Tiger Tales

First-Time Visit:10 Sights To See In Shenzhen

 

While most people think only of great bargains, there are far more rare charms to Shenzhen than just cheap bags, says Justin Mitchell. Photography by James Baquet.

At first glance, this futuristic-looking metropolis of about seven million (officially, or 11 million unofficially!) – may not seem like a typical destination for tourists. Until 25 years ago, Shenzhen was a slumbering fishing village known as a tightly controlled conduit to and from Hong Kong.

After making the decree that “to get rich is glorious”, the late Chinese premiere Deng Xiaoping declared Shenzhen would be a “Special Economic Zone” – a business and social laboratory combining “capitalist aspects with Chinese socialist characteristics”. Since then, Shenzhen has become a magnet for young fortune-seeking immigrants who flock from all over China in search of a new stake in the 21st century.

And the tourists have followed. Besides world-class golf and dining, shopping and a unique theme park, Shenzhen also offers soothing parks, historic temples and a great experience with its people.

1 DAMEISHA AND XIAOMEISHA

Yantian district, about an hour by taxi from Luohu district One free (Dameisha) and one which requires a RMB20 (SGD4) entry fee (Xiaomeisha), both these beaches are best enjoyed during the summer months. Both are in Dameisha town, which sports several three-star hotels, tasty seafood and pigeon restaurants for which the area is known.

Due to its free admission, Dameisha is the more crowded of the two. Notable for five enormous abstract sculptures, it is also closer to the hotels and dining spots.

For thrill-seekers, paragliding is available at RMB120 (SGD24) for a 10-minute flight. If you crave solitude on a pristine beach, it’s worth the RMB20 (SGD4) for Xiaomeisha.

2 HONG FA TEMPLE

Xian Hu (Fairy Lake), Luohu district (tel: +86 (755) 2573 8430). Open daily from 7am to 10pm. Admission fee: RMB20 (SGD3.95)

Though the temple’s legend says that a fairy came down to swim at the nearby Xian Hu (“Fairy Lake”), and a monk, entranced by the sight, founded a hermitage there where the temple was later built, the lake itself is man-made and it is clear that the Shenzhen Municipal Government – which is no fairy tale – inspired the creation of the city’s finest Buddhist temple in the 1990s. Hongfa Temple features outstanding architecture and contains a working monastery. Locals and tourists alike flock here to beseech the gods for matters involving finance, health and love, as well as to enjoy the park and lake.

There are small hiking trails, and boats can be rented. The more adventurous can climb the winding road to the top where the temple resides, while couch potatoes may prefer to ride on the inexpensive (RMB2/ SGD0.40) shuttle buses.

The vegetarian restaurant here is pricey by Shenzhen standards, so many visitors pack their own refreshments or buy from the vendors who also sell incense.

3 SHENZHEN ART MUSEUM

Overseas Chinese Town, Nanshan district (tel: +86 (755) 2660 4540). Open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 5.30pm. Admission fee: RMB20 (SGD3.95)

One of Shenzhen’s best-kept secrets is the intriguing exhibits of Chinese (and western) art at the Shenzhen Art Museum. While the museum is centered around a gallery that celebrates He Xiangning, one of China’s best-known 20th century female artists who was deeply steeped in traditional methods and themes, the rest of the 5,000 square metre space often surprises viewers with exhibits from fast-rising artists.

Catalogue information is sometimes spotty, but the ambience, well-lighted spaces and the knowledge that you are seeing something few others in China have glimpsed make it worth the visit. The gift shop, while modest, contains some off-beat ideas for unique souvenirs that you won’t find anywhere else in Shenzhen.

4 SPLENDID CHINA AND CHINA FOLK CULTURE VILLAGE

Overseas Chinese Town, Shennan Boulevard, Nanshan district (tel: +86 (755) 2660 6526). Open daily from 9am to 9pm. Admission fee: RMB120 (SGD23.60)

This is Shenzhen’s best theme park bargain – two theme parks rolled in one! Splendid China has done a nifty job of recreating the entire country in miniature.

No time to hit Beijing to see the Forbidden City? No matter. Here, you can see the two-foot version, along with a mini-Great Wall, the Three Gorges River (before the mighty dam project) and other must-sees that you may not have time to visit with only a few days in southern China.

China Folk Culture Village is the park’s most relaxing and photo-friendly atmosphere. A winding “river” (complete with the ethnic villagers waving from rafts), an elaborate and authentic Tibetan monastery, the chance to dress up like Genghis Khan astride a steed, plus an educational look at the country’s 56 ethnic minority groups make it an afternoon to remember. Don’t miss the Mongolian horsemen warrior spectacle playing every afternoon in the park’s arena.

5 LIANHUA MOUNTAIN PARK

Futian district. Open Monday to Friday from 8am to 10pm.

Free admission Lianhua Mountain Park (or “Lotus Mountain Park”) is Shenzhen’s version of New York’s Central Park, minus the horse carriages, zoo, and Woody Allen movie shooting in the far corner.

Located behind the cavernous city hall in the Futian district, this is a true oasis with shade trees, paved hiking paths, rolling hills of green grass and a relaxing lake for boating or just plain people-watching.

