Tiger Tales

48 Hours in Bangalore

Follow Richard Shaw’s itinerary and discover the “new face of India” in two days

It’s been called the Garden City, the Pub City, the Friendly City – but after two days here, we reckon Booming City is more apt. There may be over 700 IT companies calling Bangalore home, but we assure you that this isn’t just some nerdy IT hub.

Spend some time here, and you’ll quickly discover the delights of one of the nation’s more liberal metropolises and some wonderful charms of the old India.

DAY ONE

08:00 Lazy breakfast at Cafe Terre
Start the day with a chuckle at Cafe Terre. No, we’re not talking about the menu – head for the bookshelf which is packed with comic books you won’t want to put down.

If you manage to tear yourself away from Tintin, Asterix, and co, pull up a stool and get cosy with the menu. What this popular spot lacks in size more than makes up for it with its jam-packed menu.

The house speciality is the Belgian Waffles, but you won’t be disappointed with anything on the menu – from pancakes, omelettes, and muffins, to a good old fry-up. The freshly ground coffee won’t disappoint either. Expect to pay around INR250 (SGD9.25) for two.

Find it: Cafe Terra, V3 Trinity, 1020 First Floor, 80 Ft Road, First Block, Koramangala, tel: +91 (0)80 4131 3553

09:00 Taxi to Bull Temple
One of Bangalore’s oldest Hindu Temples was built by the city’s original ruler, Kempegowda, during the 16th century. Hordes of tourists visit daily to pay homage to the huge four-metre-high by six-metre-long statue of Nandi, Lord Shiva’s Bull, from where the temple gets its name.

According to the tale of local legends, this Dravidian-style temple and Nandi statue were originally constructed to mollify a menacing bull who caused havoc for farmers in the area.

Although the temple is especially busy on weekends, it is often the most colourful time to visit, so try and brave the crowds; scores of bridal parties come here for a blessing, while music processions and singers add to the noise level. Admission is free.

Find it: Bull Temple, Bull Temple Road, Bugle Hill

10:30 Taxi to City Market
Bangalore may represent the face of modern India, but a visit to the City Market will propel you to the India of poplar imagination. Over 100 years old, this vibrant market swings into action around dawn, and is bustling by mid-morning.

Awash with merchants hawking everything from fruit and vegetables to herbs and spices, the market is a photographer’s dream, and the flower section is especially colourful.

12:20 Taxi to St Marks Road. Lunch at Koshy’s Restaurant and Jewel Box
Around the corner from trendy shopping strip, MG Road, Koshy’s has been a local institution for over 50 years. With a long menu featuring almost everything from Indian to Continental fare, this popular meeting spot is perennially packed.

The Mutton Stew is renowned as the best in town, as are Koshy’s South Indian specialities.

For those hankering for some Western food, try the Lamb Burger. Sitting on a beer and a book is totally acceptable but sit in the Jewel Box section (the only part of the restaurant with air-conditioning), which will give some respite from the buzzing restaurant atmosphere. Expect to pay around INR350 (SGD12.95) for two persons.

Find it: Koshy’s, 39 St Marks Road, tel: +91 (0)80 2221 3793

13:50 Walk to Cubbon Park
The short walk to the 140-year-old Cubbon Park offers 120 delightful hectares of trees, flowerbeds and rolling lawns.

But this is no ordinary park. Spend an afternoon exploring the “Lungs of Bangalore”, where several prominent monuments are tucked away, including the gothic-styled Public Library, the neo-classical High Court Building and the Government Museum and Venkatappa Art Gallery.

Kids will love the new doll museum and aquarium. Just outside the park’s western flank and built from local granite in neo-Dravidian style, the Vidhana Soudha, Bangalore’s most famous landmark, houses Karnataka’s State Legislature.

Find it: Cubbon Park, enter from Mahatma Gandhi Road (MG Road)

19:00 Taxi to Indiranagar. Dinner at South Indies Restaurant
Featuring cuisine from four states – Karnataka, Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Andhra Pradesh – South Indies is the place to experience the exotic tastes of South Indian fare.

The 19-year-old wonder boy entrepreneur Vijay Abhimanyu and famous cricket commentator, Venkatesh Bhat, have made it their mission to put South Indies on the foodies map. With exceptional food, impeccable service and a warm ambience, enjoy house specialities like the Kannadiga Oota meal from Karnataka, the Sadhya vegetable feast of Kerala, and the spicy chutneys of India’s spiciest state Andhra Pradesh.

Find it: South Indies, 840/A 100 Ft Road, Indiranagar, tel: +91 (0)80 4163 6363

21:00 Taxi to Residency Road. Drinks at Amnesia
Finish the day off with a fresh cocktail at this chic poolside lounge bar. One of Bangalore’s hottest hangouts, Amnesia has a great ambience and weekends see this place packed as Resident DJ Leon spins a range of retro, hip hop and house beats. Open Wednesday to Sunday nights.

