Tiger Tales

The Great Escape

Want to enjoy a quick holiday this festive season?

Tiger Tales shares five great weekend trips to take, beginning with Chris Canty’s introduction to the spectacular

Freycinet Peninsula in Launceston

Just two hours south-east of Launceston resides a sanctuary of world-class food and wine, set behind a stunning natural backdrop of unforgettable landscapes. Welcome to Freycinet Peninsula, and get ready to experience a weekend of daydreams.

The Freycinet National Park may be relatively unknown to those on Australia’s mainland, but for Tasmanians, it’s one of the many jewels of the state. With sandy beaches, stunning views from mountaintops, and local wildlife and fauna that pop up around every turn (curious wallabies may follow you), it makes the perfect Christmas break.

Wild Walk

Though romantics may want to slowly slip into the glorious scenery, the area has an assortment of attractions to enjoy, including food producers, wineries, rock-climbing, kayaking and fishing. Most come for the bushwalking, which is a great way to work off the great food you’ll undoubtedly sample.

The Isthmus Track Circuit Walk is the most popular and relatively gentle, taking around four to five hours, depending on how long you immerse yourself in the landscape. It starts by going around Mount Mayson to Hazards beach, where hundreds of old oyster shells are scattered over the shore.

Most come to see Wineglass Bay a further 30 minutes away, which has been regarded as one of the world’s most picturesque beaches. Sheltered from the wind, its pristine sand and intoxicating privacy offer a serenity which makes it almost impossible to leave. The cool water is also the perfect way to escape the December heat.

The walk ends in style as you are treated to the best seat in the house at the 216m lookout which offers a view to remember.

Luxurious Living

In such a beautiful place, it makes sense to stay somewhere that frames it perfectly. Situated within the Freycinet National Park, and lying at the edge of the water, Freycinet Lodge is one of country’s most picturesque hotels.

With its large open fireplace and nap-inducing couches facing huge bay windows, the Lodge is the perfect spot to forget about the outside world. The private pier nearby has played host to hundreds of marriage proposals, and you will see why when the sun starts to set.

Or you may wish to stay in your room, where the sea is so close to your private verandah and you’d be able to skim stones. The huge spa bath against the nearby window is a decadent spot for admiring the landscape.

The area’s award-winning produce can be best found at the lodge’s Bay Restaurant, including a seafood paella that would rival anything created in Spain. The incredibly fresh crayfish is another highlight. Make sure to book a table for their Christmas lunch menu which focuses solely on Tasmanian produce. For those who want to try a bit of everything, sample the “Taste of Tasmania” at 4.30pm daily, where local cuisine is matched by wines around the world.

If you are on a more modest budget, the Coles Bay YHA is only five minutes away in the tiny township that lies just before the National Park. It offers simple but clean dorms starting at AUD22 (SGD28.80) or doubles for AUD55 (SGD72.20) per room – a small price to pay to be on the doorstep to paradise.

They also organise a plethora of activities to keep you entertained. A friendly pub next to it offers pub meals and local beers on tap.

Wine and Dine

For incredible value and the chance to try the freshest oysters and mussels, visit the Freycinet Marine Farm.

For only AUD12 (SGD15.75) for a dozen oysters – a steal, considering they supply the best restaurants in Sydney and Melbourne. Sit in the beer garden and consume what was most likely brought in from the sea earlier that day.

For a great wine, visit the open cellar of the Freycinet Vineyard. They have a great selection of labels, including chardonnay and pinot noir which are ideally suited to the locally sourced seafood.

For beer lovers, try the Hazard Beer which is also made here – crisp and perfect for those January BBQs, for when you return back home.

Freycinet Peninsula’s glorious scenery is matched only by the food and wine it produces, so for a memorable Christmas break that includes the best of what Tasmania has to offer, finish the year off in style. You can’t go wrong here.