For refreshments, there’s a charming little tea house, as well as ice-cream and soft drink vendors. Despite its enormity, Lianhua Mountain Park is usually teeming with locals desperate for a break from the urban grind. At the centre is a 106-metre-high hill with a long, winding hiking path. At the top sits an enormous Socialist Realism-style bronze statue of Deng Xiaoping striding confidently into the future.

6 MINSK WORLD

Shatoujiao,Yantian district (tel: +86 (755) 2535 5333). Open daily from 9am to 9pm. Admission fee: RMB110 (SGD21.65)

How often does one get the opportunity to clamber around a former Soviet aircraft carrier? Short of enlisting in the Russian navy, this theme park centred around the Minsk – named after the capital of Belarus – is a unique chance.

The Minsk’s labyrinth of corridors and quarters contain mini-museums featuring Soviet-era (and some from the Chinese era of the ’70s) propaganda posters, uniforms, photos, videos and military paraphernalia.

Before boarding the behemoth, visitors can test their grenade-throwing skills and marksmanship at arcades or simply get up close and personal with a MIG-21 jet.

In the afternoon, watch a military drill and dance display set to the rousing beat of “Theme from the River Kwai” (“Colonel Bogey’s March”) featuring pistol-packing female contortionists in skin-tight imitation Spetznaz (Russian special forces) uniforms.

7 HAKKA FOLK CUSTOM MUSEUM AND DAPENG FORTRESS

Pencheng Village, Dapeng Town, Longgang District. Open daily from 9am to 10pm Both located about an hour’s drive east of Shenzhen’s Luohu District, these impressive rustic sites give you a taste of the area’s past.

The Dapeng Fortress was built 600 years ago as protection against both Chinese and Japanese pirates, but later became known for another attack by the British in September 1839 in an early battle of the Opium Wars. On both sides of the narrow stone streets that wind through the fortress are old homes which formerly housed the fort’s officers.

In the Hakka museum, located in the same area as Dapeng Fortress, you’ll get to see one of the walled “cities” of the Hakkas, one of China’s best-known minorities.

The mammoth stone and brick wall encloses a honeycomb of concentric circular homes. Some of the old homes still contain tools, furniture (and occasional shoes!) left behind from the Qing Dynasty. Ask your hotel concierge for directions to get there.

8 MISSIONS HILLS GOLF CLUB

Guanian Town, Bao’an district (tel: +86 (755) 2802 0888, website: www.missionhillsgroups.com) Ten celebrity golfer-designed courses covering 10 square kilometres, its 180 holes have given Mission Hills a place of pride in The Guinness World Records as the world’s top golf course.

Besides golf, the country club features 51 tennis courts, China’s largest toy castle for kids, and sports ranging from lawn-bowling to ping-pong, squash, basketball and cycling. At the heart sits the luxurious Mission Hills Resort surrounded by elegant residences.

While you’re visiting, take some time to unwind in the Mission Hills Spa or La Quinta Spa, and indulge in creature comforts offered at the best country club in Asia.

9 XILI LAKE RESORT

Lake Holiday Resort, Nanshan district (tel: +86 (755) 2662 6888) Only about 10 kilometres away from central Shenzhen and popular tourist destinations such as Window of the World, Xili Lake is a popular place to spend a relaxing afternoon or the night at the three-star Xili Hotel (rates from RMB380 or SGD74.85). Stroll around the 1,280 metre pathway encircling the lake and soak up the sights and smells of the magnificent foliage, trees and flowers.

It is also a perfect place for boating, picnics and fishing. Golf, bowling and tennis are also available. Xili Pagoda and the Qilin Hill pavilion are two unique ways to view the resort’s panoramic vista from lofty heights.

10 HONG SHU LIAN PARK

Nanshen district. Open daily from 8am to 10pm Hong Shu Lin Park or Mangrove Park offers a chance to enjoy rare birds (yes, it’s also a bird sanctuary) and a seaside promenade with a view of Hong Kong across the water.

This coastal oasis has acres of manicured grass, palm and mangrove trees and – on weekends – flocks of wedding couples with photo crews documenting their nuptials.

Less commercial than Lianhua Park with few vendors and no boats or restaurants, it’s still a wonderful venue to bring a picnic lunch and unwind for a few hours. Tiger Tales

DOS AND DON’TS

• DO: Travel by the newly built metro transit train, buses and taxis, but be wary of taxi drivers who try to take a long route for an otherwise short trip or to pretend to get “lost”.
• DO: Have patience and a healthy sense of humor, especially if you don’t speak Chinese.
• DO: Watch your pockets and purses. Pickpockets can be a problem, especially in the teeming shopping areas.
• DO: Expect to pay higher prices. There is no “foreigner surcharge”, but it’s assumed that you can pay more just because you are not a local.
• DON’T: Tip. No one expects it and they are startled if a tip is offered.
• DON’T: Expect people, especially cab drivers, service staff, hotel employees or policemen to speak English. Get addresses or directions written in Chinese and carry a phrase book.
• DON’T: Expect every store to take a credit card and be prepared for a rather lengthy process of verification if one does. Cash is still the norm.

TIGER AIRWAYS FLIES BETWEEN SHENZHEN AND SINGAPORE THREE DAYS A WEEK. BOOK YOUR FLIGHTS AT www.TIGERAIRWAYS.COM.