Tiger Tales

At the Speed of Night

Starting with the Singapore F1 Grand Prix, the only Formula 1 race that flags off after sundown, ROSS WALLACE lays out a seven-night itinerary of after-dark diversions in the Lion City

THE WHEEL THING (Sun)

By the time drivers Lewis Hamilton, Kimi Raikkonen and defending champ Fernando Alonso, among others, line up for the 8pm start of the Singapore F1 Grand Prix, most punters will already have done a few laps of their own at the race’s Marina Bay street circuit. After all, there’s more to F1 weekend from 25-27 September than the 309km race. For starters, music fans can look forward to performances by Scottish alternative rockers Travis, the Backstreet Boys, Youssou N’Dour, Chaka Khan, top Filipino band Rivermaya and Singapore’s own Electrico.

There’s also a host of roving artists, including Melbourne’s Strange Fruit and Brazilian Samba girls, along with another can’t-miss dance party courtesy of Singapore uber-club Zouk, featuring DJs like UK techno godfather Carl Cox and progressive tech- techhouse mainstay John Digweed. If that doesn’t get house your engine purring, nothing will.

EAST OF EVERYTHING (Mon)

Being that central and western Singapore have so much to offer park-wise, it’s tempting to think that denizens of the east might feel a wee bit slighted. Not so when the area is home to sprawling East Coast Park, a beach- and bike path-lined people-magnet that stretches for nearly 20km along the ocean front.

Packed with fun-seekers travelling on foot, on rollerblades and on single and tandem rental bicycles at all hours of the day and night, the park is also home to Ski360º Cable Ski Park. Here, for hourly rates starting at S$32/AU$28, punters on skis, wakeboards and kneeboards are towed around the 650m perimeter of a man-made lagoon where they can use ramps to perform aquabatics or just enjoy the ride.

Daredevil stunts are also the order of the day (or night) at the newly built Xtreme Skatepark nearby. Covering about 3,000sqm, the facility boasts a mix of bowl, street and plaza spaces, making it a custom-fit for skateboarders, inline skaters and BMX bikers of any skill level.

And for a night-time makan (eating) session, look no further than the hawker stall-style East Coast Lagoon Food Centre and nearby al fresco restaurant-style East Coast Seafood Centre. Don’t call it your fourth meal of the day if you happen to arrive well past the dinner hour. To Singaporeans, that’s just “supper.”

CREATURES ON THE LOOSE (Tue)

If your animal instincts kick in after dark, you’ll feel right at home at the Night Safari. Here, visitors are given the opportunity to get up close to more than 1,000 nocturnal creatures representing at least 100 species – everything from tigers to bats to anteaters to giant flying squirrels –in subtly lit naturalistic habitats. Explorations of the eight jungle-like zones at the 400,000sqm facility can be done on foot or on trams – some with on-board food and beverage feasts – and there are also cultural and wildlife shows.

And in October, the Night Safari puts its unique spin on Halloween, with ghouls, goblins and other decidedly unnatural creatures of the night converging on a “Haunted Rainforest”. Hop aboard the Halloween Cocktail Express and sip on a “Witch’s Potion” while “Count Dracula” and “The Mummy”, among others, swarm the park.

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT (Wed)

They may be unfortunately named, but the Singapore River’s bumboats played a major role in the city-state’s transformation from backwater fishing village to bustling metropolis. Whereas once they carried supplies, these days the boats ferry tourists along the waterway to admire the colonial buildings, historic bridges, skyscrapers and chic dining and entertainment spots in and around Singapore’s three key quays: Boat Quay, Robertson Quay and Clarke Quay. The latter is also home to the G-Max Reverse Bungy, where punters endure 5 Gs of force as they’re slung-shot skywards at up to 200km/h, and the 125 km/h freefall/ flight hybrid GX5 Extreme Swing (S$60/AU$52 to try both). Let’s see Fernando Alonso get behind the wheel after a stomach-churning ride on one of those.

TURNABOUT IS FAIR PLAY (Thu)

Towering above Marina Bay at a height of 42 stories (165m), Singapore’s giant observation wheel offers stunning views of the city, the bay and even parts of far-off Indonesia. Each of the wheel’s 28 air-conditioned capsules can hold 28 passengers, and a ride on the Flyer – during which it makes one complete revolution – takes about 30 minutes. To enjoy it all at the height of luxury, opt for the world’s first full butler-service dining experience in the sky at S$199/AU$172 per couple or try the Moet & Chandon Champagne Flight at S$69/AU$60, which includes a glass of bubbly, chocolate and strawberries, VIP Lounge access and express boarding. Best to hold off on the after-dinner stroll until you’re safely back on terra firma.

NIGHT CROSSING (Fri)

The wild life in Singapore isn’t limited to the zoo – nor to the pubs and clubs along Clarke Quay. Little known to many visitors is the fact that the city-state boasts vast swaths of parkland, some not far from the downtown core.

One such natural oasis that can be enjoyed both during the day and after dark is Telok Blangah Hill Park, part of a 9km chain of green spaces extending from Mount Faber Park through Kent Ridge Park to West Coast Park, all connected via foot paths and bridges. A popular venue for wedding photo shoots and picnics, Telok Blangah Hill Park is home to the unique undulating bridge known as the Henderson Waves.

A daytime or moonlight stroll from Mount Faber Park and across the bridge – Singapore’s highest pedestrian walkway at 36m above ground – leads to the raised pedestrian bridges of the Forest Walk with their bird’s-eye views of the canopy below. Beyond are the flower gardens of HortPark, which are as lovely by starlight as they are at high noon. That’s right, they don’t call it a garden city for nothing.

BY THE LIGHT OF THE MALL (Sat)

If eating is Singapore’s national pastime, ranking a close second is the all-powerful urge to shop. It’s no secret that the island-state is a paradise for retail therapy junkies but what’s less well known is that shopaholics can get their fix around the clock. With rare exceptions, the popular Orchard Road shopping strip keeps opening hours of 11am to 11pm. However, not every commercial haven slams the shutters when the witching hour nears.

In Little India, the four-decade-old Mustafa Centre stays open 24 hours and packs everything from electronics to fragrances to funky apparel into 6,500sqm of retail space spread over six stories. While not as liberal in its operating hours, the outdoor Chinatown Night Market encompassing Pagoda, Trengganu and Sago streets keeps things hopping until 1am on weekends and public holidays. Here, silks and handmade ornaments share space with fashion goods designed by Singapore entrepreneurs. The Traditional Chinese Medicine practitioners here might even have the right concoction to keep you on the move for another seven nights.