WHERE TO STAY

■ Freycinet Lodge Freycinet National Park tel: 1800 084620 website: www.puretasmania.com.au

■ Iluka Backpackers YHA Esplanade Coles Bay 7215 tel: +61 (0)3 6257 0115 website: www.yha.com.au

■ Freycinet Marine Farm Look for the sign on the road leading towards Freycinet tel: +61 (0)3 6257 0140 website: www.freycinetmarinefarm.com

■ Freycinet Vineyards Tasman Highway tel: +61 (0)3 6257 8384 website: www.freycinetvineyard.com.au

CAR HIRE

■ Hertz Launceston Airport, Evandale Ave, tel: +61 (0)3 6391 8388 website: www.hertz.com

TIGER AIRWAYS FLIES DAILY BETWEEN MELBOURNE AND LAUNCESTON FROM 29 NOVEMBER 2007. AUSTRALIAN DOMESTIC FLIGHTS ARE SUBJECT TO REGULATORY APPROVAL. BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS TODAY AT www.TIGERAIRWAYS.COM

a clean Green Scene

If the hustle and bustle of Guangzhou is too much to cope with this Chinese New Year season, head to Zhuhai for the perfect seaside holiday. Hope Twyford takes a trip

Guangzhou may be known as the business centre of Southern China, but the laid-back seaside city of Zhuhai, two and a half hours from Guangzhou, is the place to come and recharge weary batteries.

A short hop over the border from Macau, Zhuhai was one of the first cities to be granted Special Economic Zone (SEZ) status. While it has benefited from its close proximity to Hong Kong and Macau, Zhuhai has never enjoyed the same level of success as other SEZs such as Shenzhen, but this “underachievement” has its advantages: Zhuhai is known as China’s cleanest and greenest city, making it the ideal holiday spot for travellers who are looking for a new experience in China.

The best time to visit Zhuhai is during Chinese New Year (7-9 February 2008). The weather is cool but pleasant, and humidity levels are significantly lower than in summer.

Relaxed City

Living by the sea agrees with the folks here. They are visibly calmer and more relaxed than their Guangdong neighbours, and visitors are left with no choice but to follow suit and slow down!

Locals take advantage of Zhuhai’s picturesque surroundings and relax by walking, jogging or cycling along the esplanade.

While Zhuhai is not known for its abundant tourist attractions, there are a few worth visiting. The New Summer Palace (Yuan Ming Xin Yuan) is a partial reconstruction of the original Summer Palace (Yuan Ming Yuan) in Beijing. It is situated at the foot of Shilin Mountain and a hike (or a cable car ride) to the top offers breathtaking views of the entire city.

For some rest and reflection, head to the Buddhist temple on the small island in the middle of the lake. It is only accessible by boat and offers respite from the crowds. Early morning is the best time to see locals at play. Watch or join in the daily tai chi practice.

Zhuhai lives up to its green status – it is home to some very well-kept parks and gardens. Jingshan Park is the most popular with Chinese tourists who come to climb Paradise Hill. It takes about half an hour to climb to the top, and offers beautiful sea views. There is an amusement area where kids can go fishing and play on the rides.

Haibin Park faces the sea and has excellent walking paths and resting areas. You may “dress up” as a Chinese emperor or empress, complete with fake backdrops and props for a photo.

Beyond this, head to Zhuhai’s most visited attraction, Fish Girl (Yu Nu). This statue of a girl holding a pearl over her head is known as the symbol of Zhuhai and was inspired by a local legend about a girl who would wait by the waterfront daily for her long-lost love to return from sea. Most weekends, you will find couples posing for wedding portraits in front of Yu Nu.

Where to Dine

While you can still find restaurants serving more hearty meals such as hotpot and northern Chinese food (try Dong Bei Ren), most prefer to dine on lighter meals. Given Zhuhai’s location, seafood and yum cha are favourites. May Flower and Jin Yue Xuan are great places for yum cha. For delicious seafood, try May Flower and Shou Zhi Gong Dining Room.

WHERE TO STAY

Zhuhai has some excellent accommodation options, but as this is more of a business centre and not a tourist city, budget stays are hard to find.

Star City Hotel is a comfortable and reasonably-priced boutique hotel that is within walking distance to the esplanade and Bar Street area. 88 Jingshan Road, Jida, Zhuhai, tel: +86 (756) 3220 888

TIGER AIRWAYS FLIES DAILY BETWEEN SINGAPORE AND GUANGZHOU, AND BETWEEN SINGAPORE AND MACAU. BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS TODAY AT www.TIGERAIRWAYS.COM

Getting to Zhuhai from Guangzhou and Macau

Zhuhai’s climate is subtropical, and humid throughout the year. The cooler winter months allow for comfortable sightseeing with temperatures averaging 12 degrees Celsius.

