Tiger Tales

Discovery: Old World Charm

 

If there is one city in Vietnam that will surely steal your heart, it must be Hoi An, says Samantha Coomber. Photography by Deanna Ng.

I have a complaint to make about Hoi An. And that is, even after six visits, there never seems to be enough time to sample all that this city can offer.

There’s a lot to see and do: cultural sights and activities, shopping, fittings at the tailors, sensational local cuisine, or chilling out in atmospheric cafes. Not to mention boat trips along the river, relaxing on the beach – even Vietnam’s greatest Cham temple site, ancient My Son, 40 kilometres further south. Bring an extra suitcase, your digital camera, and make sure you have an understanding boss.

SO MUCH TO SEE

Formerly known as Faifo, the historic riverside town was a major “Silk Road” trading port from the 16th to 19th centuries. Today, Hoi An is exceptionally well-preserved, escaping the ravages of weather and wars. It is the only Vietnamese commercial port remaining from the medieval era and one of the oldest towns in Southeast Asia; no wonder Hoi An was declared a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1999.

MEMORY LANES

This ancient quarter consists of three streets running horizontal to the Thu Bon River: Tran Phu, Nguyen Thai Hoc and riverside Bach Dang, plus the oldest street – Le Loi – running vertical.

A distinctly antiquated air permeates, with narrow streets comprising two-storey, wooden-fronted shophouses, topped with ying yang tiled roofs. Most of Hoi An’s beautifully intact monuments and attractions are concentrated here – fortunately, within walking distance – characterised by an exotic blend of Vietnamese, European, Chinese and Japanese architectural influences, inherited from immigrant sea traders who settled.

These include 200-year-old Chinese Merchant Houses (many still inhabited), such as Tan Ky House (101 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street) and nearby Diep Dong Nguyen House, at Number 80; and gaudy Assembly Halls (ethnic Chinese civic centres and places of worship) such as Phuoc Kien Assembly Hall (46 Tran Phu Street).

Colourful pagodas and temples include 17th century Quan Cong Temple (corner of Nguyen Hue and Tran Phu streets), while Hoi An’s most revered site (and official emblem) is the 17th century Japanese Covered Bridge (west of Tran Phu Street), a covered iron wood structure spanning a creek.

The French too left their mark during the Indochina era; European architectural influences are found around town. Eastwards along the river, Phan Boi Chau Street still has an unmistakable French flavour, with low-rise, yellow-washed villas and bright blue shutters.

CUSTOMS AND CRAFTS

The town is akin to a living museum: eat, drink, shop and sleep alongside locals living here. Numerous craft workshops showcase regional traditional crafts, and family-run tailor shops run up made-to-measure silk clothes in no time – at ridiculously low prices.

If you’re lucky, your visit may coincide with Full Moon Night – celebrated every month on the 14th day of the lunar calendar, an important time for Buddhists. For this one night only, Hoi An’s traditional charm is accentuated with motorised vehicles, cultural performances and games performed in the streets – illuminated by a multitude of silk lanterns hung over balconies.

CHIll OUT

Hoi An is about human encounters as it is about ancient vestiges. If tailor shops and sightseeing sound like too much hard work, you’ll be happy to learn Hoi An is probably Vietnam’s favourite chill-out zone – a place where one cup of Ca Phe stretches for hours as you watch the world languidly pass by.

Sweet sanctuaries like Hai Scout Café (98 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street) lend a distinctly continental flavour, serving up great frothy cappuccinos and freshly baked muffins – perfect with a good book.

Enjoy a boat trip and watch life along the river (sampans can be hired along the waterfront), or cycle to Cua Dai Beach, four kilometres east of town. For a small price, beach hawkers can cook freshly-caught seafood right in front of you as you laze on a deck chair.

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

Which brings me to one of Hoi An’s biggest treats – the local cuisine.

Proximity to the sea and a largely fishing community mean plenty of fresh fish and seafood. Delicacies like steamed fish in lemon and ginger wrapped in banana leaf are best sampled along the photogenic Bach Dang Street; great for catching riverside comings and goings as well as the local market in the daytime, but lovely at night, with wall-to-wall cafes and restaurants, romantically aglow with multi-coloured lanterns.

Local specialities Cau Lao (thick noodles, fresh greens and roasted pork slivers) and White Rose (dumplings with shrimp meat filling) should not be missed; small, family-run eateries, Miss Ly Cafeteria 22 (22 Nguyen Hue Street) and Yellow River Restaurant (Hoang Ha, at 38 Tran Phu Street) serve the best.

For something more upmarket, stunning restaurants utilising picturesque colonial or traditional Asian-style buildings, set along quieter stretches of the river, including the refined Brothers Café (27-29 Phan Boi Chau Street, tel: +84 (510) 923 012) and the Nam Long Restaurant (103 Cua Dai Street, tel: +84 (510) 923 723); both set in riverside gardens.

CULIARY ARTS

Want to learn how it is all done? Cookery schools have recently sprung up, including one at Hong Phuc Restaurant (86 Bach Dang Street, tel: +84 (510) 862 567) and Hai Scout Café, (98 Nguyen Thai Hoc Street, tel: +84 (510) 863 210, website: www.visithoian. com), operating cookery classes daily.

In the countryside, Australian-run Red Bridge Bar Restaurant and Cooking School (Thon 4, Cam Thanh, tel: +84 (510) 933 222, website: www.visithoian.com) operates daily morning Cooking Tours just outside Hoi An.

These commence with a market visit, then a leisurely boat ride to their “school” – an open-air, bamboo hut by the river.

Here, as the others, chefs teach how to cook regional dishes – sample these at lunch in Red Bridge’s waterfront, contemporary restaurant before the boat trip back.

SLEEP ON IT

Hoi An’s old world charm could not be any better encapsulated than at Hoi An Riverside Resort (Cua Dai Road, tel: +84 (510) 864 800; website: www.hoianriverresort.com), an exquisite boutique hotel set in Balinese-style gardens along tranquil river banks. The 60 Japanese/Vietnamese-inspired rooms have timbered floors and private balconies looking out on the river and paddy fields; prices start from USD129 (SGD203.45).

Four-star Palm Garden Resort (Tan My Block, Cua Dai Beach, tel: +84 (510) 927 927, website: www.palmgardenresort.com) has airy rooms, bungalows and villa suites (from USD90/SGD142), featuring a magnificent swimming pool set in landscaped gardens sloping down to a private beach. For a treat, make a date at the Qi Hoi An Salon and Spa.

Good value, villa-style Phu Trinh II Hotel (488 Cua Dai Road, tel: +84 (510) 923 923, website: www.phutrinhotels.com) has rooms from USD20 (SGD35.55). Rates include buffet breakfast in a rustic restaurant, surrounded by a lotus pond and pool. Tiger Tales

TICKETS, ANYONE?

To gain access to Hoi An’s attractions in the historic quarter, all you have to do is purchase a VnD75,000 (SGD7.40) ticket. This covers five major sites: Japanese Bridge or the Quan Cong Temple; one of the three Assembly Halls; one of the four Merchant Houses; a handicraft workshop; and one of three museums. For other sites, you must buy an extra ticket, but some don’t require tickets. Funds are then ploughed back into the city’s kitty for the preservation and upkeep of Old Hoi An.