Tiger Tales

Shopping: Shopping The Walk

 

Chiang Mai Walking Street attracts thousands every weekend to the market, with odd things to buy and odder things to experience. Oliver Benjamin and his camera take a stroll.

Walking was not always just a form of recreation – it used to be the only way to get around. Strolling around a lively and charming neighbourhood allows you a glimpse into fascinating details that are hard to see when you’re driving.

This is a fact not lost on the citizens of Chiang Mai, the northern capital of Thailand. To help protect the village-like atmosphere of the city, the government initiated a weekly “walking street” four years ago, in which traffic is blocked off on two main streets on Sundays so an open air market can be held.

On these days, life slows down to a leisurely shuffle, local artists display tokens of their genius, and a fortune is exchanged in products, smiles as well as friendly greetings. At least 50,000 visitors show up each Sunday and spend about THB40 million (SGD1.6 million) in just a few hours.

SHOP ON THE STREET

The Chiang Mai Walking Street must be one of the most pleasant and unusual shopping experiences in all of Asia. Cobbled avenues and impromptu music acts bring to mind a lively Mediterranean promenade, while the exotic items belie a mix of contemporary art, modern kitsch and local tribal handiwork.

A university town, Chiang Mai not only boasts a supply of creative young artists, but is also close to many of the hill tribe villages and their artistic traditions. It’s not unusual to see hip designer handbags on sale fashioned crafted from old hill tribe weavings, or an Akha girl in full costume dancing à la Britney Spears to Thai pop music in exchange for tips.

Foreigners sometimes even jump into the mix as well. A band calling themselves “Los del Titicaca” recently performed Spanish versions of ’70s rock songs on congas and castanets.

MUST-BUYS

Candles carved from soap
Handmade teddy bears
Thai musical instruments
Crepe flower fairy lights
Wood and canvas lamps
Hill tribe textiled clothing and accessories
Semi-precious jewellery
Hand-crafted novelty dolls
Herbal soaps
Handmade dog clothing
Sa paper productsw
Thai music CDs
Wooden boxes
Wall paintings ÜKitchenware

SIGHTS, SCENES AND SOUNDS

One of the most eye-catching stalls is the one that sells clothing for dogs. When the evening cools down, a posh pup can be seen sporting his little hat and playboy necktie.

Nearby, a smiling woman sells “Zombie Dolls” of her own creation. They are sort of cute in their own creepy kind of way, but the bulgy eyes and manic grin might even frighten actual zombies themselves!

A few blocks away, an entire portion of one street has become known as the “Art Walk” as the centre lane is filled with all sorts of decorative wall art. A group of students peddle paint-by-numbers designs while a Japanese painter sets up temporary shop outside a cafe and advertises “Free Portraits.”

The aforementioned group “Los del Titicaca” has drawn a crowd. After half an hour, they have earned no more than THB50 (SGD2.10). Ah, cruel capitalism.

And yet, this is part of what makes the Walking Street so special – it is a purely demand-driven concern. Unlike many other markets in which the same products can be sold for years without change, this one is fluid and creative, and wholly dependent on the caprice of the shopper. If no one buys your product or appreciates your act, you either go back to the drawing board or bow out and let someone else have a go.

The municipality requires that all products must be produced locally, which is why most goods come straight from the producers and are cheaper than anywhere else. All this ensures that the Walking Street feels new and exciting each week. One could call it a giant flea market, but one in which fleas are sifted out in favour of uncommon butterflies.

AMBLING AMBIENCE

The atmosphere at the Walking Street is just as colourful as its commerce. Most notably, this particular area of Chiang Mai is replete with gorgeous Buddhist temples, all of which add to the serene-but-sensational ambience.

Despite the emphasis on immateriality in Buddhist doctrine, it is accommodating enough to allow sellers’ stalls to spill over onto temple grounds. In fact, a significant portion of the items for sale employs spiritual iconography – paintings of the Buddha and revered monks, lucky amulets and even some fanciful Buddha jigsaw puzzles.

Besides the Buddhists, fortune-tellers ply their trade by reading palms and tarot cards, while groups of Christian evangelicals can be found strumming gospel tunes and handing out free literature, and dreadlocked would-be Rastafarians lounge on mats and flog funky reggae-style jewellery.

For a truly mystical experience, make sure to be on the street at 6pm, when the national anthem is played through loudspeakers and everyone stands perfectly still. The effect is eerie, as thousands stop what they are doing and an unexpected blanket of peace falls over the entire area.

Never fear, as it starts up again after the song is over. If you’re lucky, you might see some oblivious foreigner walking through the frozen crowd, thinking he must have completely lost his mind.

WOKKING THE WALK

Shopping and walking takes energy, but filling up your tank is easy and fun. Gourmet goods are everywhere, including northern Thai favourites such as mango and dried fish salad, stuffed freshwater crabs, “ancient” ice-cream, and... deep-fried insects.

Swallow your fear and sample some delicious crispy crickets and bamboo worms – millions of Thais can’t be wrong! Everything can be washed down with freshly-squeezed tangerine juice, your best defence against the late afternoon heat. Incidentally, your second best defence is the hilarious umbrella hat, available for only THB40 (SGD1.66) and sure to attract giggles. Tiger Tales

Location

The Chiang Mai Walking Street is held on two main roads: Ratchadamnoen Road, which heads west from central Tha Pae Gate; and perpendicular Phra Pokklao Road, which stretches from the Three Kings Monument past Wat Chedi Luang. A few smaller streets jutting off from these main thoroughfares also participate.

For more details, call tel: +66 (2) 250 5500 or email: center@tat.or.th. Short videos of “Los del Titicaca” shows are available at www.chiangmai.co.nr.