The summer months are hot, with temperatures, usually hitting the 33 degrees in the summer; humidity at this time is particularly high.

FROM GUANGZHOU: The best way to get there is by bus. It is comfortable and clean, with buses departing for Zhuhai every 15 minutes. The Guangdong Long-Distance Bus Station on Huanshi Xi Road is the best bet. A one-way ticket costs RMB60 (SGD11.75) and the journey is two and a half hours long.

FROM MACAU: You can walk to Zhuhai from Macau! The two cities are linked by a narrow isthmus. You will cross the Border Gate. A short five-minute walk will literally take you from one city to another.

Alice Springs Rocks

The best way to enjoy the “Red Heart” is to rent a campervan for the weekend and go driving. Kerry Sharp shows you where to go

The desert capital of Alice Springs is the perfect launching pad for a weekend getaway. You can lose yourself for days in Aboriginal art galleries, heritage sites, wildlife features – like the renowned Alice Springs Desert Park – and other fascinating spots. But the world’s most famous outback town also sits in the middle of a desert landscape where astounding natural, cultural and historical attractions are less than an hour’s drive from town.

Let’s Party

Alice Springs is fun-loving yet sophisticated, and almost always in a party mood. Its calendar of famous annual festivals and madcap events involve everything from racing camels, a bottomless boat regatta on the dry Todd River bed, and racing bikes on a Finke Desert dash, to humble homemade “beanies” of every design and colour.

The annual festivals get under way in April and cram the calendar throughout the peak winter tourist months. Visit between 12 April and 5 May next year, and you’ll get swept up in the all glitz, glamour and horse-racing action of the Gold Alice Springs Cup Carnival, staged in the surrounds of the spectacular MacDonnell Ranges.

Happening around that same time is the week-long Alice Springs Heritage Festival, when the town applauds the pioneering events and characters that have inspired the spirit of Central Australia. Witness the Banktail Muster street parade when revellers use riotous antics to highlight the district’s early pastoral days when stockmen recorded the number of cattle mustered by lopping off the ends of their tails.

During the horse-racing carnival, Alice Springs is hyped to the hilt and a top place to be. But the best part for visitors is that the major events are spread over a month, leaving generous gaps for other pursuits, such as exploring breathtaking gorges, waterholes, Aboriginal art sites and historic man-made treasures just beyond the town.

Views on Wheels

Autumn is a glorious time to be outdoors in Australia’s red heart and nothing beats the freedom and flexibility of a “hotel-on-wheels” – a modern campervan. You can explore at your own pace, then rest for the night, drifting off to sleep to the sounds, smells and gentle breezes of the desert wafting through the windows. Drive as little or as far as you like in a day without demanding group travel schedules.

Central Australia’s habitually perfect weather means you can stop at any of the area’s bush campgrounds for the evening and rustle up a barbecue dinner.

More than 95% of all major Northern Territory tourist icons are accessible by safe sealed roads. This means you don't have to take an organised group tour to experience places like the majestic East and West MacDonnell Ranges - and you can drive to the biggest visitor draw cards of them all: Ayers Rock and the Olgas at Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and Kings Canyon at Watarrka National Park, in less than five hours.

Before packing up the camper for your foray out of town, it’s a great idea to explore Alice Springs itself. Highly recommended spots to visit are the Araluen cultural and heritage precinct, National Road Transport Hall of Fame, Royal Flying Doctor Service base, amazing Panorama Guth, Sounds of Starlight Theatre and Alice Springs Reptile Centre.

Road Tripping

For a priceless weekend getaway away from the crowds, explore the hauntingly beautiful East MacDonnell Ranges that meander 100km into the outback. Visit the East Macs’ Emily and Jessie Gaps and Corroboree Rock in a day. Walk the sheer quartzite clifftops and river red gum-lined creek bed of majestic Trephina Gorge, and explore the relics at Arltunga, Australia’s most remote gold rush town in the late 1800s.

Heading back west, drop into the old Ross River Homestead to browse the historic relics and tuck into sumptuous homemade beef pie. Ross River Resort has an excellent shady, grassed campground, with powered and unpowered sites.