Find it: Amnesia, Chancery Pavilion, Residency Road, tel: +91 (0)80 4141 4141

DAY TWO

08:00 MG Road. Breakfast at Indian Coffee House
From the tasty and inexpensive Masala Dosas and Idlys to Butter Toast and Scrambled Eggs, breakfast at this chain coffee house is a must – it is super cheap but is actually better than most pricier joints, without skimping on taste.

Spiced chai tea might be the drink of India, but most gather here for their morning caffeine injection, which is locally produced.

Find it: Indian Coffee House, 78 MG Road, Bangalore

08:50 Taxi to Lal Bagh Botanical Gardens
With Bangalore dubbed “Garden City”, a morning stroll around the tranquil Botanical Gardens, with the big city bustle locked outside, is divine.

Over 200 years old, India’s most romantic green patch features lotus ponds, glasshouses, the nation’s first floral clock, trees which are more than 100 years old, and the subcontinent’s largest collection of rare plants.

Head to the top of a watchtower in the north side of the garden where you’ll get a killer view of the rapidly developing city skyline.

Admission is free before 9am and costs INR7 (SGD0.25) after.

10:30 Taxi to Karnataka Chitrkala Parishat Contemporary Art Gallery
The rising business and IT giant of the new India is also home to a healthy contemporary arts scene.

Part of the Karnataka Chitrkala Parishat College of Fine Arts, Bangalore’s Karnataka Chitrkala Parishat Gallery combines a permanent collection of traditional paintings and local artefacts with temporary exhibitions showcasing the talents of Indian and international visual artists. The unique works of many of the college’s high-achieving students are often featured.

Find it: Karnataka Chitrkala Parishat Contemporary Art Gallery, Kumarakrupa Road, tel: +91 (0)80 2226 1816

12:00 Taxi to Indiranagar. Lunch at Herbs and Spice
After a traditional Indian breakfast, head to one of the city’s much lauded restaurants. This time, sumptuous Italian at Herbs and Spice is in order.

Hidden down an alley, the chefs here know how to bring out true Italian flavours with authentic ingredients. Dishes like spinach and cheese ravioli in tomato basil pesto will may you think about returning for dinner.

Find it: Herbs and Spice, #39, 80 Ft Road, HAL 3rd Stage, Indiranagar, tel: +91 (0)80 2529 0399

 

13:30 Taxi to M Chinnaswamy Stadium
The British impact on India is unmistakable – and there’s nothing more British than a game of cricket on the Village Green. It’s no secret that cricket is a national obsession in India, and on virtually any afternoon across the nation, you’ll find people playing cricket on every patch of space – from public parks to riverside ghats.

Bangalore’s M Chinnaswamy Stadium, seating around 70,000 excited fans, is the city’s biggest cricket arena. If there is an international test match here and rivals Pakistan or Australia are playing, expect the large crowd to be truly animated.

Find it: M Chinnaswamy Stadium, MG Road, www.cricketkarnataka.com

16:00 Afternoon shopping along MG and Brigade Roads
The MG Road area is Bangalore’s shopping Mecca for locals and tourists. With shops of every kind, from traditional handicraft stores and the famous Cauvery Craft Emporium to designer stores featuring the latest fashion and the finest sarees.

Brigade Road was where British soldiers once bought necessities, but now is the epicentre for Bangalore’s emerging class of yuppies.

19:00 Dinner, Ebony
For your last night in Bangalore, head straight for the 13th floor of MG Road’s tallest building. With its lofty heights and an outdoor patio, the stunning views at Ebony overlooking the city, coupled with an eclectic menu of French and Thai creates a unique dining experience.

Thai food is served daily with a live cooking counter on Thursday and Friday (reserve ahead). The desserts are truly sumptuous. Make sure you stick around until late when Ebony transforms into a stylish rooftop cocktail bar.

Find it: Ebony, Barton Centre, 84 MG Road, tel: +91 (0)80 2558 9333

22:00 Drinks at Athena
Wind up your visit with a night at Athena. Subtle lighting and an exclusive VIP area sees the city’s part set mingle and dance, while DJ Sash makes sure the dance floor buzzes with the latest electro, hip hop, house, and of course, Bollywood tunes.

Find it: Athena, Leela Palace, 23 Airport Road, Bangalore, tel: +91 (0)80 4126 5417

Know Before You Go Bangalore is vast, but a city is best seen by foot. Your feet will thank you if you stick to the two central areas of interest: Gandhi Nagar, the old part of town where you’ll find the City Market and the Lalbagh Botanical Gardens; and Mahatma Gandhi (MG) Road, a must for first-time visitors. Even if shopping doesn’t interest you, go for the buzzy atmosphere alone. Make sure you grab a map when you arrive (available at tourist offices and any bookshop along MG Road), slip on a pair of your comfy walking shoes and hit the pavement. If you don’t trust your navigation skills, join a walking tour. Bangalore Walks (www.bangalorewalks.com) is run by locals in the know and have Heritage Walks, City Tours and day tours to Mysore and the Nandi Hills. We recommend signing up for the Bangalore by Night Tour which includes dinner and a quirky walking tour of the city’s pub and night scene.