Yai reveals itself in splendid fashion, with most arrivals landing on a strip of fine white sand tucked deep into the long, U-shaped main bay, called Ao Tawan Tok,” says Jonathan Siksik, Twinpalms guest relations manager. “The water here is clear and perfect for snorkelling. The other large bay, Ao Siam, is a pretty place where strolls in solitude are possible. Racha Noi is uninhabited.”

While tearing through the waves at high speeds is the reason to get on board, these faster boats have the added advantage of giving passengers both more time to enjoy the destination and the luxury of steering clear of other tour groups. “You discover unsuspected places,” Jonathan says. “As privacy is one of our first priorities, we guarantee calm and serenity... and unforgettable moments on paradisiacal islands, in a protected environment.”

SPEEDBOAT TOUR PRICES AT THE TWINPALMS PHUKET, SURIN BEACH RD, PHUKET, TEL: +66 (0)76 316 500, HTTP://TWINPALMS-PHUKET.COM) START FROM THB9,500 (S$398/AU$318) PER COUPLE PER DAY. ADDITIONAL PEOPLE COST THB2,000 (S$88/AU$67) EACH UP TO A MAXIMUM OF FOUR.

RIDE THE WIND

Kite surfing may be the ideal sport for the adrenalin-addicted lazy romantic. In contrast to surfing or sailboarding, even a novice will be ready to harness the power of nature and ride the waves at breakneck speeds within a matter of hours. The requirements: the ability to swim 30 metres, a day to learn and the fee for the course.

“Using the natural elements of mother nature to propel yourself effortlessly across the water and into the air is like flying without wings – once you try this sport you will be immediately addicted,” says Willy Kerr, owner of Kite Surfing Phuket. “It will change your life. Not only is it easier to learn the sport than surfing, the required fitness levels are much lower as the power is in the harness. Riders can steer the kite with two fingers.”

Phuket is Thailand’s best kite-surfing spot, with winds from two seasonal monsoons and plenty of flat beaches and quality launching spots making kiting possible 10 months a year.

“We also head out to the islands searching for the best wind on that day,” Willy says. “It’s never the same spot. Riders get to cruise across some of the most spectacular clear water and marine life the Andaman has to offer. The winds usually subside by afternoon so we have a barbeque and beers on the nearest island before heading back.”

A ONE-HOUR TASTER AT KITE SURFING PHUKET (NAI YANG BEACH, PHUKET, TEL: +66 (0)83 395 2005, www.KITESURFINGPHUKET.COM) COSTS THB1,200 (S$51/AU$40) WITH FEES FOR THE THREE-DAY TRAINING COURSE STARTING FROM THB11,000 (S$461/AU$370).

JOIN IN THE FUN

If you don’t want to splash out on a charter, fear not – a number of join-in tours also permit you to live out your dream of sailing the Andaman. Jabu Days Cruises runs day trips aboard the Jabuticaba, a luxurious 24m twin-masted wooden schooner with polished teak decks and a mahogany hull. Champagne cruises run six days a week with a brunch cruise every Sunday.

“Phang Nga remains the most spectacular cruising ground in Asia,” says managing director Vishal Sood. “It’s the perfect place to enjoy the incredible scenery from aboard a luxurious, classic-style wooden boat, sipping on wine or champagne, listening to groovy music, savouring delicious food and topping it off with a magical sunset.”

The emphasis is on fun. Guests can jump overboard to snorkel – as long as the captain says it’s safe – walk the plank or head ashore by dinghy. For Vishal, the magic of the experience was proven when two guests fell in love on the cruise then came back as a couple.

If island-hopping is on your mind, Asian Oasis runs a 10-person four-day, three-night cruise aboard the Suwan Macha, a red-sailed wooden junk that sails to Krabi, Phi Phi Island and back to Phuket. “Once the mast is rigged, the sailing experience begins,” says Bruce Hancock, director of operations. “We choose the destinations based on the beauty of the scenery and the tranquillity when anchoring overnight.

Each destination is unique in terms of the waters, the scenery and the ability to view wildlife.”

PRICES AT JABU DAYS CRUISES (MAI KHAO, PHUKET, TEL: +66 (0)85 666 5504, www.JABUDAYS.COM) START FROM THB2,400 (S$101/AU$80) PER ADULT. AT ASIAN OASIS IN PHUKET (TEL: +66 (0)76 376 192, www.ASIAN-OASIS.COM), HIGH-SEASON PRICES START FROM THB32,250 (S$1,353/AU$1,081) PER PERSON SHARING A DOUBLE CABIN.

PADDLE POWER

Sea kayaking is probably the most tranquil way to soak up the Andaman’s stunning sights and you’d be hard-pressed to get closer to nature without jumping in for a swim. Resting on the sea’s surface allows for a different perspective on both the undersea marine life and local geology than that offered by other types of boat. Moreover, venturing out in a quiet and petrol-free craft is by far the most environmentally sensitive way to explore the Andaman.

Phang Nga Bay remains the most popular destination owing to its calm waters, cave paintings, stunning limestone islands, hong (lagoons) and mangrove swamps. Paddlers have the freedom to go where they wish, or to just float by and admire the flora and fauna. However, visibility is poor for snorkelling because of the bay’s estuarial waters

“Our trips are really evolution trips starting with dinoflagellates, a bioluminescent plankton that is over a

billion years old,” says John Gray, owner of John Gray Sea Canoe. “We have 580-million-year-old chitons (molluscs) and other waterline critters like gooseneck barnacles and encrusting sponges. There are mudskippers, the first vertebrate to leave the sea for land, banded water monitors, Pacific reef egrets, Bramany kites, brown-winged kingfishers, white-belly sea eagles and crab-eating macaques. We also give a fairly detailed rap on how the bay was formed and discuss the impact of weather and global warming.”

THE HONGS BY STARLIGHT TOUR FROM JOHN GRAY SEA CANOE (YAOWARAT RD, PHUKET, TEL: +66 (0)76 254 505, www.JOHNGRAY-SEACANOE.COM) STARTS AFTER MIDDAY, GIVING PARTICIPANTS THE CHANCE TO PADDLE PHANG NGA BAY THEN KAYAK AT NIGHT WHILE MARVELLING AT THE SHIMMERING BEAUTY OF THE DINOFLAGELLATES. THE COST IS THB3,950 (S$166/AU$133) FOR ADULTS, INCLUDING FOOD AND TRANSFERS.