Take in the many gorges, waterholes and wilderness walking trails dotted along the breathtaking West MacDonnell Ranges. Towering Standley Chasm at midday is a remarkable sight.

As you travel further west and spot the purple hues of majestic Mount Sonder ahead, you are on the doorstep of Glen Helen Lodge where you can camp for the night.

A five-hour drive north of Alice Springs lies the Barkly Tablelands town of Tennant Creek with its Battery Hill gold mining remnants and renowned Nyinkka Nyunyu Aboriginal Art and Cultural Centre. The Barkly is also home to the famous Devils Marbles, where nature plays a remarkable balancing act with giant boulders; the old stone Barrow Creek Telegraph Station once used to transmit messages along the historic telegraph line.

Sealed road offshoots east and west of the highway open up even more treats – like Gemtree where you can camp and look for semi-precious stones; the Wycliffe Wells wayside inn and campground with its eerie history of UFO sightings and dramatic artworks to match, and the town of Ti Tree, home to an Aboriginal art centre, thriving tablegrape industry and small farm shop stocking local produce such as mango wines and relishes.

You can’t visit Central Australia without a trip to the most famous desert icons of them all, Ayers Rock and Olgas of Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park. With a few days to spare, you can easily spend time admiring these breathtaking masterpieces, exploring the nooks and crannies around their sheer rock faces, and taking a guided cultural tour with the local Aboriginal custodians of this land.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

HIRING CAMPERVANS IN ALICE SPRINGS Britz Campervan Rentals / Maui Campervan Rentals tel: +61 (0)8 8952 8814 website: www.britz.com

Apollo Motorhome Holidays tel: +61 (0)8 8977 7779 website: www.apollocamper.com

KEA Campers Australia tel: +61 (0)8 8955 5525 website: www.keacampers.com

BEST TIME TO GO
Between April and late September. Festival season is from mid April to early May. Alice Springs and its outlying attractions are busiest around June, July and August, so if you prefer to avoid crowd, plan to go earlier or later.

TIGER AIRWAYS FLIES BETWEEN MELBOURNE AND ALICE SPRINGS THREE TIMES WEEKLY FROM 1 DEC. AUSTRALIAN DOMESTIC FLIGHTS ARE SUBJECT TO REGULATORY APPROVAL. BOOK FLIGHTS AT www.TIGERAIRWAYS.COM

HIRING CAMPERVANS IN ALICE SPRINGS Britz Campervan Rentals / Maui Campervan Rentals tel: +61 (0)8 8952 8814 website: www.britz.com

Apollo Motorhome Holidays tel: +61 (0)8 8977 7779 website: www.apollocamper.com

KEA Campers Australia tel: +61 (0)8 8955 5525 website: www.keacampers.com

BEST TIME TO GO Between April and late September. Festival season is from mid April to early May. Alice Springs and its outlying attractions are busiest around June, July and August, so if you prefer to avoid crowd, plan to go earlier or later.

a whole new world

Take a ferry from Singapore to the island of Bintan, Indonesia, for a relaxing break, says Bethany Ng

Being a stone’s throw from Singapore, those who are time-starved can get some R&R just 55 minutes away by ferry. Bintan Island, Indonesia, offers all the beachside appeal of Singapore without the stress.

Bintan is just 40km from Singapore and is the largest of the Riau Islands. Tanjung Pinang, the Riau capital, is located at the south-western tip of Bintan. While its sister island Batam has developed into an industrial town with substantial Singaporean investments, Bintan has become the resort playground of the Riau Islands and is a favourite among Singaporeans.

Bintan is blessed with beautiful white beaches and year-round tropical weather. Take a South Bintan tour that brings you to the heart of this island that is Tanjung Pinang, Senggarang and Pulau Penyengat. Explore Tanjung Pinang’s fish and fruit markets; seasoned Singaporeans often haul home snacks and condiments by the truckloads.

Architecturally, Bintan is rich with heritage sites, clustered in Pulau Penyengat, centre of the Malay Riau-Lingga empire. These include an old Dutch fort built in the 18th century and the Sultan of Riau Grand Mosque which is believed to have been built with egg white!

Although Bintan, being part of Indonesia, is a Muslim island, Senggarang is a Chinese fishing settlement and filled with centuries-old Buddhist temples, making it a popular pilgrimage site.

