Tiger Tales

Culture: Shall We Dance?

 

Jennifer Grimwade stumbles upon Hanoians’ fascination with ballroom dancing. Photography by Peter Scott.

Ambling around the beautiful Lake of the Restored Sword in central Hanoi, shaded by drooping willow trees, one would expect to see the typical Asian red-coloured Sunbeam Bridge leading to the Temple of the Jade Mound. It’s not surprising to watch the Vietnamese making elegant tai chi movements, an ancient tradition here.

But I am more astounded to see couples literally practising their ballroom dancing steps. Coincidentally, I read author Edgar Snow’s description of his 1930 visit to Hanoi which was published in the New York Sun:

“The Hotel Metropole is, I believe, the only public place with society dance in Hanoi (if you exclude the sidewalk cafes). Here, you see French army officers, the wives of French officials, and a few brilliant and seductively gowned Congais, or Eurasians, in the arms of men who are clearly not their husbands.

“On Saturday nights, when dancing lasts until 2am, it even partakes of a breathless abandon. Everybody drinks too much but does not become obnoxious. The officers grow warm but seem happy in army uniforms which, it appears, they wear for all occasions. The French ladies are charmingly French in gowns that are completely decolotees.”

The plot thickens, so I conscientiously refer to my guidebooks, and draw a blank. Always a positive sign, as I know I am off the tourist trail – and now, I am keener than ever to go dancing.

PUT ON YOUR DANCING SHOES

The Metropole concierge doesn’t blink when I consult him. I just have to wait for Saturday night, and choose my venue.

When my partner and I arrive at the dance hall behind the Nam De Hotel at 9pm, the tables are full. The walls are royally lined with red velvet, and glowing chandeliers hang from the ornate ceiling. Countless couples are waltzing to “Somewhere My Love”.

Graham Greene wrote in 1955, in The Quiet American: “Phuong had kept us a table at the edge of the dance floor and the orchestra was playing... and I saw Phuong for a moment as I had seen her first, dancing past my table at the Grande Monde in a white ball-dress...”

Half a century later, the Vietnamese are still dancing in elegant ball gowns that take your breath away. Tulle is flouncing, lame is glittering, silks are shimmering and slinky black dresses are hugging petite bodies.

No wonder Vietnamese dressmakers are always kept busy!

Upon closer inspection, they are not all tottering on stilettos; some are dancing in Reeboks, and wearing jeans. Age is irrelevant.

The music and dance is just as eclectic. The waltz is followed by the graceful White Flower Dance, also known as the Champa Dance, a traditional Buddhist dance with elegant moves like tai chi.

Immediately afterwards, all the couples are shuffling – not dancing – to throbbing disco beats under strobe lights. Then they sing along to the disco hit, “Who Let The Dogs Out?”. Ironic, seeing that dog is often on the menu in this country...

HIRED TO DANCE

My partner and I are not professionally trained ballroom dancers, and fare far better during a disco number.

A “servant” comes up and asks me to dance. I’m nervous and my ballroom dancing is worse than ever, for at this stage, I am not aware that the club employs white-shirted “servants” to dance with the ladies!

But I do know to sit down fast for the next dance, the tango. How very fortunate, for now everyone is really beginning to strut their stuff! I don’t recall seeing anyone dance the tango this well in Buenos Aires.

At the end of each dance, couples sit down, sip Coke or tea, and as soon as the music starts, they are back on the floor with the same partner. We’re told that here, ladies can come alone and dance with the ever-ready “servants”.

The scene is different again at Cosmos Up and Down Bar in Hanoi. This is a family evening: couples dressed to the nines, and waltz alongside a man dancing with a toddler in his arms.

I can’t take my eyes off a 10-year-old boy who is not only doing the twist in style, but waltzes like a prince and dances the tango as well as an Argentinian.

The dancing finishes well before 2am in the morning. But the end of the night is certainly a memorable sight, as the couples start making their way out.

Handsomely-suited men hop on their motorbikes, while the lovely ladies gather up their full-layered long beaded chiffon skirts, and with total aplomb and nonchalance, sit side-saddle on the backs of the bikes and gracefully waft home. Tiger Tales

tiger airways flies between hanoi and singapore four times a week.

WHERE TO DANCE

• Nam De Hotel Pho Ly Nam, Hanoi Daily at 3.30pm to 6.30pm, 8.30pm to 10.30pm. Best on Saturday and Sunday nights.
• Up and Down Bar Cosmos, Rose Garden 6 Ngoc Khanh Street, Hanoi
• Liberty opposite the new Sheraton Hotel 80 Dong Khoi Street District 1, Ho Chi Minh tudoliberty@saigonnet.vn
• Sofitel Metropole Hotel 15 Ngo Quyen Street, Hanoi www.sofitel-hanoi-vietnam.com