Visitors can even opt for trendy eco tours. Explore a traditional Indonesian kampung (village) and watch how they weave pandan leaves and tap trees for rubber.

The Big Bintan Outdoors

Bintan is built for the sporty traveller. Gunung Bintan is situated at 340m, the highest point in all of Riau. Once an active volcano, it’s now called a mountain and a must-trek for the outdoorsy visitor.

Lagoi Park and Reservoir is a large (14.7km sq) reservoir that supplies potable water to all the island’s resorts, and is open to kayak enthusiasts.

For company outings, Bintan offers a menu of corporate training activities. Paintball is a big favourite, with companies playing out scenarios of team rescue and hostage situations.

For a more edgy team-building exercise, there is the Adventure Training Centre. Teams climb up a tower using tight-ropes and rickety ladders. Fastest team to make it to the top (and the only way down is by flying fox) wins. It is unnerving stuff that is meant to emotionally glue you to your workmates.

That may or may not work, but the exercise is definitely fun.

All-In-One Holiday

On Bintan Island, there are plenty of hotels to stay at – Mana Mana Beach Club is the choice of backpackers and swinging singles; Angsana Resort and Spa Bintan for girlfriends who prioritise their spa treatments; and luxury hotel Banyan Tree for canoodling couples.

For the family (or families) with multiple kids and maybe even grandparents, nothing beats Bintan Lagoon Resort. This resort is also a favourite with corporations due to its sheer size.

Bintan Lagoon is the largest resort on Bintan Island, covering over 300 hectares of ground, much of which faces the tranquil South China Sea. There are 473 rooms, suites and villas, all tastefully done up in a modern Balinese style.

The Floral Suites are built for honeymooning couples, with a jacuzzi and private sundeck, while the Forest Suites offer separate living areas for parents and an adjoining suite for two children.

For VIPs, there are two huge suites – the Indraloka and Swargaloka, which come with separate living areas, sofa lounges and executive club access.

Private Villa

The best option for families is the villa. There are three types which vary in size and view, and all are equipped with a kitchen and BBQ facilities.

The largest of these, the Angsoka villa offers plenty of creature comforts. Watch DVDs indoors all day or dip in the private pool in the back garden. The villas are located a few minutes away from the main hotel, so every villa is equipped with a golf buggy so you can get to the big pool or restaurants for meals.

If you’d rather have your food come to you, full-service in-room BBQ dining is available. For SGD200, there is enough food for 10 adults. A professional “BBQer” will do the grilling for you.

At the resort, two grand pools, including one with a waterslide, are guaranteed to keep your kids busy for hours. The beach is just a minute away – relax with a book and gaze at the clear horizon.

The resort also offers activities in the unlikely event guests get bored: archery, all-terrain vehicles, beach volleyball, go-karting, petanque, elephant rides, Laserquest as well as sea sports such as snorkelling, scuba-diving and jet ski. Or just enjoy a massage in the privacy of your own villa or a sala by the beach.

Dinner at Nelayan, the beachside restaurant, is highly recommended. Take your pick from a huge spread of fresh seafood – snapper, prawn, lobster – or sirloin steaks for meat eaters. Your selection is freshly grilled and served with a buffet of salads, starches and dessert.

Work off all that food on the championship 18-hole golf courses. Both are designed by golf legends, Jack Nicklaus and Ian Baker-Finch. Each offers different terrain, landscapes and water hazards to challenge golfers of all standards.

WHERE TO STAY

■ Bintan Lagoon Resort Jalan Indera Segara, Bintan Utara, Lagoi, Riau, Indonesia tel: +62 (0)770 691388 (Indonesia) or +65 6750 2280 (Singapore) website: www.bintanlagoon.com

THINGS TO DO

■ BRC Nature and Heritage Tours tel: +62 (0)770 692092 Daily tours by land or see Lagoi Park and Reservoir tel: +62 (0)770 692092 Entrance is SGD3 (adults)/SGD2 (kids)

TIGER AIRWAYS FLIES TO SINGAPORE FROM AUSTRALIA, CHINA, INDONESIA, THE PHILIPPINES, THAILAND AND VIETNAM. BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AT www.TIGERAIRWAYS.COM

the road to Monkey Mia

Whether it’s the year-end holidays or just a weekend away from harried city life, Emily Sharland recommends a two-day drive from Perth to Monkey Mia

There’s red dirt and magnificent rock to your right, while white sand and tranquil blue waters beckon to your left. A road trip through Western Australia is a journey through nature’s wonders.

Midway up the Western Australian coastline, Monkey Mia is a must-see destination for nature lovers. A peaceful getaway nestled in the midst of the Shark Bay World Heritage Area and its friendly dolphins make for an enchanting experience.

It is only when visiting by road that you realise there is much culture, history, nature and adventure to discover along the way to the dolphins of Western Australia’s Coral Coast. The region is blessed with sunshine throughout most of the year, and springtime (September to end November) is the ideal time to make this road trip, offering diverse flora and fauna along the journey through a landscape brimming with breathtaking colours and surroundings.

If you live in a city, you are likely to be bowled over by such a vast area of untouched land and natural beauty. The trip is long, and at times you’ll feel like the only explorer in the world. However, go prepared. Driving directly from Perth to Monkey Mia will take about nine hours. Be sure to pack your car with plenty of fuel, a selection of clothes for all weather (it can get breezy at night), snacks, lots of water, some great music, and a camera.

Day One

The voyage from the modern city of Perth takes you northward through agricultural countryside – green pastures for miles set to the backdrop of the dense bushland of Western Australia.

About four hours up, take a detour to the Pinnacles, east of Cervantes. Set in the Nambung National Park, the Pinnacles make an astounding landscape of stark limestone statues. Breaking through the dense bushland is this golden expanse of striking statues that cast captivating shadows across the land. The formations embody over 30,000 years of history. These formations range from just a few centimetres to four metres tall.

Heading back to the main road, stop at Cervantes, a town famous for rock lobster. Experience a taste of the local catch of the day at this small fishing town. Take a walk by the sea and see if you might spot a sociable sea lion or two.

Back on the highway, get a first-hand experience of Western Australia’s Coral Coast. Often forgotten is Dongara, a town filled with a rich community history and a spread of wildflowers that appear to literally dance with the soft breeze from June to October.

To fully enjoy your drive to Monkey Mia, set aside two days so you can stop off at the many attractions on the way. Geraldton is the halfway mark between Perth and Monkey Mia and the ideal place to stay for the night.

The town offers all the best elements of Australian culture like a good old ice-cold beer and some serious socialising. There are also great yet affordable accommodation options like Geraldton Foreshore Backpackers so you can save your money for attractions, tours and fabulous food in Monkey Mia. The place is clean, modern and with many on-site facilities, so a good night’s rest is guaranteed for a long day’s drive ahead.

Day Two

Rise up feeling bright and fresh the next morning and continue your journey to Monkey Mia. Don’t forget to refuel your car and stock up on snacks from any true Aussie roadhouses along the way.

Today’s drive will be long, winding and intensive but worth it as you arrive in Monkey Mia, a small resort at the northern tip of the Peron Peninsula.

The relaxed vibe of Monkey Mia is unlike anything you’ve ever experienced and you’ll get 100% of it at Monkey Mia Resort which is the only accommodation here and really the only “choice” you have. Not that you are likely to argue with the stunning blue skies, pure white beach and sparkling waters at Dolphin Beach.

This place has a community of its own, one so friendly you will feel like you have known these people your whole life. Get advice from any of the staff: tour guides, volunteer environment workers or shopkeepers – they are the experts of the land and location.

The obvious highlight of this trip are the dolphins. The best time to view these wonderful creatures is early in the morning, and the 7.30am walk to the jetty is more than worth the early rise. Schools of dolphins and their young greet you, waving their fins, smiling and dancing in the water. While you stand in ankle-deep water, these friendly creatures will swim right up to you.

The story has it that in 1964 a woman who camped at that spot began feeding the bottlenose dolphins. The dolphins enjoyed her contact so much they came back several times a day and have done so since! Today, these “greeters” include 300 dolphins, as well as stingrays and dugongs.

Monkey Mia is very much an all-inclusive holiday – you can chill out at your beachfront villa, toss some sausages on the BBQ, take a walk along the Monkey Mia trail before dinner. It’s a great getaway for a long weekend – one that you will come back to again and again.

WHERE TO STAY

■ MONKEY MIA Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort Monkey Mia Road tel: 1800 653 611 website: www.monkeymia.com.au

■ GERALDTON Geraldton Foreshore Backpackers 172 Marine Tce tel: +61 (0)8 9921 3275

WHERE TO STOP

■ Cervantes Pinnacles Drive, via Nambung National Park tel: +61 (0)8 9652 7043 Northampton (near Geraldton) Smiffy’s Shell Roadhouse (for food and fuel) tel: +61 (0)8 9934 1106

CAR HIRE

■ Shark Bay Car Hire tel: +61 (0)8 9948 3032 www.carhire.net.au

TRAVEL DISTANCES BY CAR

• Perth to Cervantes: 2 hours
• Cervantes to Dongara: 1.5 hours
• Dongara to Geraldton: 45 minutes
• Geraldton to Monkey Mia: 4.5 hours

5 MUST-DOS

■ Discover the delightful dolphins at a daily dolphin feed

■ Cruise through Shark Bay to see the mysterious dugong

■ Learn the heritage of the land in an Aboriginal cultural walk

■ Observe the sparkling constellations above in an astronomy tour

■ Relax, lap up the sun and make the most of the picturesque location!

TIGER AIRWAYS FLIES DAILY BETWEEN SINGAPORE AND PERTH, AND BETWEEN MELBOURNE AND PERTH STARTING 1 DEC. AUSTRALIAN DOMESTIC FLIGHTS ARE SUBJECT TO REGULATORY APPROVAL. BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AT www.TIGERAIRWAYS.COM

Party Island

The Laanta Lanta Festival is the best time to take a weekend break to this idyllic island known as Koh Lanta Yai, just an hour from Phuket or Krabi, says Kerrie Hall. Photography by James Welch

The magic of Koh Lanta Yai, an island in southern Krabi province, lies in its unique, diverse and harmonious mix of Muslims, Buddhists, Chinese and Urak Lawoi or sea gypsies. The Urak Lawoi is considered to be one of Thailand’s few remaining hunter-gather groups. Despite the loss of traditional territory and the pressures of a modern world, Koh Lanta’s sea gypsies continue to maintain a cultural heritage with their own language – a Malayo-Polynesian dialect – and traditions unique to southern Thailand.

A Well-Protected Isle

Koh Lanta’s local cultures and stunning natural environment so impressed the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP), who came to assist after the 2004 tsunami, that a plan was instigated the following year to develop the 30km-long and 6km-wide island in a sustainable, eco-friendly, tourism-smart, culturally-sensitive way.

A partnership of local organisations would focus on the preservation of Koh Lanta’s cultural heritage, to catalogue and study indigenous knowledge, including traditional ways of life, native arts, heritage, food and culture. Special attention was to be paid to knowledge that promotes livelihoods in harmony with nature.

Popular with tourists, Koh Lanta attracts growing numbers of global visitors and Thais from other regions of the country, some of whom never leave, adding further to the cultural mix.

The island is divided in two by a mountain range, with most tourism located on the sandy east coast beaches, blending with Lanta’s indigenous fishing communities who live on the fringe of a protected national park practicing sustainable crafts now five centuries old.

Festival Time

Once a merchant’s hub on the silk route between China and India, the historical port of Lanta Old Town is now home to the Chinese community, along with Muslim families and a sea gypsy village.

Host to the annual Laanta Lanta Festival to be held in March 2008, the old town on the west coast will come alive with festivities over three days, in celebration of the islands’ multicultural heritage and a lifestyle that has changed little in the last 100 years. The festival is known to move location around the island from one year to the next, but Old Town is a favoured, dramatic venue.

Laanta Lanta Festival is a melting pot of ethnic song, dance, food, art, fun and games. A sleepy dockside town of century-aged Chinese shop houses overlooking stunning Phang Nga Bay, antique-style lamp posts and a fusion of bright flower pots line the streets of Lanta Old Town. Yawning cats disappear with the heat of the day and late afternoon brings out the throngs who have travelled from afar for this yearly party.

Displays of muscle, camaderie, deftness and speed are put to the test with multi-ethnic games in the last of the day’s rays. Village men test their strength against their neighbours on tug-of-war rope teams. Veiled women compete with friends in rice-husking and coconut-shelling competitions. Sea gypsies share bows in ancient archery tournaments. At sundown, a starlit seaside explodes in a fusion of music, dancing and fireworks announcing the carnival to follow.

Comparable to world music festivals in major destinations, Lanta rocks with rong ngeng – gypsy folk music only performed at ceremonies and organised events. Violins, chanting, beating drums, song and ritual dance emanate from the main stage while contemporary jazz plays over on the beachfront and a reggae band draws dreadlocks over at the lighthouse stage. Other acts from around Thailand also perform here.

Meanwhile, down at Hammock House, Muay Thai boxing champions are at it in the street while foreign visitors sip cocktails at a sidewalk cafe.

A few doors along, DJs scratch vinyl at Mango Bar – in step with a ceremonial procession of costumed kids parading tinsel-trimmed umbrellas. Local resorts add to the occasion, serving chefs’ specials beside colourful stalls selling southern cuisine of traditional recipes.

The festival marketplace proffers handicraft wares of batik, beaded jewellery, paintings, funky clothes and basketry. Hammock House on the main street beckons with handwoven hammocks from the Mlabri tribe in northern Thailand. Cultural booths demonstrate traditional arts, including Pa-the, traditional Muslim cloth-weaving and Toi-pa-nun, a handicraft made from Toi leaves.

Protection for a safe and happy event is sought by the Urak Lawoi ritual of casting bad spirits out to sea at an ancient boat-floating ceremony. Attracting thousands of visitors a year, Lanta Festival welcomes all to this “United Nations” celebration of life. Daytime admission is free with a small charge at night to cover concert costs.

Laanta Lanta Festival 2008 will be held in March. For more information on Koh Lanta, visit www.lantainfo.net or www.kolanta.net.

Meanwhile, down at Hammock House, Muay Thai boxing champions are at it in the street while foreign visitors sip cocktails at a sidewalk cafe.

A few doors along, DJs scratch vinyl at Mango Bar – in step with a ceremonial procession of costumed kids parading tinsel-trimmed umbrellas. Local resorts add to the occasion, serving chefs’ specials beside colourful stalls selling southern cuisine of traditional recipes.

The festival marketplace proffers handicraft wares of batik, beaded jewellery, paintings, funky clothes and basketry. Hammock House on the main street beckons with handwoven hammocks from the Mlabri tribe in northern Thailand. Cultural booths demonstrate traditional arts, including Pa-the, traditional Muslim cloth-weaving and Toi-pa-nun, a handicraft made from Toi leaves.

Protection for a safe and happy event is sought by the Urak Lawoi ritual of casting bad spirits out to sea at an ancient boat-floating ceremony. Attracting thousands of visitors a year, Lanta Festival welcomes all to this “United Nations” celebration of life. Daytime admission is free with a small charge at night to cover concert costs.

Laanta Lanta Festival 2008 will be held in March. For more information on Koh Lanta, visit www.lantainfo.net or www.kolanta.net.

Getting There

You can get to Koh Lanta from either Krabi or Phuket by mini-van, or by ferry. Public passenger ferries run between November and May from Krabi Town’s Tharua Pier (8am and 1pm) and Phuket Town’s Rassada Pier at 1pm.

WHERE TO STAY

■ Pimalai Resort and Spa tel: +66 (0)75 607999 website: www.pimalai.com Located in the far south of Lanta near the national park, Pimalai villas are set beachside in superb native gardens. Sufficiently self-contained with spa, pool and fine dining, resort staff are also keen to share their knowledge of the area and arrange great day trips.

■ Costa Lanta tel: +66 (0)2 662 3550 website: www.costalanta.com Renowned for unique architectural design, Costa Lanta has a back-to-nature approach to the resort, and offers some of the island’s best cuisine and cocktails.

■ Moonlight Bay Resort tel: +66 (0)75 662590 website: www.moonlight-resort.com Set by a small river facing the sea, the contemporary cottage resort now boasts a boutique aroma spa.

■ Mango House tel: +66 (0)75 697181 website: www.kolanta.net/southerlantaresort.htm A unique guesthouse located on the east coast in Lanta Old Town, the studio villas are historic Thai fisherman’s homes built on stilts over the sea.

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